Air Noise in Heater Core PART NEEDED

[gnonne]

After a few weeks fooling with a minor problem on our 2012 1.8L sedan, I found we were getting a small puddle of Dexcool on the garage floor overnight, pretty far back under the transmission area of the car. Checked all connections on thermostat housing when cold and when hot. Noticed maybe a bit of Dexcool in one of the "wells" on the transmission case just below the thermostat housing, so I tightened the four E10 bolts just a bit in case it was leaking there, but I was pretty sure that was just residue from the time I ran it with the cap loose and Dexcool got all over the place.

A few days later, top of transmission and side of engine and all t-stat connections are VERY dry, but we still get the puddle, which is so small that it can go a week before you notice it on the coolant level in the reservoir. Also checked the reservoir for leaks, hot and and cold. Of course, we still get sound of air/water rushing through the heater core first drive in the AM....

Today, After driving to/from church, I found the leak. Where the two heater hoses attach to the heater core at the firewall, the lower hose is a bit wet and there is a wet spot on the firewall back there. It does not appear to be the hose clamp, but rather the 90 degree quick-connect plastic elbow that connects the lower hose to the heater core.

A bit too warm to take it apart right now, but I can't seem to find this part online.

Has anyone else taken this off and put in a new O-ring from Lowes or something like that? Do you know where I could get the part or retrofit a solution? I had problems similar to this on an Italian MC with quick connects on the coolant lines, but they were far easier to access and could be replaced with a different hose.

This is definitely the problem as it will let the heater core drain overnight, then you hear the air in the AM.

Thanks in advance, GN

 

[Andy3521]

p/n is 95018021 which is superceding to 42615975 fits '12-'18

 

[JTee2017]

If you just need the heater hose connector fo inlet and outlet hoses, I would go to a GM parts counter and have them look them up. Them buy the one you need but get both the inlet and outlet hose part numbers as well as the connector part numbers.
Then search for the best price/availability online.

 

[gnonne]

Andy's p/n are for the entire heater core - which is not what I need. I only need the plastic connector(s). Maybe NAPA can match one up?

Saw online that GM trucks use a larger version of these and they are known to go bad after 6-7 years, and are replaceable with a removal tool. These look to come off by releasing the wire retainer.

Some GM parts sites show the hoses and connectors as a unit, but not the connectors alone.

 

[gnonne]

Took it apart this afternoon and went to the local GM parts counter. The plastic connectors are part numbers 95089364 an 95089363 - forgot which is which. These are non-stock items and the large dealer said he never sold any of them. $27 for both, tax included. But, I can't order them because I left my wallet at home and special orders are prepaid only...

So we get to looking at them and notice that the one that was leaking basically had no O-ring in it. It was there, but it was at best a D-ring, with the flattened side supposed to be making the seal. OK, if I can find a new O-ring that will solve it...

Go home and get my wallet, then head to Menard's. The plumbing guy there knows me by name and they have O-rings in dozens of sizes. Their UNION #2 O-ring 1 -1/8 x 7/8 was literally perfect, and $1.09 each. I bought two.

Replaced O-rings in both fittings and re-installed. Refilled Dexcool and sprayed down the mess I had made. Test drove the car, no problems noted.

Warning: You need a good amount of Vaseline on these to get them to slide over the metal tube and lock in place when they are not worn. I tried one "drier" than the other and no-go. Lubed it and bingo, it goes on with a nice tight seal.

Total cost of repair $2.31 plus some Dexcool I had in the garage.

 

[Meatball]

Can you post pics of the pesky leak area?

 

[Andy3521]

I read your post wrong, thought you wanted the heater core number. Sorry about that.

 

[chowly]

Took it apart this afternoon and went to the local GM parts counter. The plastic connectors are part numbers 95089364 an 95089363 - forgot which is which. These are non-stock items and the large dealer said he never sold any of them. $27 for both, tax included. But, I can't order them because I left my wallet at home and special orders are prepaid only...

So we get to looking at them and notice that the one that was leaking basically had no O-ring in it. It was there, but it was at best a D-ring, with the flattened side supposed to be making the seal. OK, if I can find a new O-ring that will solve it...

Go home and get my wallet, then head to Menard's. The plumbing guy there knows me by name and they have O-rings in dozens of sizes. Their UNION #2 O-ring 1 -1/8 x 7/8 was literally perfect, and $1.09 each. I bought two.

Replaced O-rings in both fittings and re-installed. Refilled Dexcool and sprayed down the mess I had made. Test drove the car, no problems noted.

Warning: You need a good amount of Vaseline on these to get them to slide over the metal tube and lock in place when they are not worn. I tried one "drier" than the other and no-go. Lubed it and bingo, it goes on with a nice tight seal.

Total cost of repair $2.31 plus some Dexcool I had in the garage.

Just created a profile here to comment on this old forum post to thank you gnonne! I have been chasing a coolant leak in my S.O.'s 2014 Chevy Sonic and got to the point where I could smell the sweet coolant stank in the cab and noticed a thin film of coolant forming on the inside of her windshield. I looked up YouTube videos on this topic and found this guy

pulling the dash out of a Sonic and I got a rough idea of how to get to the heater core (disassembling the entire dash). If you happen to be still active on this forum 4 years later, did you end up pulling the entire dash or were you able to manipulate the plastic trim in the footwell enough to replace the O-rings on the inlet and outlet of the heater core?

Thanks for your hard work tracking down the part numbers for the plastic connectors and O-ring sizes! They are cheap on Rock Auto (95089364 - $3.19 and 95089363 - $7.11), and a much better offer than the $104.79 I was about to pay for the entire OEM replacement heater core kit that includes the O-rings I was about to order. Thank you again!!