To wax, or not to wax, that is the question!
- Thread starter Hoody32
- Start date
SuperSonicRS
New member
I know there is some new special Eco friendly painting process for our cars. I've seen some members complain about the paint chipping easily. That probally has something to do with it.
Maddmatts
Member
Interesting, the 2012 manual says something similar. Chapter 10-80; "Application of aftermarket clearcoat sealant/wax materials is not recommended."
But in the next paragraph; " Occasional hand waxing or mild polishing should be done to remove residue from the paint finish."
Then later on; "Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for basecoat/clearcoat finishes.
It's clear the manual was written by committee.
I know normal fresh paint requires some time to breath (90 days?) to cure properly.
But in the next paragraph; " Occasional hand waxing or mild polishing should be done to remove residue from the paint finish."
Then later on; "Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for basecoat/clearcoat finishes.
It's clear the manual was written by committee.
I know normal fresh paint requires some time to breath (90 days?) to cure properly.
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ahtoxa
New member
Have you noticed just how many cars drive around with buffer burn? Man, on a sunny days it just makes me all sad looking at the swirl marks and ghosting ALL OVER a nice, dark-colored car. Saw that the other day sitting on the patio at Chipotle, eating lunch and staring at the cars passing by.
Back to topic - very interesting. This is the first time I've ever seen a recommendation not to wax.
Hoody32
New member
So... Is this something that a professional needs to tell you should be done? Are the techs in the service department, "paint specialists"? Should they be telling me when waxing is needed? I know also that the manual says to wash the undercarriage twice a year. If Chevrolet can tell me when to do one thing, why not the other? It wold be nice if the said how often it should be done, instead of just telling me to ask my dealership what to use.
Hoody32
New member
I see all the time: Mercedes, BMW, Cadillac, Audi, expensive cars with second class maintenance. I hate swirl marks and have always used wax to hide them. Waxing will cause marks, not from the wax, any and all rags will marr the surface. It is crazy to think a clear coat is so thin that buffing with a rag would deplete it...
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
It's actually not the rag itself. But the dust and dirt partials beings ground into the paint by the rag.
Perks of working with optics for a living
Hoody32
New member
I will be the guy who says "screw it"... Ill try not using wax. I love paint. I love waxing and polishing. I want my sonic to look its best so ill do what the "man" says. I will however use a wash and wax if bugs and tar start to build up then ill use some micro polish or something that is lightly abrassive but I WILL try to remove everything by washing.
if bugs and tar start to build up then ill use some micro polish or something that is lightly abrassive but I WILL try to remove everything by washing.
Hoody32
New member
I always tried to wax a panel with every wash. I've never seen any damage from waxing too much but I guess that isn't saying that the paint looked its best or that I was not reducing the thickness of the clear coat. Does anyone know what chevy recommends using for protection, and how often the maker of that product suggests applying?
Blue hedgehog
New member
Sure it is.
I read the manual from cover to cover when I got my sonic. I don't remember seeing that. I must have missed a section. So does anyone know what chevy recommends for paint protection? If not wax what? On my bike for quick detailing I use BUGSLIDE™ since bug slide is t a wax and is a uv protectant. Is it better than wax?
Edit:
I just looked it up http://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...rship/Manuals and Videos/02_pdf/2k13sonic.pdf pages 10-80 - 10-81. They do recommend waxing.
"Occasional hand waxing or mild polishing should be done to remove residue from the paint finish. See your dealer for approved cleaning products. Do not apply waxes or polishes to uncoated plastic, vinyl, rubber, decals, simulated wood, or flat paint as damage can occur.
Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/ clearcoat paint finish on the vehicle."
While I was at the dealership the other day picking up oil filters, they had a display with all GM cleaning and waxing chemicals and rags.
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JINKO6.7
New member
I have a 2013 Blue Topaz Metallic LTZ Sedan, I just finished a clay bar, polish and wax this past weekend, the car looks much better than it did previously. It gave the paint much more depth than it had previously. I don't see how using clean microfibers and quality detailing products could hurt the car. I will always detail my car for the satisfaction and comfort I get from it.
Hoody32
New member
Then there is certainly a contradiction. My manual states that waxing is not recommended but goes on to say that it's ok to occasionally apply a protectant. I think it's great that people want to protect their rides but I'm thinking that it is possible to buff right through our clear coat. I can't say how much buffing it would take to burn through but it surely is possible if using the wrong products.
Natesriv
Lead Foot
I will say our paint seems very fragile (I think that's Italian)...
But yeah, there's all types of modern synthetics which don't have the abrasives and provide a good protection.
And regardless how clean you keep it, the diffrence in smoothness between waxed and not waxed is amazing..
But yeah, there's all types of modern synthetics which don't have the abrasives and provide a good protection.
And regardless how clean you keep it, the diffrence in smoothness between waxed and not waxed is amazing..
