How to Remove Your Transaxle

[Preloader]

How to Remove Your Transaxle (M32 Edition)

This DIY will be a work in progress while I edit in more pictures.

Time:4-6hrs

Tools:
Sockets-21mm,18mm,15mm,14mm,13mm,10mm,swivel adapter
30" extension
T-15 torx
10mm allen for drain/fill plug
Needle nose vice pliers

First start at the top. Remove the battery (10mm), battery strap (13mm) and battery tray (14mm). Unplug the three harnesses from the ECU and remove it.

Unplug the sensors to the trans (M32, top and front), unplug the harness to the ABS canister and pull the wire harness out of the way.

Disconnect the shift cables. They pry off of the linkage joints with a flat tip screwdriver.

Remove the two 13mm bolts on the shifter linkage bracket.

Remove the three 18mm bellhousing bolts that can be reached from the top, and also remove two of the three 15mm driver side trans mount bolts.

Next, remove the front wheels and lift the car. Remove the belly pan, the air dam panel from the front bumper and the lower wheel well panels.

Now you want to start removing everything involved with the subframe. The lower ball joints will separate with ease once you remove the 15mm bolt holding it to the spindle. Also disconnect the stabilizer links from the swaybar.

Remove the ABS can, two 13mm bolts.

There are two 10mm screws holding the plastic charge elbow to the sub frame, they are a pain to remove and I don't intend to put them back in as the plastic clips should hold fine without the screws.

Remove the two through bolts (18mm) holding the steering rack to the sub frame.

There are three 13mm bolts on each front side holding the radiator and IC support to the subframe. Remove them.

Remove the 18mm bolt from the lower trans mount and the three 18mm bolts holding the mount bracket.

Now remove the large bolts, 21mm and 18mm holding the subframe in and lower the sub frame.

Now's a good time to drain the gear oil.

Disconnect both drive axles. The driver side can just be pulled out from the trans. The passenger side has 3 bolts holding it in.

Now support the engine while you remove the remaining bellhousing bolts. But leave one in handtight towards the front.

It's a good idea to pinch the hydraulic line before unplugging it from the slave.

Now the fun part..... Get back up to the top and remove the third 15mm bolt on the upper mount. Remove the three 18mm bracket bolts. (pic coming soon) Now you can get your shoulder under the trans and remove the last bellhousing bolt and bring the transaxle out and down.

Reverse steps for install.

 

[pacman552]

NICE! now i know what to do when i drop in an mz0 and quafie diff

 

[Eric Smit]

winner.

 

[Preloader]

See pics for an example of what appropriate sized man hands are suppose to look like.

 

[slitzell]

See pics for an example of what appropriate sized man hands are suppose to look like.

I was just thinking that

 

[lambertsonic]

Great write , thanks for sharing .

 

[Eric Smit]

See pics for an example of what appropriate sized man hands are suppose to look like.

and who do they belong to? Is that your transmission guy?

opcorn:

 

[Preloader]

Do those hands look Mexican? LMAO

 

[Eric Smit]

 

[$ub$onic]

Hahaha that's great

 

[Preloader]

Bumping this thread for a friend who may need it soon.

I totally forgot I made this thread. In related news, my MZ4's 5th gear is crunching much like my MZ0's 3rd gear did before it started going out. Leading me to believe that I've got a damaged fork tip on the 5th/6th shaft.

Honestly, I could live without the 6th gear altogether on the MZ4. But 5th is skippable if I have to manage until I'm ready for another MZ0.

It's opposite with the MZO...... 5th is rarely used if at all, but 6th is critical for commuting.

 

[sx sonic]

Why is this thread not stick-ied? Lol

What trans fluid have you been running?

 

[Preloader]

I've used Redline GL-4 75w-90 for most of my changes, but used Amsoil on the last one. They seem to be pretty equal. But I'm getting a little tired of how hard Amsoil is being pushed as god's gift to Cruze/Sonics, so I may go back to Redline so I don't feel like a shepherd's sheep.

 

[Foxbox]

But I'm getting a little tired of how hard Amsoil is being pushed as god's gift to Cruze/Sonics, so I may go back to Redline so I don't feel like a shepherd's sheep.

Yes.

Yes.

Yes.

I really can't stand the Trifecta FB group now because of that one person.

 

[Van]

Do you have to undo the large nut on the axles and take them all the way out? Or can you just swing the struts out enough to get the axles out of the tranny?

 

[NewZJ]

I did mine while swapping shocks/struts. If you disconnect the lower ball joint you can pull them out after removing the clip holding them
You don't need to remove that nut

 

[MythicMayhem]

Hey Preloader, sorry to necro this thread, I'm looking to finally swap my clutch and flywheel, but I have what may be a dumb question; did this job require a transmission jack, or did you just manhandle it?
I have prior experience with clutch/flywheel replacement, but my experience is exclusively with Rwd International rigs, which are obviously completely different beasts. Anyway, if one is necessary I'd be open to recommendations.

P.S. I've been lurking as a guest since 2013, your posts have been extremely helpful since I started my build.

 

[$ub$onic]

I doubt preloader gets on SOF anymore, he no linnets owns the sonic.

You should be able to manhandle the Trans, it's not very heavy

 

[walkncontradxn]

Just wanted to bump this thread and let whoever cares know that I'm currently using this guide and may add some more info if useful afterwards.
Replacing the clutch with the GM performance kit and replacing the dif with wavetrac!
Any advice and warning appreciated.

 

[mja]

opcorn: let us know how you like the wavetrac opcorn: