P0325 - Knock sensor?
- Thread starter 2o6
- Start date
Still seeking help here.
Mechanic put on a new knock sensor but no change. The car still has issues; and even still there was power going to the sensor anyway.
The codes I have now are
P0227 - I replaced the Baro sensor near the charge pipe to the intercooler
P0238
P0236
P112D
P0325
For what it’s worth, I have a stock tune and 146k miles.
Mechanic put on a new knock sensor but no change. The car still has issues; and even still there was power going to the sensor anyway.
The codes I have now are
P0227 - I replaced the Baro sensor near the charge pipe to the intercooler
P0238
P0236
P112D
P0325
For what it’s worth, I have a stock tune and 146k miles.
Last edited:
Hey guys,
So this code just popped up on my '12 turbo. Now I know where the sensor is but let's talk about the connector, since it seems to be the primary culprit. Besides, it doesn't cost me anything to check the harness first. Is the connector available separately? Can I just fix the original connector? What's the best fix?
So this code just popped up on my '12 turbo. Now I know where the sensor is but let's talk about the connector, since it seems to be the primary culprit. Besides, it doesn't cost me anything to check the harness first. Is the connector available separately? Can I just fix the original connector? What's the best fix?
OK, so since nobody bothered to help a sister out, I had to go it alone.
First, yes, the connector is available separate. I saw it listed on Rockauto for half price of what I paid for it at the local Chevy dealer. If I could have waited, I would have ordered it to save the money, but the car was running so poorly I had to get it fixed.
The fact that Chevy has a replacement connector available tells me that they know the original pigtail in the harness is **** and this is the fix.
So if you're new to this problem, search the code (P0325) and check out the thread by TheLorax. In one of the replies, there is a diagram that shows the location of the sensor. It is obscured from view because of brackets and wiring but it's mounted toward the top rear of the block, just below the head.
Yesterday, I attempted this repair from under the car. I remove the tray under the engine to allow me access. After I shorted my ratchet, I decided it might be prudent to disconnect the battery. You might want to do that first. Then I was able to locate the sensor and plug. I removed the sensor but I did not replace it. That allowed me a better view of what I was doing. The two wires that come out of the harness and go to the sensor are small, 18 gauge I think. At the point where they go into the pigtail, they felt really flimsy, like the wiring inside the insulation might be broken. Don't know that for a fact, but that's what it felt like, and with the fault that's probably a pretty decent bet. So I was able to get the pigtail disconnected from the sensor but there is very limited room, maybe 5"x7" in which to work. I have fairly small hands and it was tight even for me. I cut off the original pigtail as close as I could and stripped back the insulation on the harness. Not sure what GM uses, but that stuff is tough! As I said, I really didn't have a lot of room to work but I crimped on connectors on either wire and then crimped the new pigtail on to that. The new pigtail comes with a good deal of wiring so you have some wire to work with. The wire is also heavier than the original wire, 14 gauge I think. Then I wrapped it up with electrical tape and reassembled everything. I took it for a drive but it seemed to get worse.
Fast forward to this morning. I had to get this fixed as this is my only car legal to drive. So again, I put the car on ramps and removed the tray for access. But this time, rather than just trying to splice it where it was, I decided to get the best access I could. I disconnected the battery (of course) then disconnected the electrical from the alternator and starter. I removed the starter, disconnected the O2 sensor and the tach sensor (I didn't know that's what it was but I forgot to reconnect it when done and my tach didn't work!). I removed the brackets that were in the way and disconnected one or two more plugs. This gave me enough slack in the harness to push it up over the manifold where I would have room to work. Once I did that, I saw that one of my crimps from the previous attempt had failed. With room to work, I cut away a couple inches of the harness tape to expose more of the wire. I then crimped on new fittings and the replacement connector and then retaped all the exposed wiring harness. Then it was just a matter of reassembly in the reverse order.
Once that was done, I took it for a drive. Amazing how much better the car drives! I actually wonder if it has been a problem for longer than I realize as the car feels like new again. Even with the AC on, it's got some pep to it.
As with the other repairs I've had to do to my car so far (104,410 mile), this one wasn't particularly expensive, but it was somewhat time and labor intensive, at least for what needed to be done. And like I said, I didn't even replace the original knock sensor, only the connector.
First, yes, the connector is available separate. I saw it listed on Rockauto for half price of what I paid for it at the local Chevy dealer. If I could have waited, I would have ordered it to save the money, but the car was running so poorly I had to get it fixed.
The fact that Chevy has a replacement connector available tells me that they know the original pigtail in the harness is **** and this is the fix.
So if you're new to this problem, search the code (P0325) and check out the thread by TheLorax. In one of the replies, there is a diagram that shows the location of the sensor. It is obscured from view because of brackets and wiring but it's mounted toward the top rear of the block, just below the head.
Yesterday, I attempted this repair from under the car. I remove the tray under the engine to allow me access. After I shorted my ratchet, I decided it might be prudent to disconnect the battery. You might want to do that first. Then I was able to locate the sensor and plug. I removed the sensor but I did not replace it. That allowed me a better view of what I was doing. The two wires that come out of the harness and go to the sensor are small, 18 gauge I think. At the point where they go into the pigtail, they felt really flimsy, like the wiring inside the insulation might be broken. Don't know that for a fact, but that's what it felt like, and with the fault that's probably a pretty decent bet. So I was able to get the pigtail disconnected from the sensor but there is very limited room, maybe 5"x7" in which to work. I have fairly small hands and it was tight even for me. I cut off the original pigtail as close as I could and stripped back the insulation on the harness. Not sure what GM uses, but that stuff is tough! As I said, I really didn't have a lot of room to work but I crimped on connectors on either wire and then crimped the new pigtail on to that. The new pigtail comes with a good deal of wiring so you have some wire to work with. The wire is also heavier than the original wire, 14 gauge I think. Then I wrapped it up with electrical tape and reassembled everything. I took it for a drive but it seemed to get worse.
Fast forward to this morning. I had to get this fixed as this is my only car legal to drive. So again, I put the car on ramps and removed the tray for access. But this time, rather than just trying to splice it where it was, I decided to get the best access I could. I disconnected the battery (of course) then disconnected the electrical from the alternator and starter. I removed the starter, disconnected the O2 sensor and the tach sensor (I didn't know that's what it was but I forgot to reconnect it when done and my tach didn't work!). I removed the brackets that were in the way and disconnected one or two more plugs. This gave me enough slack in the harness to push it up over the manifold where I would have room to work. Once I did that, I saw that one of my crimps from the previous attempt had failed. With room to work, I cut away a couple inches of the harness tape to expose more of the wire. I then crimped on new fittings and the replacement connector and then retaped all the exposed wiring harness. Then it was just a matter of reassembly in the reverse order.
Once that was done, I took it for a drive. Amazing how much better the car drives! I actually wonder if it has been a problem for longer than I realize as the car feels like new again. Even with the AC on, it's got some pep to it.
As with the other repairs I've had to do to my car so far (104,410 mile), this one wasn't particularly expensive, but it was somewhat time and labor intensive, at least for what needed to be done. And like I said, I didn't even replace the original knock sensor, only the connector.
hammrdwn510
Member
Do you have a part number for the connector. I cannot find it anywhere on the web
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