94383Z71's Sonic Build

[SoundWave]

Yeah I wouldn't recommend rushing the dynamat install. That's why I'm waiting until I have like 6 days where my car can be in pieces and I don't have to worry.

The amp makes me really curious, because someone did it on here and got great feedback, never complained about the amp tripping the safety. The amp you linked would definitely work but then I can't fit it under the shift console, which I really wanted.

Edit: previously mentioned thread
http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...adunit-but-replacing-speakers-adding-amp.html

Might as well continue the edit to say that my MOOG endlinks are here, might put them on today. Also ordered the MPFab spacer for the anaconda based on Walker's recommendation to try it with the stock catback first. That will be installed Tuesday.

I'm glad to be wrong on the amplifier front I'm gonna stick with the stock head unit for now, as what I Want is out of my budget for now. Will probably replace the H/U and add amps/subs later next year.

Yeah, I've done Dynamat several times before, so I know what I'm in for. It's not something I Can commit to until September at least with the rest of my life happening, so we will see how that goes.

I've been concocting a dual-exhaust based on the Anaconda, stock cat back, and a second straight-pipe exhaust with an electric cut-out. Need to hear a few exhausts in person before I decide if it's worth it or not.

 

[94383Z71]

I don't know that I'll ever move away from the stock HU, and if I do it will most likely be a dash mounted tablet.

Exhaust has been very tricky for me too. RDSS and MPFab's videos have helped a lot. I'm going to stick with the stock catback first and modify it from there.

Edit: I've never dynamatted before, any tips?

 

[SoundWave]

Edit: I've never dynamatted before, any tips?

The Dynamat itself is very easy to work with cheap scissors is really all you need to cut it. I do recommend going for the roller, I've done it with, and without; sliced my fingers up pretty good doing it without. Since our cars are new, there won't need to be much surface prep, just wipe down with some alcohol swabs, or rubbing alcohol and a micro-fiber before you start laying it down.

Otherwise the hardest thing is keeping everything straight on the interior panels, most modern cars are put together with various plastic rivets and tabs, keeping them in-tact can be harrowing sometimes. I haven't seen any threads detailing an interior tear down, so I plan to take it slow; take lots of pictures, and try not to break anything

 

[94383Z71]

thank you! I had actually been debating on the roller.

I think I'm gonna be pulling the trigger today on the mat/speakers/amp/kit listed above, and just hope the parts play as well together as they did in the thread previous.

 

[SoundWave]

thank you! I had actually been debating on the roller.

I think I'm gonna be pulling the trigger today on the mat/speakers/amp/kit listed above, and just hope the parts play as well together as they did in the thread previous.

Just saw this in another thread, should be useful for removing the trim without scratching it:
5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set

 

[94383Z71]

I actually bought a 4 piece set of those in my order! lol. I bought the speakers/wiring kit/remoers/dynamat/rollers today. Need for it to post so I can pay it off my card then buy the amp and some 18ga cable.

Forgot to mention that the end links TOTALLY solved my clunk problem in the front end. couldn't be more pleased.

Looking forward to tearing my car apart for a few days to get everything installed, including the IC should be a pretty spiffy car in the end.

 

[94383Z71]

Well, just ordered the 300x4 from crutchfield ($20 cheaper than anywhere else with free 2 day shipping!) and 100ft of pyramid 18ga wire for $7 from amazon. Lots of parts in the mail:

MPFab adapter- should be delivered and installed today
Pass taillight- should be delivered and installed tomorrow
Dynamat/Speakers/roller/trim removers/install kit- should be delivered tomorrow
Amp/18ga wire- should be delivered thursday

Hope to have everything installed, including the intercooler that's still waiting, a week from today. It'll take some serious work, but I'll do it after work a few days and all day Sunday too.

Once the sound system and IC are in, I'll datalog for Trifecta and tell them to open it up as much as possible. After that, I'll be doing cosmetic work (headlight rings/grille trim/taillights/trunk pull) to round out the color scheme, and I doubt I'll touch it much after that because I need to ramp up my savings for school

 

[94383Z71]

Good news and bad news.

