Maddog
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Can be found here Racer X Fabrication
(I am in no way affiliated with the above company, I'm just a HUGE fan)
GOT to say I am super happy with the RacerX Cold Air Intake, just excellent engineering work, huge difference in pickup and overall performance (casual observation versus stock). It’s a work of art, looks superb and gives the Sonic an awesome sound. If we can get these guys to make a whole car it would be absolutely amazing.
Another great point is that there is no modification to the original components or engine bay. Keep all the old parts and you can easily swap it all back to stock in 10 minutes.
Orientation – Get to know the parts
Original airbox, top comes off with two torx screws on the left and then hinges to the right.
Original intake tube/ MAF sensor, handle with care, its delicate.
Original intake tube down to the turbo intake (and weird plastic chamber)
Dismantling
Remove the electrical connection and the two screws holding the MAF in the intake tube and place it somewhere where it won’t get damaged. Note the orientation of the MAF when you take it out, cell phone pic is useful.
Remove the two torx screws and tilt the airbox cover to the right, unhooks on the right.
Undo the hose clamp for the airbox to intake tube, undo the hose clamp for the intake tube to (?) (weird plastic chamber bend that goes to the turbo) and undo the hose clamp for the plastic chamber bend thing to the turbo.
Should be left with this;
and this;
Next pull off the rubber fitting and hose clamp that the inlet tube fitted into at the turbo.
For the lower part of the airbox its good to know it has one pin at the top right corner (underneath) and two fatter pins that fit into the left side of the engine bay. Pulling the box gently upwards at the top right and then once loose pulling the whole box to the right will remove it. Note: the pins fit into rubber grommets, so they may need a little working.
You should be able to easily pull the box off the inlet at the lower left of the box.
Lower pin fitting
Two engine bay left side pin fittings
The build
RacerX supply everything you need in the kit, two fatter pin fittings and a thinner pin fitting for the lower. Match up the bolts and screws to ensure you know where everything goes.
One captive stud and nut are for the lower pin arm
Match up a spring and flat washer for each bolt, one bolt is longer and there is a plastic spacer piece. The longer bolt goes with one of the fatter pins and the plastic spacer so that the pin sits out further than the back fatter pin.
This way it matches the alignment of the original box pins
Looking at the underneath of the box with the new RacerX frame you can see how the pins match up.
The lower pin arm has the slimmer pin on the end (here I used a dab of Loctite because I have some kind of weird obsessive condition!)
NOTE: Do yourself a huge favor and set the rear left stud into the frame before you get it all in there. Just drop the nut on it and wind it down hand tight so it grips and holds in place. You could set them all in place before you drop the frame in.
Slot the left pins into their grommets first and then lower the frame into place ensuring the upper right bottom pin drops into its grommet.
The K&N air filter goes in facing upwards, so the fins don’t hit the pipes below and the shiny aluminum RacerX box fits right on top.
Snug down the six bolts evenly so the box makes a good seal with the K&N.
The rest of the job is straightforward, hose clamps on, short rubber hose between the box and the inlet tube, longer rubber hose to the turbo. Note the different diameters at the hose ends. Jiggle everything into place before tightening any hose clamps.
Finally, carefully refit the MAF sensor and tighten in to place with the two allen screws provided in the RacerX kit, reconnect the electrical connector to the MAF.
(Working on better sound clips until then https://youtu.be/n8IoiI4KEZI)
But in my opinion, it sounds freakin awesome. There is a noticeable throaty growl when hitting the throttle, and more pronounced turbo hiss when backing off. I’m not talking ‘bag of snakes’ hissing or anything obnoxious. At the traffic lights this kit gives you more of a subtle, “yeah I see you and no this is not stock” message.
Disclaimer
All information based on my personal DIY experience and research, don't blame me if anything goes wrong. General guidance only and I do not accept any liability for loss. Sole responsibility of anyone using this information to, ensure its accuracy with current specifications and regulations, and have a level of competence with the process's involved.
