AndrewGS
Ultimo Hombre
Let me start off by saying that I hold no responsibility for any faults or malfunctions that may be caused by your attempt to perform this modification.
That said, here we go.
What you’ll need:
A 2012-2016 Chevrolet Sonic LT/LTZ/RS.
A set of RPO DRL mirrors from Korea, part numbers 95369908 & 95369909.
A power-fold compatible outside rearview mirror switch from Korea, part number 95328438.
Two terminated leads for adding the turn signal function, part number 13575502 (sold individually).
Ten feet of AWG22 stranded copper wire.
Two AWG16-14 (blue) T-Tap splice connectors.
Two AWG22-18 (red) male tab connectors.
One AWG22-18 (red) butt connector. (Yeah, hahaha.)
A wire stripper.
A wire crimper.
At least three 12” zip ties.
A 10mm socket.
An 8mm socket.
A 7mm socket.
A ratchet and 6” extension.
A small flat-bladed screwdriver.
A medium Phillips screwdriver.
A pair of needle-nose pliers.
Two hands.
Patience.
To start, swap out the mirrors themselves. First, remove the sail panel trim by pulling out on the part of the piece that falls between the door panel and dash and sliding the trim panel upward. Pulling it towards you instead of upward may result in a broken retainer clip tab! (Ask me how I know.)
Make sure both mirrors have eight wires going to them. If you have less than eight it will take new door harnesses to make these mirrors work.
Unplug the mirror electrical connector. Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver you’ll need to pop the little circular cap off of the door panel just below the sail panel trim. Now you’ll have access to all three mirror bolts. These are 10mm bolts. Just pull the bolts, swap mirrors and replace the three bolts. Plug the mirror electrical connector back in. Don’t forget to pop the little circular caps back on the door panel, but leave the sail panel trim off.
Now you can swap the mirror switch itself. You’ll need to remove the driver’s side door panel for that. Use that small flat-bladed screwdriver to pop the bolt covers off behind the door handle and inside the door pull. Now use the 7mm socket on those two bolts behind those covers. You can now pull the door panel off, starting at the front and working your way around the bottom and up the back. Lift the door panel carefully to disengage it from the door.
Disconnect the electrical connector at the mirror switch, unsnap the switch from it’s bezel with your small flat-bladed screwdriver (three retainer tabs), pop the new switch into place and reconnect the electrical connector.
Hang the door panel back onto the door and test your mirrors for function, including power-fold. If the mirror switch works properly you can reattach the door panel in the opposite manner that it came off. You can also replace the sail panel trim in the opposite manner that it came off.
Now comes the fun part, wiring up the turn signals. Firstly, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery using the 8mm socket. Next, remove the knee bolster trim panel under the steering column using the Phillips screwdriver. There are seven (7) screws holding it on despite the picture only showing four. Disconnect the headlamp switch electrical connector. You’ll also need to remove the OBDII connector from this panel using the small flat-bladed screwdriver.
Remove the center console trim on each side of the console.
Driver’s Side
Passenger’s Side
Remove the glove box by opening it, pushing in on the top of each side to lower it, then popping the damper arm off and finally popping the glove box assembly off it’s mount.
Now you’ll need to pull the BCM from it’s hiding spot up under the dash behind the inside fuse block. There are tabs top and bottom that hold it in place, just pop it out of it’s mount and pull it down to access the electrical connectors. Disconnect all seven (7) connectors and remove the BCM to make access easier.
Next, blindly reach up behind the door harness-body harness connector on the driver’s side and remove the foam rubber insulator that surrounds the body harness as shown in this picture.
For the passenger’s side, just separate the seam and disengage one side of the foam rubber insulator to gain access to the rear of the body harness-door harness connector.
Now you can pull the rubber boot off of the door harness at the connector on each side. Be careful and pull it up and over it’s retainer to access the retainer itself. Move the boot out of the way then with your small flat-bladed screwdriver you can push down on the upper clip of the boot retainer and pull it back away from the connector, followed by the lower claw. Move the boot retainer aside.
To disengage the door harness push on the top center of the engagement arm and pull it back, then push it down slightly. The door harness should disengage.
Now you need to pull the body harness-door harness connector into the car to access the back of it. Just squeeze the connector and pull it back into the car. The passenger’s side is a little more difficult due to the foam-rubber insulator.
You now have access to all of the electrical. Notice that on the back of the body harness-door harness connector there is a pin missing in hole number 18.
This is where your terminated leads will go. Note the orientation of the pin and insert it into hole number 18. Use your needle-nose pliers to push it down far enough that the pin is reachable inside the connector. Once you can reach the pin with your needle-nose pliers grab it and pull it into place until it locks.
The BCM connectors you need to focus on are X4 (black) for the passengers side and X5 (brown) for the driver’s side.
Locate the light green/violet wire going to pin number 3 of connector X4 (black) and snap a T-Tap connector on it. Make sure you leave enough room for maneuvering the connector when plugging it back into the BCM.
Locate the light blue/white wire going to pin 2 of connector X5 (brown) and snap a T-Tap connector on it. Make sure you leave enough room for maneuvering the connector when plugging it back into the BCM.
Now, crimp a male tab connector on the bare end of the terminated lead you added to the driver’s side connector. Once the connector is on, fully insert it into the T-Tap you added to BCM connector X5 (brown). Take your piece of AWG22 wire and crimp a male tab on one side of it. Insert the tab into the T-Tap you added to BCM connector X4 (black).