Good news is that I got the adapter on last night. Damn, it's a whole different car again. I can hear myself think! It sounds good as is, but I may play around with removing the muffler/res to change the volume and tone a touch.

Bad news is I've had the carpet yanked out from under me. I was supposed to get a 2014 Corvette Stingray for a week through work today at 3. Last night at 5:30 I get a call saying that I don't qualify for it because I'm technically contract, even though I've had it reserved for six weeks. Because of that, I don't know how I'm gonna have time to tear my car all apart for the audio install, which I'm not 100% on how to do it to start with.

Incredibly frustrating. On to some random pics of the anaconda and sway bar endlinks installs

Nice touch:


MPFab Hi-Flow cat cells:


Stock cat cells:


Pics from when I realized the anaconda wouldn't mount up:



Random pic of the turbine wheel:


MOOG end links:


MOOG vs Stock:

 

[Stew]

You mentioned somewhere you are seeing 23 to 24 psi boost on your ultragauge, have you been to a dyno to see what kind of numbers you're putting down? I looked around but didn't see anything. Also, have you checked out your mass air flow numbers?

Are you holding that kind of boost all up through the rev range or does it peak that high and then start trailing off?

I'm trying to get a feel for the power numbers and g/s when reaching those higher boost numbers.

Thanks in advance!

 

[2014 Blue RS]

I don't know that I'll ever move away from the stock HU, and if I do it will most likely be a dash mounted tablet.

Exhaust has been very tricky for me too. RDSS and MPFab's videos have helped a lot. I'm going to stick with the stock catback first and modify it from there.

Edit: I've never dynamatted before, any tips?

Just did this today.

Tools:
7mm deep well socket with and extension.
Utility knife
Very small flat head or a (I used a pic)
Roller
Gloves

Approach:
Remove the 2 7mm bolts
Pull the small top piece of trim off (just pops off)
Pull the panel starting in the bottom corner
Unplug the connectors for power windows and doors
Unhook the door lever. Couple steps for this.
Lift grey tab so you can pull the cable out.
Then swing the cable towards you so it lines up with the ball in it's anchoring point.

Then just lift up to get it off the top lip of the door. Before doing this, take note of what areas are covered by the door panel.

Remove the plastic covering all the holes.
Then just lay the dynamat up to the door and trim or shape it so it covers everything you and won't show. Then peel and stick and give it a good pressing to ensure it sticks good.

Don't worry about covering the holes where the plastic anchors or door screws go. Just pre-puncture them all before you try and put the panel back on. The anchors will push right through. Same for the 2 screws. And same for the cables. I just laid the dynamat over cables and used the razor to cut the dynamat somewhat along the cable so it could move enough to plug back in without fighting me from being too tightly pressed to the door.

Now to go crazy (like I did) you could trim up a bunch pieces to press INSIDE the door. Someone somewhere on here mentioned the lower forward corner (behind the speaker) seemed to make a big improvement. I started there and couldn't stop. Double layered the whole thing.

If you do the inner door panel you'll need the gloves as the roller fits in some areas but not all and you have to press some of the material with your fingers. The metal backing can get your fingers.

Then just make sure the cables are all connected before you put the panel back on. Line up the top lip, push down so it lines up with the buttons and give firm bump where all the plastic anchors are.


Took some pics if you're interested. Made a big difference. Give yourself 30-45 minutes per door.

Hope this helps.

 

[94383Z71]

You mentioned somewhere you are seeing 23 to 24 psi boost on your ultragauge, have you been to a dyno to see what kind of numbers you're putting down? I looked around but didn't see anything. Also, have you checked out your mass air flow numbers?

Are you holding that kind of boost all up through the rev range or does it peak that high and then start trailing off?

I'm trying to get a feel for the power numbers and g/s when reaching those higher boost numbers.

Thanks in advance!

