Retrofitting Low Beams

[lmilam]

I've seen the post about using the Morimoto, I think, kit to do it, but that's like $315 and I ain't got that money for that. With that being said, I found some projector's on Amazon for $25 but I don't know how well they will work. I don't know what relay/ballasts I need because I don't want to use them as Low/High beams, I only want low beams. I want to keep the original high beams the way they are. I plan on getting the Kensun HID Kit is Size H1 because that is what the projector calls for. I don't know how fitment of the bulbs will work also because of the OEM Bulb size being H11. A project like this is totally new and out of mt comfort zone, but my LED bulbs blind everybody is I have them adjusted so I can actually see more with high beams. I will post pictures of the things I have in my cart because I do need help. I do know retrofitting requires you to basically break your headlight so if I get going and realize it isn't gonna work, I can't afford $250 for a new headlamp. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys and girls!

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[carsNskis]

If I were going to run a budget set up I would go with these....
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...versal-kits/bi-xenon-acme-h1-stage-3-kit.html

They're from a reputable source and come with everything you need. Projectors, shrouds, ballasts, bulbs and even relays. The high beam solenoid is pre-wired for 9005, so you could splice your high beam, keeping the factory working yet still have the bixenon high also.

At $130 for the standard or $160 for the super (better solenoid and shield) you're all in at a reasonable price.

 

[SuperSonicRS]

Pretty much with lighting, it's like anything else, you get what you pay for.

Our headlamps cannot be easily baked open, you need to cut the lenses and the seal them back up. The amount of work that is involved, I would save up to do it with quality parts.

A cheaper alternative I would look into is quality LED Bulbs. http://www.snailwerksracing.com/store/p30/H11_XML2_LED_(pair).html like those there

 

[Yosemite Sam]

I went with those LED light. They work great.

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[lmilam]

I went with those LED light. They work great.

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I have some LED's now. They're 7200 lumens and the ones you guys are talking about are 2400. I'd feel like I went back to my oems! Lol


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[SuperSonicRS]

I have some LED's now. They're 7200 lumens and the ones you guys are talking about are 2400. I'd feel like I went back to my oems! Lol


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"Lumens: BUYER BEWARE! Most sellers just provide "calculated" lumen numbers, based on the maximum potential brightness of the LED chips on the bulb. For example, if a bulb has five 10-lumen chips, they will rate it at 50 lumens. However, this is not accurate, as the design of an LED bulb does not get rid of heat fast enough to run the LEDs at maximum.

These "calculated" lumen ratings are much, much higher than the true, measured light output, so it will look like competitors' bulbs are brighter than ours. This is because Diode Dynamics does not provide inflated "calculated" numbers; we believe it is misleading. We test the actual brightness of the bulbs in our lab, to provide real lumen output measurements. Our measurements are accurate, but they are usually much lower than the misleading "calculated" figures. Please click here to learn more about LED brightness measurement."

Pretty much Lumens when dealing with LEDS are subject to the same type of "false advertising" that has been happening for years with HIDs. Yes a 8500 Kelvin bulb is brighter "technically" than an 4500 Kelvin bulb. But side by side the 4500K will be "brighter" every time. The white light given off of the 4500K has more Usable light and lights up the road better. So companies (especially eBay) use these higher Kelvin numbers to drawn in unaware consumers thinking that "ohh this number is bigger it must be better"

 

[lmilam]

"Lumens: BUYER BEWARE! Most sellers just provide "calculated" lumen numbers, based on the maximum potential brightness of the LED chips on the bulb. For example, if a bulb has five 10-lumen chips, they will rate it at 50 lumens. However, this is not accurate, as the design of an LED bulb does not get rid of heat fast enough to run the LEDs at maximum.

These "calculated" lumen ratings are much, much higher than the true, measured light output, so it will look like competitors' bulbs are brighter than ours. This is because Diode Dynamics does not provide inflated "calculated" numbers; we believe it is misleading. We test the actual brightness of the bulbs in our lab, to provide real lumen output measurements. Our measurements are accurate, but they are usually much lower than the misleading "calculated" figures. Please click here to learn more about LED brightness measurement."

Pretty much Lumens when dealing with LEDS are subject to the same type of "false advertising" that has been happening for years with HIDs. Yes a 8500 Kelvin bulb is brighter "technically" than an 4500 Kelvin bulb. But side by side the 4500K will be "brighter" every time. The white light given off of the 4500K has more Usable light and lights up the road better. So companies (especially eBay) use these higher Kelvin numbers to drawn in unaware consumers thinking that "ohh this number is bigger it must be better"

Hmm. I might have to get those. Gotta pay a speeding ticket first tho! Lol. Thank ya, sir.


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[carsNskis]

TRS also has some LED options if you don't go HID. The output won't be as good, or as sharp, but it's an improvement over stock.

 

[lmilam]

TRS also has some LED options if you don't go HID. The output won't be as good, or as sharp, but it's an improvement over stock.

Are you saying HID's would put out a more direct light with stock reflectors? That's would be my main reason for retrofitting projector's into them. My LED's are so bright that they really don't stay within the reflector's range. You can still see the cutoff line, but there is SO much light that goes beyond it. I get high beamed often. The only way I don't get high beamed is if I adjust them so low my high beams shoot straight down on the ground.


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[lmilam]

TRS also has some LED options if you don't go HID. The output won't be as good, or as sharp, but it's an improvement over stock.

AND, I'm guess HID's would be more of a 360 degree light, right? Which I'm sure would help the light not be so scattered. The LED's I use have two main LED's on either side of the light fixture.


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[carsNskis]

Not sure what you're asking, but I'd recommend the following...

Best = hid projector retro

+1 = led bulbs (slightly better than stock if the LED is a superior design, if not could be worse than stock). If TRS recommends or sells then I'd trust them. If not, rolling the dice

Pnp HID are not designed for the stock housing. The bulb length/size is different so the light casts lots of glare past the cutoff (thus the high beam flashes).

 

[lmilam]

Not sure what you're asking, but I'd recommend the following...

Best = hid projector retro

+1 = led bulbs (slightly better than stock if the LED is a superior design, if not could be worse than stock). If TRS recommends or sells then I'd trust them. If not, rolling the dice

Pnp HID are not designed for the stock housing. The bulb length/size is different so the light casts lots of glare past the cutoff (thus the high beam flashes).

I wouldn't use LED's with retro's. I do know that it's best to use HID's when doing it. I thought you were talking about bulbs to use in the stock projector. My bad.


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[carsNskis]

I wouldn't use LED's with retro's. I do know that it's best to use HID's when doing it. I thought you were talking about bulbs to use in the stock projector. My bad.


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I am. The +1 refers to the stock housing. The link I provided for led goes in stock housing, better than stock bulbs.

The Projectors I looked are only for HID bulbs

 

[Toona]

If you need some videos on the subject check this out.
https://youtu.be/vxCy4YtwTOs