(I am in no way affiliated with the above company, I'm just a HUGE fan)
GOT to say I am super happy with the RacerX Cold Air Intake, just excellent engineering work, huge difference in pickup and overall performance (casual observation versus stock). It’s a work of art, looks superb and gives the Sonic an awesome sound. If we can get these guys to make a whole car it would be absolutely amazing.
Another great point is that there is no modification to the original components or engine bay. Keep all the old parts and you can easily swap it all back to stock in 10 minutes.
Orientation – Get to know the parts
Original airbox, top comes off with two torx screws on the left and then hinges to the right.
Original intake tube/ MAF sensor, handle with care, its delicate.
Original intake tube down to the turbo intake (and weird plastic chamber)
Dismantling
Remove the electrical connection and the two screws holding the MAF in the intake tube and place it somewhere where it won’t get damaged. Note the orientation of the MAF when you take it out, cell phone pic is useful.
Remove the two torx screws and tilt the airbox cover to the right, unhooks on the right.
Undo the hose clamp for the airbox to intake tube, undo the hose clamp for the intake tube to (?) (weird plastic chamber bend that goes to the turbo) and undo the hose clamp for the plastic chamber bend thing to the turbo.
Should be left with this;
and this;
Next pull off the rubber fitting and hose clamp that the inlet tube fitted into at the turbo.
For the lower part of the airbox its good to know it has one pin at the top right corner (underneath) and two fatter pins that fit into the left side of the engine bay. Pulling the box gently upwards at the top right and then once loose pulling the whole box to the right will remove it. Note: the pins fit into rubber grommets, so they may need a little working.
You should be able to easily pull the box off the inlet at the lower left of the box.
Lower pin fitting
Two engine bay left side pin fittings
The build
RacerX supply everything you need in the kit, two fatter pin fittings and a thinner pin fitting for the lower. Match up the bolts and screws to ensure you know where everything goes.
One captive stud and nut are for the lower pin arm
Match up a spring and flat washer for each bolt, one bolt is longer and there is a plastic spacer piece. The longer bolt goes with one of the fatter pins and the plastic spacer so that the pin sits out further than the back fatter pin.
This way it matches the alignment of the original box pins
Looking at the underneath of the box with the new RacerX frame you can see how the pins match up.
The lower pin arm has the slimmer pin on the end (here I used a dab of Loctite because I have some kind of weird obsessive condition!)
NOTE: Do yourself a huge favor and set the rear left stud into the frame before you get it all in there. Just drop the nut on it and wind it down hand tight so it grips and holds in place. You could set them all in place before you drop the frame in.
Slot the left pins into their grommets first and then lower the frame into place ensuring the upper right bottom pin drops into its grommet.
The K&N air filter goes in facing upwards, so the fins don’t hit the pipes below and the shiny aluminum RacerX box fits right on top.
Snug down the six bolts evenly so the box makes a good seal with the K&N.
The rest of the job is straightforward, hose clamps on, short rubber hose between the box and the inlet tube, longer rubber hose to the turbo. Note the different diameters at the hose ends. Jiggle everything into place before tightening any hose clamps.
Finally, carefully refit the MAF sensor and tighten in to place with the two allen screws provided in the RacerX kit, reconnect the electrical connector to the MAF.
(Working on better sound clips until then https://youtu.be/n8IoiI4KEZI)
But in my opinion, it sounds freakin awesome. There is a noticeable throaty growl when hitting the throttle, and more pronounced turbo hiss when backing off. I’m not talking ‘bag of snakes’ hissing or anything obnoxious. At the traffic lights this kit gives you more of a subtle, “yeah I see you and no this is not stock” message.
Disclaimer
All information based on my personal DIY experience and research, don't blame me if anything goes wrong. General guidance only and I do not accept any liability for loss. Sole responsibility of anyone using this information to, ensure its accuracy with current specifications and regulations, and have a level of competence with the process's involved.
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