bad Wheel bearing

C

Chrish051873

senior member
Initially i posted in the trans whining thread, but after a couple more days of testing and driving I have determined it is not my Transmission.

My driver side wheel bearing has bit the dust, at 49,500 miles

my GM stealer wanted 497.00 to do the job, the price of the bearing was something like 145 bucks.

I went to GMPARTSDIRECT.COM and ordered a bearing,clip and new axle nut, and my total came to 103.00

my questions are when i do this job which i hope is not a PIA,

1)do i have to get an alignment afterwards ? what if i dont take the strut loose ? as they sell bearing presses to do whlie at the car.

2) how long should it take ? I'm ok at the mechanic end and have air tools.

3) Does the ABS sensor have to come out ? and or need replaced ?

4)what the torque Spec of the axle nut when it gets re-assembled ?

Has anyone changed one in the sonic that can give me some tips ?

thanks all
Chris
 
W

Wooksquatch

Member
I don't have experience on the install of the part. I had the bearing go out on my 07 cobalt at about 100000 miles, that is the exact price GM quoted me for the job. I had it done for $250 with a 1 year warranty and lifetime warranty on the part. 3 months later the growl was back, I traded it in for my sonic before I could find out if it was the bearing assembly that was replaced or the other side.
 
Natesriv

Natesriv

Lead Foot
on a side note...did it growl/moan all the time or just during braking..I'm getting a little bit of a groan during braking..
 
C

Chrish051873

senior member
Natesriv said:
on a side note...did it growl/moan all the time or just during braking..I'm getting a little bit of a groan during braking..
Click to expand...

when it first started, it could only be heard groaning at speeds of 30-40 mph.

as a day or 2 went by it started more at a slower speed 20- ??, then at a hard braking it would maon really bad.

diagnosing it was sharp left or right turns.

it groans hard on the right turn because it throws the weight of the car on the left side.

today is the last day of driving it to work, i can even start to feel it in the steering wheel and i dont want to replace any more parts than i have to, I'm sure it's already going to be the PIA to get out of there anyway.
 
Natesriv

Natesriv

Lead Foot
I'd say the nut to take the hub off is going to be a large beyatch of an affair... like I need a cheater bar affair.
The rest is gravy..well unless the hub needs to be pressed out.... then that's another story.
 
C

Chrish051873

senior member
Natesriv said:
I'd say the nut to take the hub off is going to be a large beyatch of an affair... like I need a cheater bar affair.
The rest is gravy..well unless the hub needs to be pressed out.... then that's another story.
Click to expand...

yea, i have a 6 foot cheater at home, still need the know the torque spec on that nut, i may have to call the dealership and see if they will tell me.

the bearing will need pressed out/in, hopefully the hub comes right off
(crossing fingers):eek:
 
mitdr774

mitdr774

also a dinner prick
Chances are that you will have to remove the knuckle and have the hub pressed out of the bearing and then the bearing pressed out of the knuckle. Looking at things it seems as though the sonic is a press in instead of a bolt on unit bearing.
 
C

Chrish051873

senior member
mitdr774 said:
Chances are that you will have to remove the knuckle and have the hub pressed out of the bearing and then the bearing pressed out of the knuckle. Looking at things it seems as though the sonic is a press in instead of a bolt on unit bearing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

Any tips ?

I was going to purchase the wheel bearing press from harbor freight(I don't think,well hope I don't use it often)http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

From what your saying is that either I have the pressing done or buy the 6 Ton free standing press. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html

or just get it off, take it to a shop and have them do the pressing ?

I will need an alignment if I remove the entire knuckle, right ?

Chris
 
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I

Italianjoe1

Member
You should be fine as far as alignment is concerned, as you don't need to remove anything that is actually adjustable to remove it so it all should go back together the same.

As far as a press bearing, yes usually you need to pull the knuckle and press the bearing/hub out and then press them back in in sequence, if you haven't done it before and don't have a press it's pretty easy to mess it up and have a bearing that doesn't last too long. I'd say just pull the knuckle and see if a local shop will do just the bearing change for a small fee.
 
RMinNJ

RMinNJ

Active member
The press prices at Harbor Freight don't look bad at all. I mean if it's a $100 part and you need a $100 tool it seems your still ahead of the game; if the whole part comes off and fits in the press. I don't know what the knuckle looks like but doesn't one need a cylinder on the press of the correct/exact diameter to press out the bearing?

I'm interested because I've done some suspension work on my other car that mechanics were asking thousands for, or , one, refused to do. The work was challenging but it seems my time is worth less than a mechanics . I've never done a bearing though.
Keep us posted.
 
C

Chrish051873

senior member
Im not sure if the 6 ton is good enough, i may have to buy the 12 ton, another 30 bucks.

or i just may take some advice and take it to a local shop that does this kind of work, even though i would love to give it a shot, plus its almost like another free tool i will gain for other projects down the road.

I have changed my share of bearings on my ATV, but with using the freezer for the bearing and heating up the hub, it then just drops right in.
 
C

Chrish051873

senior member
update:

Got my wheel bearing in last night, tok for a ride around the block, noise was gone.

on the way to work, noise came back, sucks.

nothing has changed, except somehow i damaged the ABS sensor as now i have a light on in dash.

so now this tells me as the car warms up 5-10 minutes it starts to growl.

still does it on right turns and while braking. Can really start to hear it about 30-35 MPH

so i'm at a loss here, and asking for any and all ideas.

Could it be the CV joint(axle) ?

transmission still ?

thanks all
Chris
 
ss2000slp

ss2000slp

New member
No offense, but odds are better that it was an incorrect installation. Recheck the axle nut, see if it tightens any more. If the hub is not seated all the way into the bearing, you will get a noise.
 
ss2000slp

ss2000slp

New member
There are two different style axle nuts, and two different torque procedures.

Style 1 - Thin collar 1.5 mil thickness, tighten to 244 lb ft

Style 2 - Thick collar 2.7 mil thickness, 37 lb ft, then 60 degrees.

Got this information under front drive replacement in mitchells. If you look under torque specs, it only lists 37 lb ft plus 60 degrees.
 
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