That said, here we go.
What you’ll need:
A 2012-2016 Chevrolet Sonic LT/LTZ/RS.
A set of RPO DRL mirrors from Korea, part numbers 95369908 & 95369909.
A power-fold compatible outside rearview mirror switch from Korea, part number 95328438.
Two terminated leads for adding the turn signal function, part number 13575502 (sold individually).
Ten feet of AWG22 stranded copper wire.
Two AWG16-14 (blue) T-Tap splice connectors.
Two AWG22-18 (red) male tab connectors.
One AWG22-18 (red) butt connector. (Yeah, hahaha.)
A wire stripper.
A wire crimper.
At least three 12” zip ties.
A 10mm socket.
An 8mm socket.
A 7mm socket.
A ratchet and 6” extension.
A small flat-bladed screwdriver.
A medium Phillips screwdriver.
A pair of needle-nose pliers.
Two hands.
Patience.
To start, swap out the mirrors themselves. First, remove the sail panel trim by pulling out on the part of the piece that falls between the door panel and dash and sliding the trim panel upward. Pulling it towards you instead of upward may result in a broken retainer clip tab! (Ask me how I know.)
Make sure both mirrors have eight wires going to them. If you have less than eight it will take new door harnesses to make these mirrors work.
Unplug the mirror electrical connector. Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver you’ll need to pop the little circular cap off of the door panel just below the sail panel trim. Now you’ll have access to all three mirror bolts. These are 10mm bolts. Just pull the bolts, swap mirrors and replace the three bolts. Plug the mirror electrical connector back in. Don’t forget to pop the little circular caps back on the door panel, but leave the sail panel trim off.
Now you can swap the mirror switch itself. You’ll need to remove the driver’s side door panel for that. Use that small flat-bladed screwdriver to pop the bolt covers off behind the door handle and inside the door pull. Now use the 7mm socket on those two bolts behind those covers. You can now pull the door panel off, starting at the front and working your way around the bottom and up the back. Lift the door panel carefully to disengage it from the door.
Disconnect the electrical connector at the mirror switch, unsnap the switch from it’s bezel with your small flat-bladed screwdriver (three retainer tabs), pop the new switch into place and reconnect the electrical connector.
Hang the door panel back onto the door and test your mirrors for function, including power-fold. If the mirror switch works properly you can reattach the door panel in the opposite manner that it came off. You can also replace the sail panel trim in the opposite manner that it came off.
Now comes the fun part, wiring up the turn signals. Firstly, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery using the 8mm socket. Next, remove the knee bolster trim panel under the steering column using the Phillips screwdriver. There are seven (7) screws holding it on despite the picture only showing four. Disconnect the headlamp switch electrical connector. You’ll also need to remove the OBDII connector from this panel using the small flat-bladed screwdriver.
Remove the center console trim on each side of the console.
Driver’s Side
Passenger’s Side
Remove the glove box by opening it, pushing in on the top of each side to lower it, then popping the damper arm off and finally popping the glove box assembly off it’s mount.
Now you’ll need to pull the BCM from it’s hiding spot up under the dash behind the inside fuse block. There are tabs top and bottom that hold it in place, just pop it out of it’s mount and pull it down to access the electrical connectors. Disconnect all seven (7) connectors and remove the BCM to make access easier.
Next, blindly reach up behind the door harness-body harness connector on the driver’s side and remove the foam rubber insulator that surrounds the body harness as shown in this picture.
For the passenger’s side, just separate the seam and disengage one side of the foam rubber insulator to gain access to the rear of the body harness-door harness connector.
Now you can pull the rubber boot off of the door harness at the connector on each side. Be careful and pull it up and over it’s retainer to access the retainer itself. Move the boot out of the way then with your small flat-bladed screwdriver you can push down on the upper clip of the boot retainer and pull it back away from the connector, followed by the lower claw. Move the boot retainer aside.
To disengage the door harness push on the top center of the engagement arm and pull it back, then push it down slightly. The door harness should disengage.
Now you need to pull the body harness-door harness connector into the car to access the back of it. Just squeeze the connector and pull it back into the car. The passenger’s side is a little more difficult due to the foam-rubber insulator.
You now have access to all of the electrical. Notice that on the back of the body harness-door harness connector there is a pin missing in hole number 18.
This is where your terminated leads will go. Note the orientation of the pin and insert it into hole number 18. Use your needle-nose pliers to push it down far enough that the pin is reachable inside the connector. Once you can reach the pin with your needle-nose pliers grab it and pull it into place until it locks.
The BCM connectors you need to focus on are X4 (black) for the passengers side and X5 (brown) for the driver’s side.
Locate the light green/violet wire going to pin number 3 of connector X4 (black) and snap a T-Tap connector on it. Make sure you leave enough room for maneuvering the connector when plugging it back into the BCM.
Locate the light blue/white wire going to pin 2 of connector X5 (brown) and snap a T-Tap connector on it. Make sure you leave enough room for maneuvering the connector when plugging it back into the BCM.
Now, crimp a male tab connector on the bare end of the terminated lead you added to the driver’s side connector. Once the connector is on, fully insert it into the T-Tap you added to BCM connector X5 (brown). Take your piece of AWG22 wire and crimp a male tab on one side of it. Insert the tab into the T-Tap you added to BCM connector X4 (black).
