Electric Power! HO Alternator, Battery Capacity, Bus Bars, Cables, Power Inverters...

[mcanderson0]

These topics are not popular, but as I progress into my own build, I want to see if anyone else is doing anything 'wild' with the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I've learned a lot already and hope to learn from y'all and share what I've done.

I surf the DIYmobileaudio forums, SMD forums, some youtubers (EXO, JP, SMD, etc), and I felt like theres not enough info on the Sonic forums about big power infrastructure.

This isn't just about (you guessed it) BASS. Power inversion, relayed fuse panels, wire runs, big 3, alternators, battery banks, connections, bus bars, grounding... anything that requires interesting or excessive electric power.

Currently running:
-Stock alternator
-Big 3 upgrade (1/0AWG)
-75Ah deep cycle AGM battery (relocated to back seat for now)
-10 farad Rockford capacitor (this is a hot topic. I've found absolutely zero tests and zero definitive transient values that are realistic and available to use in calculation)
-ANL fuses where power consuming devices have been added
-700Wrms 4ch amp
-1200Wrms 2ch amp
-100A relayed fuse box (6 ATC fuses)

Planning:
-Mike Singer 200A alternator (best reputation among the few that replied)
-300Ah(+?) of AGM batteries (relocated to trunk area)
-(4) 1/0 cable from battery positive to raw copper bus bar (positive distribution block)
-(2) 4/0 cable from battery negative to ground bus bar (ground distribution block) to chassis ground
-4000Wrms amp (removing 1200Wrms amp)
-Jim's Machineworks (9) ANL fuse block

What are you doing to master electricity in your Sonic?

 

[carsNskis]

In for the conversation, getting some clipping from my amp in hotter weather so definitely taxing the system when the dub step is pumping

 

[2014 Blue RS]

I'll be a fly on the wall for this one. Interested in relocating my battery to the rear of the car. Maybe I'll learn something. .

 

[mcanderson0]

In for the conversation, getting some clipping from my amp in hotter weather so definitely taxing the system when the dub step is pumping

Same here. I also get clipping due to low quality recordings/files. I usually listen to the lowest quality file at listening (loud) level, and adjust the amp gain til clipping or saturation then back off a hair. Then, when anything better quality comes along, I can have full adjustment at the head unit or turn the volume down a hair, whichever sounds best. This method definitely reduces distortion, which reduces the power handling of all components.

For temperature issues, such as a dark blue sonic in Houston in July, I would also add to tune mid day after the system is warmed up. That way you tune to your worst case environment.

Battling clipping and voltage daily. Haha an 'everyday bassist'.

 

[mcanderson0]

(3) XS D3100's and copper bus

Update: (3) D3100's installed with copper bus. 330Ah. Im planning to install a D3400 under the hood in the stock location for a grand total of 395Ah. Updates to follow.

 

[mcanderson0]

New '200A' Alternator

244A cold at 3000rpm
216A hot at 2500rpm
132A at 800rpm
Stock automatic-trans pulley diameter: 58mm
Stock manual-trans pulley diameter: 55mm
Singer Pulley diameter: 45mm

Runs great, easy install, plenty of power (for now).

>Remove fender underpanels
>use 19mm socket on tensioner boss to loosen the belt
>e-torx socket required (forgot size) to remove 2 mounting bolts
>disconnect power cable (hex nut, i think 13mm)
>disconnect plastic harness plug
>time to install the new alt
>measure from the rear press nut to the pulley groove on both alts
>use hammer to adjust alternator's rear mounting press-nuts so that the distance is the same
>when installing new alt and slipping the mounting bolts in, shim with washers where theres a gap
>tighten mounting bolts, belt back on, tighten power cable nut, reconnect plastic 2-prong harness plug
>go back and make sure you tightened everything again
>start car
>watch belt run with flashlight, listen for noises and make sure belt is straight
>ensure voltage with a meter or your installed gauge (should be between 13.0 and 15.1V, depending on the state of charge dictated by your Powertrain Control Module, PCM)
>fender panels and bolts back on
>fin

 

[mcanderson0]

The 2015 model year had this style tensioner

19mm socket is on the boss that you have to torque against to loosen the belt

 

[mcanderson0]

Its down there

The bright orange is an homage to my first Chevy: an Omaha Orange 1972 Chevy LWB CD10

 

[mcanderson0]

Voltage Regulation

I've been searching for a solution to our internally regulated (PCM-controlled) alternator voltage swings.

There are conditions that occur within Sonic's operating statuses (dictated by a slew of sensors and modules) that regulate the voltage from 15.1V (full tilt, alternator ON) down to well-within the battery voltage, sometimes as low as 11.9V (alternator OFF, max MPG's). There are two weblinks that were awesome-helpful in understanding the car's voltage regulation scheme, i'll post those here if there's interest.

As it turns out, there are very few tunings houses that offer a solution for a PCM-controlled-alternator such as ours. I may have found one, but i am waiting for the product release. If i understand correctly, its an inline module that tells the alternator to produce 14.8V all the time, but lies to the PCM by telling it that the alternator is actually running at whatever voltage the PCM is dictating. We'll see how it performs when i get my hands on one. I talked to the designer and i have high hopes.

Running this rewound alt at 14.8V all the time may decrease longevity, but IDRGAF.

 

[mcanderson0]

Got this gauge pod and running this voltage gauge right now. Gonna fill the second hole with a dual temp gauge made by the same company.

 

[ScarabEpic22]

Yep, the ECM controls alternator output to reduce wear/tear on the alternator and entire charging system. Great for stock vehicles, not so great when you're pulling serious amps with a big aftermarket system.

My TrailBlazer SS has Alternator control editable using HPTuners. My Sonic file has some, but not all of the same parameters available. Perhaps see if you can find someone local to play with the settings with you.

 

[mcanderson0]

Thanks for the info about HPT, I'll check that out.

I did, however, contact Trifecta and they wont mess with voltage-related programming. A huge bummer considering how balls-deep they are in the ECU as it is.

 

[MaD]

How hard would it be to just add a smaller secondary alt and just run a aftermarket controller just for the battery bank for the amps? And bypass the main harness. .. just asking

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[mcanderson0]

A second alt is a great idea, but not easy to execute. There is some room in front of the engine near the freon lines, but getting the belt to wrap around the freon pulley and the second alt seems near impossible.

The second location would be near the stock alt location, but the CV axle would likely hit it.

These are the only two locations that are inline with the serp belt.

I began talks with US Alternators about custom machining a housing for a large-case Denso hairpin alt (up to 370A) that fits in the stock location. I plan to send them the stock alt case for a quote. I'll report back info as i get it.

 

[carsNskis]

What are you doing that requires all this power?

 

[mcanderson0]

(4) 15's on 6kWrms. Building a wall. Planning somewhere around 700 amperes current draw since I have the mid and high amplifiers running, too.

I've already removed the back seat, cut out everything that was in the way, built a 17 cu ft box with 13 ply birch, ran (almost) all the cable runs, blah blah blah. I have a Sundown SCV-6000D coming this week and placing order for the subs tomorrow. CDT Audio for all the mids/highs and Arc Audio amps for the mids/highs (although currently running a 15 year old Rockford Punch 400S for the tweets).

I plan to make a build thread soon. I guess I could go ahead and dump some pics, I may start it tomorrow.