I'll snap a more modern pic.
the gauges aren't too bad.
The boost gauge just needs power for the light, the boost is actually mechanically measured with a small vacuum line run to a point on top of the engine valve cover.
The temp gauge is electrical. It needs power for the lights and gauge. The temp sender is mounted in an aluminum fixture which I spliced into the upper coolant hose. It's ground to a point on the front, above the radiator (needs to be ground or won't return a signal)
The oil pressure gauge uses a brass adapter to attach the pressure sender AND the OEM pressure sender to the same spot (right below the oil filter housing). It takes power for lights and sender too (but not ground in the engine bay)
All 3 gauges are run through the grommet under the dash on the driver's left side. Gotta be careful there as you want to make a hole, but not too big of one, and if you use a drill to make the hole you don't want to cut into the bundle of wires on the other side! I basically put a small hole, then fed a thin steel wire which had the gauge wires going to the sender units under the hood, and pulled that wire through, which pulled the gauge wires through. Also be mindful of running the wires under your feet (up under the dash)...want to make sure you don't kick them, or the pedals hit them as you use them...
Power comes from the fuse box, where you'll use an Add A Splice (like shown). I think they're direction dependent... but you do put a fuse in both holders. One for what you tapped into, and one for what you're running that splice to.
Took me a little on the wiring as I was putting the splice connector to the fuse block in the wrong way... (that's my theory)...but once fixed...gauges work fine. They don't dim or anything. They're always on when the car's on, but since there blue LED's...it's no bother, they'll last the life of the gauge.
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