Danny5
Its over 39000!
Since nobody has documented this yet, I thought I would take some pictures as I installed my new KSpeed 2" drop springs. The entire install took only 3.5 hours, WITH a trip to the autoparts store for a spring compressor.
Things needed:
Flathead Screwdriver
T-40 Torx Screwdriver
15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, and 24mm Sockets
Spring Compressor
Hammer
Jack Stands
Floor Jack
Air tools HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
First, suspend your car and remove the wheels. If you don't have 4 jack stands, start with the front first. This is the more complicated side of the install.
Remove the covers on the wiper arms with a small flathead screwdriver and use a 15mm to remove the nuts. The cowl has 4 plastic clips you should remove with your screwdriver.
This exposes your tophats.
A 24mm nut locates the top of the strut assembly. Remove this nut on both sides.
Remove the top swaybar link with a 19mm wrench and a t-40 Torx driver
Remove the brake line and the ABS sensor assemblies from the strut (yellow arrows) No special tools needed, just pull them out.
The red arrows are the strut to hub bolts. You will need a 21mm and hopefully a good impact wrench to take the nuts off. Once the nuts are off, pound the bolts out with a hammer. Careful you don't damage the threads!
Here is the top of the strut we just removed. I placed one of the hub bolts on it. As you can see, its a pressed-in item, so hence why it needs to be hammered out.
The bolt on top of the strut is also 24mm. I zipped it off with the impact wrench, but if you are using hand tools, this might be a good time to install a spring compressor. The assembly is under a couple inches of pre-load.
Pull the top hat off, and transfer the dust boot and rubber cushions to your new springs.
Bump stops are a necessity to keep you from damaging your struts, but cutting off the bottom third will give you some badly needed travel when lowering your car.
Using a spring compressor, reassemble your struts in the reverse order. We pushed the strut through the fender hole and loosely threaded the top nut. We then located the bottom assembly using a floor jack to move the suspension arm into alignment.
Using your hammer again, gently tap the hub bolts back into place. They don't need to be seated all the way since that will happen when you tighten the nuts into place.
Note I also installed steel swaybar links. You can use Chevy Cobalt front sway links, they are almost an exact fit.
If your strut spins while trying to tighten the top mount, you need more pressure. Give your floor jack a couple of pumps.
Once the front is reassembled, we move to the rear.
The shocks are what keeps the rear end from drooping. You need to remove the shock mount bolts, which are 17mm.
Once the shocks are disconnected, the entire assembly will swing down enough for you to remove the rear springs. Pop them out and transfer the top and bottom spring seats.
Using the floor jack on the torsion beam, we realign the rear-end and bolt the shocks back in. It helps to have someone align the springs as you jack up the rear axle.
Reinstall your rear wheels and take her off the jack stands. Enjoy your new springs! :banana:
