mcanderson0
Member
Background:
My daily commute needs bass (full audio install & Big Three) and I want to relocate my battery to the back seat area. Seats & belts are permanently removed, giving me a lot more room for my mountain bike to slip through the trunk. Better weight distribution is a plus, and i have the room to link another battery for future audio power expansion. I temporarily removed all interior panels for ease in sound deadening.
The battery is a 75Ah Optima Yellowtop (largest Deep Cycle) weighing about 60 lbs. I believe I could get the hood to shut with this battery mounted in the stock location, but relocating makes sense and is very little extra work versus only doing the Big 3 & audio.
The battery is housed in a marine-style battery-enclosure and will be vented to the exterior.
Ground:
In the engine bay, removed the small wire that was connected to the stock battery terminal and chassis-ground it. Then, removed the stock negative battery wire from the engine bay completely.
Detached the ground cable mounted from the driver side chassis on one end and to the engine block on the other end. Also detached the power cable thats bolted to the alternator, starter, and battery. I used those two old cables like a 'harness template' to cut the new 1/0 cables to length and so i could properly clock the new eyelets to the correct angle prior to crimping. Used some heat shrink tubing to cover any exposed parts, then bolted the ground cable at the chassis point and the engine point.
Power:
I temporarily have my stock battery in so the power cable connects from alternator, to starter, to battery positive.
To be continued:
Battery relocation. Once I remove the battery from under the hood, I can mount an insulated power terminal to the old battery tray. This is where the power cable from the starter and alternator attach, and also where the ECU power harness attaches. The stock battery tray still serves as a splashguard for the ECU. Soon to install some new 1/0 cable from the insulated terminal, thru the large firewall grommet, and to the battery location. Battery current sensor will be relocated to the battery by splicing in 12' of wire for 3 wires. One wire is 5V, another is ground, and the third is a 4-20mA data signal. If I cut out a few inches of the stock 22a wire and splice in 12' of 16a wire to extend it to the back, the resistance change is negligible. Update & pics to follow.
My daily commute needs bass (full audio install & Big Three) and I want to relocate my battery to the back seat area. Seats & belts are permanently removed, giving me a lot more room for my mountain bike to slip through the trunk. Better weight distribution is a plus, and i have the room to link another battery for future audio power expansion. I temporarily removed all interior panels for ease in sound deadening.
The battery is a 75Ah Optima Yellowtop (largest Deep Cycle) weighing about 60 lbs. I believe I could get the hood to shut with this battery mounted in the stock location, but relocating makes sense and is very little extra work versus only doing the Big 3 & audio.
The battery is housed in a marine-style battery-enclosure and will be vented to the exterior.
Ground:
In the engine bay, removed the small wire that was connected to the stock battery terminal and chassis-ground it. Then, removed the stock negative battery wire from the engine bay completely.
Detached the ground cable mounted from the driver side chassis on one end and to the engine block on the other end. Also detached the power cable thats bolted to the alternator, starter, and battery. I used those two old cables like a 'harness template' to cut the new 1/0 cables to length and so i could properly clock the new eyelets to the correct angle prior to crimping. Used some heat shrink tubing to cover any exposed parts, then bolted the ground cable at the chassis point and the engine point.
Power:
I temporarily have my stock battery in so the power cable connects from alternator, to starter, to battery positive.
To be continued:
Battery relocation. Once I remove the battery from under the hood, I can mount an insulated power terminal to the old battery tray. This is where the power cable from the starter and alternator attach, and also where the ECU power harness attaches. The stock battery tray still serves as a splashguard for the ECU. Soon to install some new 1/0 cable from the insulated terminal, thru the large firewall grommet, and to the battery location. Battery current sensor will be relocated to the battery by splicing in 12' of wire for 3 wires. One wire is 5V, another is ground, and the third is a 4-20mA data signal. If I cut out a few inches of the stock 22a wire and splice in 12' of 16a wire to extend it to the back, the resistance change is negligible. Update & pics to follow.
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