I have not been on a dyno, since I'm still in a relatively rapid succession of mods so there's not a lot of point. There's a dyno class where I go to school, I'm gonna try to get it on there if I can. If not it'll be next summer before I hit a dyno.

I plan on doing the bypass bypass, so it'll be more steady then, but last I looked it was. I don't spend a lot of time in the higher revs because I haven't ported the IM so it just doesn't do much for me. I'll throw a page together with boost/grams per second/HP2/TQ2 later, see what data I can get ya.

Just did this today.

Took some pics if you're interested. Made a big difference. Give yourself 30-45 minutes per door.

Hope this helps.

I appreciate it! I've had the panels most of the way off for the lock knob delete, so I'm somewhat familiar there. I have been debating doing the outer door skin as well, and you may have convinced me- I'll have to look at how much footage I have and budget it out. Thanks!

I'm still working on a solution that lets me tear the car down for a few days and do all this.

 

[Hulty]

I don't know that I'll ever move away from the stock HU, and if I do it will most likely be a dash mounted tablet.

Exhaust has been very tricky for me too. RDSS and MPFab's videos have helped a lot. I'm going to stick with the stock catback first and modify it from there.

Edit: I've never dynamatted before, any tips?

Brother, I will happily chat with you over the phone about the Dynamat if you'd like, it's the one single mod that drastically changes the class of vehicle the Sonic is placed in by my opinion.

Do the bypass/bypass ASAP, the consistency in the numbers for boost/VAC is so refreshing to see. I'll talk that over with you too if you want. I think I mentioned in my thread how easy it was for me and if you have the same luck the mod will take fifteen minutes, $1, and is 100% reversible at any time.

I like what you're doing, and I'm enjoying how much you're taking an active role in the forum. Anything you need from me, you got it.

 

[94383Z71]

Hulty, I appreciate the kind words! I may very well take you up on your offer sometime. I have been enjoying this forum immensely, and have been trying to give back with some knowledge. I may soon join the supporter ranks as well!

The dynamat I'm really looking forward to, and was actually how I ended up at your build the first time! The holdup on that and the sound system is simply getting a time where I can do it all in one shot, or two separate ones.

I have been holding off on the bypass bypass and the IM porting because of their perceived difficulty or complications. You have encouraged me to do it sooner than I had planned- if I don't start the audio stuff Sunday, that's what I'll be doing instead.

 

[Hulty]

I'm not sure if you saw on my build what I did for my mani, but being that i'm fully warranted to 100K miles, I bought a separate mani off Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market for $120 shipped. Took the Sonic's out, stored it clean in a box, and it's there in case of the worst case scenario - blowing up my engine and having no choice but to tow it to my house to restore all to stock prior to towing it to the dealer.

 

[94383Z71]

Indeed I did. I admire the dedication it takes to go through that, but all I have for a warranty is myself, so I'm not concerned there. Just lazy really

I'm sure once I do it I'll be disappointed I waited so long

 

[Hulty]

Indeed I did. I admire the dedication it takes to go through that, but all I have for a warranty is myself, so I'm not concerned there. Just lazy really :wink:

I'm sure once I do it I'll be disappointed I waited so long

If you use a Dremell like I did, it's a piece of cake. I would NOT recommend doing it without removing it like I've seen others do.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

You guys fire me up. Good to see all the positivity going around.

 

[Hulty]

You guys fire me up. Good to see all the positivity going around.

I keep trying to tell my wife that I'm only selectively an a$$hole, maybe I can have you tell her.

 

[94383Z71]

I keep trying to tell my wife that I'm only selectively an a$$hole, maybe I can have you tell her.

hahaha I'm going to use that.

Pretty much all installs are on hold right now. I got slammed with some major stuff to do at school and work, just won't have the free time in the coming 3-4 days. I plan to have it done before I leave for school on the 23nd.

 

[Hulty]

hahaha I'm going to use that.

Pretty much all installs are on hold right now. I got slammed with some major stuff to do at school and work, just won't have the free time in the coming 3-4 days. I plan to have it done before I leave for school on the 23nd.

Understood young padawan, you'll get there in due time...