My 2015 Chevy Sonic 1.5 LTZ has been overheating. I brought the car to a shop to have it flushed (thinking maybe something's blocked) but still having overheating issues. Here's what's been done:
1. Thermostat removed (to eliminate sticky thermostat possibility)
2. Both coolant temperature sensors (radiator and Engine Coolant Water Outlet) replaced
3. Of course, the flush and refill of coolant
Here are the symptoms and behavior of the car:
1. No matter whether I'm driving on highway or city or idling, the car will overheat. For idling w/ hood up, it just takes longer.
2. When ECT (via ODB2) reads 210 F, fan turns on.
3. When ECT reads 235 F, fan speed increases
4. Overheating warning indicator turns on at 257 F
5. Coolant seems to be flowing in the top hose of the overflow coolant tank.
6. Blasting the cabin heater will quickly bring down the ECT (257 F down to around 230 F in about 3 to 5 mins with outside weather at around 70 F). Overheating chime turns off around 248 F.
6a. The heater does blast hot air.
7. Opening the hood, it certainly does look like the car's gotten hot. Coolant spray onto the battery tray. Slight steam from the cap of the overflow tank.
8. ODB2 ECU scan shows code PB00B7-00 "Engine coolant flow insufficient."
I read that PB00B7 could indicate a differential in temperature readings between the two coolant temp sensors. One possible cause is faulty sensors, but I just replaced both today.
At this point I'm wondering whether the radiator isn't doing it's job (because the heater core seems to be doing a pretty good job when I blast the heat) or if there's something wrong with my water pump (which is about 6 months old).
If coolant seems to be flowing in the top hose of the coolant tank and the heater core seems to be working, would that indicate that the water pump is okay?
How could I check whether there's a temp differential between the two temp sensors? If I have an infrared thermometer, could I measure the temperatures of the sensors themselves? Or are there hoses I should check? And if I find that the radiator is cooler than than another part of the coolant system, what would that mean?
Sorry for all the questions at once. I've been thinking about this pretty intensely for the last few days.:blankface:
1. Thermostat removed (to eliminate sticky thermostat possibility)
2. Both coolant temperature sensors (radiator and Engine Coolant Water Outlet) replaced
3. Of course, the flush and refill of coolant
Here are the symptoms and behavior of the car:
1. No matter whether I'm driving on highway or city or idling, the car will overheat. For idling w/ hood up, it just takes longer.
2. When ECT (via ODB2) reads 210 F, fan turns on.
3. When ECT reads 235 F, fan speed increases
4. Overheating warning indicator turns on at 257 F
5. Coolant seems to be flowing in the top hose of the overflow coolant tank.
6. Blasting the cabin heater will quickly bring down the ECT (257 F down to around 230 F in about 3 to 5 mins with outside weather at around 70 F). Overheating chime turns off around 248 F.
6a. The heater does blast hot air.
7. Opening the hood, it certainly does look like the car's gotten hot. Coolant spray onto the battery tray. Slight steam from the cap of the overflow tank.
8. ODB2 ECU scan shows code PB00B7-00 "Engine coolant flow insufficient."
I read that PB00B7 could indicate a differential in temperature readings between the two coolant temp sensors. One possible cause is faulty sensors, but I just replaced both today.
At this point I'm wondering whether the radiator isn't doing it's job (because the heater core seems to be doing a pretty good job when I blast the heat) or if there's something wrong with my water pump (which is about 6 months old).
If coolant seems to be flowing in the top hose of the coolant tank and the heater core seems to be working, would that indicate that the water pump is okay?
How could I check whether there's a temp differential between the two temp sensors? If I have an infrared thermometer, could I measure the temperatures of the sensors themselves? Or are there hoses I should check? And if I find that the radiator is cooler than than another part of the coolant system, what would that mean?
Sorry for all the questions at once. I've been thinking about this pretty intensely for the last few days.:blankface:
