Help! Bypass valve bypass gone wrong!

[Colin]

So I finally went to perform the bypass valve mod and immediately broke the fitting/barb on the bottom of the passenger side of the intake manifold....

I was wondering if I could route the line from the vacuum canister at the bottom of the IM to the BPV and JB weld the port I broke shut? I'm referring to the vacuum line on the left of this image at the bottom of the IM.

I just pulled the hose on the canister off of the bottom of the IM and it make a hiss as if there were still vacuum in there.... I'm concerned the canister is switched in some way which might mean it's not fit for being connected to the BPV.

JB welding the bottom left barb I broke back on seems like it won't be reliable... I'd like to JB weld it shut and find another vacuum source if possible.

Can anyone help?

 

[RMinNJ]

ouch..

maybe plug the hole in some solid way (JB weld, bolt the same size)...

then.. maybe someone makes a barb fitting that you can screw into a new hole you drill?
I'm thinking of those brake bleeding screws? maybe screw one of those into a new hole in the plastic and then you can connect the vaccum line to that...

 

[mvasilevsky]

ouch, easy fix barb fitting then jb weld surrounding area

 

[Colin]

ouch, easy fix barb fitting then jb weld surrounding area

Exactly what I did. I tapped a new vacuum into the manifold and epoxied the broken end. Will reinstall everything and report back after the epoxy dries.

Thanks everyone

 

[Colin]

Alright, just put everything back together and the car is running really rough.... It's my birthday weekend and I'm now more or less without a car....

Symptoms are as follows:

-Car bucks under acceleration
-Not fully able to build boost (4-5psi max shown on ultra gauge on stock tune)
-When the car is shut down the fans cycle as if it's really hot but it's not
-No apparent vacuum leaks heard when the engine is idling....

Just to confirm I performed this correctly.... The only vacuum line plugged in to the bypass valve is the line going to the bottom of the manifold. The other two ports are blocked. Is this correct? The new vacuum line I tapped is going to the BPV.

Any ideas? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Feeling worn down....

 

[rsSteve]

Only one of the lines should be blocked. Im a little confused as to what lines you blocked/didnt block. Look at my post #327 in that thread for reference.

Yes

In this picture the one end of the green hose is plugged off (the one that is not connected to anything). The new hose goes where it use to go as you can see in this pic.

The line with the T-fitting in my pic connects to the line coming from the BPV. The Black with green stripe behind it that has the wire tie on it gets capped off. (i only used T-fitting for boost gauge)

 

[Colin]

Thanks for the quick reply Steve. There are 3 fittings on the bypass as far as I can remember.

1. Connects to the vacuum fitting on canister thing on the bottom of the IM
2. Connects to the BPV (you have this capped in your photo)
3. Connects to the vacuum fitting on the bottom of the passenger side of the IM

I capped fittings 2 and 3 right at the bypass valve.

See image below for numbers.

 

[Colin]

So instead of capping the black with the green fitting #3 in my description (with the wire tie on it in your photo) I just removed the line and capped it at the bypass valve.

 

[rsSteve]

Ok so sounds like you did it right. I couldn't remember exactly as i did it over a year ago

When I did this i believe a few codes popped up on my Ultra Gauge but didn't throw a CEL since I cleared them right away. Im not sure but maybe one of those could cause it to go into limp mode. Do you have a code scanner or access to one? Maybe you can make it to an auto parts store who does free scanning if its close enough.

Do you have a picture of the repair job? Do you think any JB weld could be blocking the hole a little bit?

If you have an Ultra Gauge can you tell us what the LTFT (long term fuel trim) is reading?

 

[rsSteve]

So instead of capping the black with the green fitting #3 in my description (with the wire tie on it in your photo) I just removed the line and capped it at the bypass valve.

The bypass valve line needs to connect to the all black line with the T-fitting in the picture. Instead of a T-fitting use a inline though. It should definitely should not be capped off.

This line in this picture is the same as mine with the T-fitting. The line with the 90* bend is the one from the BPV

 

[Colin]

I unfortunately didn't take a pic of the repair job, but I pulled the hose off of the JB welded tap while it was running and I could clearly feel the vacuum and hear the hiss.

 

[Colin]

The bypass valve line needs to connect to the all black line with the T-fitting in the picture. Instead of a T-fitting use a inline though. It should definitely should not be capped off.

This line in this picture is the same as mine with the T-fitting. The line with the 90* bend is the one from the BPV

Using my numbers listed above, what lines should I not be capping?

 

[Maddmatts]

There should be no open ports/hoses anywhere.

The bypass valve will get forced open at ~5psi if it isn't seeing boost pressure from the manifold. Whatever you have it connected to, it's not getting the pressure it needs to hold the valve closed.

 

[Colin]

Thanks so much for everyone's help. There were no issues in the way I performed the modification, I simply reset the ECU and everything is now working.

Not sure why my ECU flaked, but it's actually the second time this has happened... Once about 20k miles ago, and at that time I hadn't made any modifications or changes to the vechicle -just started it up one morning and it drove like crap.

Thanks again everyone. Boost response is improved after the mod.

 

[SoCalRs]

Ok so sounds like you did it right. I couldn't remember exactly as i did it over a year ago

When I did this i believe a few codes popped up on my Ultra Gauge but didn't throw a CEL since I cleared them right away. Im not sure but maybe one of those could cause it to go into limp mode. Do you have a code scanner or access to one? Maybe you can make it to an auto parts store who does free scanning if its close enough.

Do you have a picture of the repair job? Do you think any JB weld could be blocking the hole a little bit?

If you have an Ultra Gauge can you tell us what the LTFT (long term fuel trim) is reading?

so if you did use a T fitting can you attatch that to a boost gauge and get a accurate boost reading im planning on doing this mod at the same time i install the gauge

 

[Mr.turner85]

Does ultragauge show inches of vacuum when not in boost. Depending on conditions it should be around 14-20 inches of mercury at idle. If it is low you have an intake leak, maybe it cracked up the seam when the barb broke and only leaks when pressurized. If you get a p0171 code mixture too lean then you have an intake leak. In some situations when a fault is detected the computer enters a failsafe mode and this could explain the fans coming on even when it isn't hot, more a better safe than sorry kind of deal for the computer. If you have carb cleaner, brake cleaner, hair spray, spray it near where you made the repair or where you suspect a leak and if the idle changes or it runs better than you have a leak because you are adding fuel to a lean engine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SoCalRs]

boost guage

I did it I used a phantom boost gauge with the ZZP dual pod dash holder the bypass mod is a confusing thing took me awhile I must had did it right I have 17/20 vacum at idle and when it boost it shows the boost at wot with the turbo advantage tune I have 20/21 psi I noticed the difference at wot but thats the only place you will normal driving I didn't notice it at all . My thought was that solinoid was there to keep you from over boosting the turbo at wot when the pressure goes through the hard plastic line it opens the solinoid /check valve and allows boost to be sucked in the intake only a few psi but the elec line must do something to the air fuel ratio on the computer the elec connection definitely tells the ECU that your at full boost with out the bypass don't know if I'm right but that was my theory it's there for a reason.

 

[SoCalRs]

Ha ha I just realized I answered my own post from a while back !!!! Some times you feel like a nut ... Too funny