Extremely rough idle after recharging battery

[Onslow]

In these cold mornings my 2012 OEM battery is not able to do more than a few struggled turns before click-click-click.

I jumped it and took to the parts store for testing. They said it was "pulling" 300 is amps and needed to be 525 or so. They wanted nearly $200 for a new battery but suggested putting it on a charger overnight as they could not determine if the battery was "bad" or simply needing a recharge.

I brought the battery in, charged it, and then connected it back in the car.

The car started immediately (and has been doing so for a couple of days) but the sputtering (especially at idle, intersections, etc) is absolutely crazy.

I'm considering taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning but was wondering if anyone could pass along some insight as to what's going on or if I can address this myself (or at least at an independent shop)?

Many thanks for this wonderful and helpful forum.

 

[cwhaiyan]

In these cold mornings my 2012 OEM battery is not able to do more than a few struggled turns before click-click-click.

I jumped it and took to the parts store for testing. They said it was "pulling" 300 is amps and needed to be 525 or so. They wanted nearly $200 for a new battery but suggested putting it on a charger overnight as they could not determine if the battery was "bad" or simply needing a recharge.

I brought the battery in, charged it, and then connected it back in the car.

The car started immediately (and has been doing so for a couple of days) but the sputtering (especially at idle, intersections, etc) is absolutely crazy.

I'm considering taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning but was wondering if anyone could pass along some insight as to what's going on or if I can address this myself (or at least at an independent shop)?

Many thanks for this wonderful and helpful forum.

Sounds like you need to check the charging system. Maybe a loose connection or corrosion that's keeping the battery from charging fully

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[Onslow]

Took it to the dealer. They cleared the code and then said they couldn't replicate the problem. For some reason they wouldn't take the car out on the road. They told me to toss a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in it.

It's gotten really bad now at stops and especially at slow-speed uphills. Is there a way to escalate this within the Chevy repair org? Any other items to check also appreciated.

Next time - Toyota. I stuck my neck out on this one at time of purchase.

 

[Mike DZ]

It would be helpful if you had the code to help diagnose. It sounds like you have two problems - the battery or charging system and whatever is causing the sputtering.

Given this is a 2012 the battery could be on its way out and the charge is just a temp measure.

You can get a battery test at autozone or other parts store and can also get a scan for a code at autozone or other parts store as well - both for free.

 

[Italianjoe1]

Sounds like when a throttle body is dirty and the battery disconnect resets the learned position. Used to happen in the cobalt world often. Clean the TB and see if it improves.

 

[66roadie]

I would check the battery voltage under load, especially at idle when it's sputtering. Low voltage can cause all kinds of problems electronically.

 

[gnonne]

Not sure of where you live or the miles, but it NEEDS a battery, period. Sam's sells this size for $105.

I also agree with TB cleaning. It isn't the fault of the car that deposits build up over time. The computer gradually compensates for this, but then when you take out the battery it goes back to default settings and runs poorly.

 

[Onslow]

Thanks - definitely time for a new battery. Not sure about the throttle body cleaning (self or shop to do it?) but will look into it.