jayrq2o1
New member
Now, a throttle body spacer is quite straightforward I'll admit. Make sure the gaskets don't face each other. Unbolt the throttle body and bolt it back on with the spacer in between right? So there, that's that, but here are some things to take into consideration.
Let's start with what you absolutely, positively need to do this deceptively simple job.
1. 5mm Alan Wrench
2. 9/32 Hex Screwdriver
3. A modicum of patience
4. And if you want to disconnect your throttle body, a way to reset and remove codes. I'm not sure if backup fuse/battery disconnect will work.
It is nearly impossible to access the bottom bolts without removing the charge tube. You can, but only if you like fishing for alan wrenches in your engine bay and are a sadomasochist. It may differ from Sonic to Sonic, but the main charge tube clamp on mine came with 9/32 hex head. It literally fit 9/32 perfectly. It was too small for 8mm, too big for 7mm, and would be rounded with a 5/16".
Also, this may be a result of the PVC dumping oil to the turbo inlet, but its dirty in there.
Use a 5mm allan wrench to remove the bolts. If you can't use your bare hands to break them loose because you're a pathetic weakling (like me), use an extension. A ball end works wonders.
Simple pipe I used to help break the bolts.
If you're wondering if any inserts/sensors/plugs/fittings/nozzles/misters will interfere with the throttle plate, no it won't. Even if the plate were closer to the edge, its direction of rotation and opening ensures it will never touch anything in the spacer.
So, now, just pop it on, no problem right? Well, it isn't that simple. First, take a look at the area. The main harness and engine lift bracket is going to be in the way, but just slightly out of the way. The throttle body will touch it if you don't either A) violently yank it (like me) to pull it out of the way, or B) loosen the star bolt and adjust it slightly to make sure the throttle body clears.
Now, when installing it, look closely at the water line below the throttle body. If you tightened up the tb already, good job. You can no longer insert your charge pipe (like me) because its inhibited by the spring clip on the water line. So loosen that sucker up so you can manipulate the tb and force the charge pipe on.
Also, as a side note, you can do this job without ever unplugging the tb, but unplugging it makes it just a little bit easier. You WILL THROW CODES regardless of your car being off. Hence why it is necessary to have a way to remove codes.
With the charge pipe back on and the bolts all tightened up, you now have an easy place for nozzles, sensors, boost tap, yatta yatta yatta....
Let's start with what you absolutely, positively need to do this deceptively simple job.
1. 5mm Alan Wrench
2. 9/32 Hex Screwdriver
3. A modicum of patience
4. And if you want to disconnect your throttle body, a way to reset and remove codes. I'm not sure if backup fuse/battery disconnect will work.
It is nearly impossible to access the bottom bolts without removing the charge tube. You can, but only if you like fishing for alan wrenches in your engine bay and are a sadomasochist. It may differ from Sonic to Sonic, but the main charge tube clamp on mine came with 9/32 hex head. It literally fit 9/32 perfectly. It was too small for 8mm, too big for 7mm, and would be rounded with a 5/16".
Also, this may be a result of the PVC dumping oil to the turbo inlet, but its dirty in there.
Use a 5mm allan wrench to remove the bolts. If you can't use your bare hands to break them loose because you're a pathetic weakling (like me), use an extension. A ball end works wonders.
Simple pipe I used to help break the bolts.
If you're wondering if any inserts/sensors/plugs/fittings/nozzles/misters will interfere with the throttle plate, no it won't. Even if the plate were closer to the edge, its direction of rotation and opening ensures it will never touch anything in the spacer.
So, now, just pop it on, no problem right? Well, it isn't that simple. First, take a look at the area. The main harness and engine lift bracket is going to be in the way, but just slightly out of the way. The throttle body will touch it if you don't either A) violently yank it (like me) to pull it out of the way, or B) loosen the star bolt and adjust it slightly to make sure the throttle body clears.
Now, when installing it, look closely at the water line below the throttle body. If you tightened up the tb already, good job. You can no longer insert your charge pipe (like me) because its inhibited by the spring clip on the water line. So loosen that sucker up so you can manipulate the tb and force the charge pipe on.
Also, as a side note, you can do this job without ever unplugging the tb, but unplugging it makes it just a little bit easier. You WILL THROW CODES regardless of your car being off. Hence why it is necessary to have a way to remove codes.
With the charge pipe back on and the bolts all tightened up, you now have an easy place for nozzles, sensors, boost tap, yatta yatta yatta....
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