I have a 2LZ Sedan and I'm wondering if anyone else had a problem with rattling from the trunk. It does not rattle much at all when the trunk is open but when I close it, certain notes rattle the hell out of it.:sadbanana: Any idea on what/where this originates? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Trunk rattles from my 2 12's
- Thread starter jtp17
- Start date
TIEfighter
New member
Another reason I stick to my stock sound system.
As a sound competitor, any time you install aftermarket subwoofers, you will almost always have trunk rattle. That being said there are things you can do. Sound deadening being most of it. You can use dynamat, fatmat, or i suggest audiotechnix just because of the cost. its about 70 dollars shipped for 25 sq feet. That much should be more than enough to get rid of alot of trunk rattle. Also look at using a mild spray foam into small areas of the trunk lid that make an "air pocket". any other questions please feel free to send me a PM 
Also seeing as its a sedan try firing the subs into the car. This will help the subs pressure load into the car instead of just the trunk.
As for it being certain notes. The lower the note the more the rattle. Lower note means longer wave length. Making more chance for things to rattle.
Also seeing as its a sedan try firing the subs into the car. This will help the subs pressure load into the car instead of just the trunk.
As for it being certain notes. The lower the note the more the rattle. Lower note means longer wave length. Making more chance for things to rattle.
Last edited:
As a sound competitor, any time you install aftermarket subwoofers, you will almost always have trunk rattle. That being said there are things you can do. Sound deadening being most of it. You can use dynamat, fatmat, or i suggest audiotechnix just because of the cost. its about 70 dollars shipped for 25 sq feet. That much should be more than enough to get rid of alot of trunk rattle. Also look at using a mild spray foam into small areas of the trunk lid that make an "air pocket". any other questions please feel free to send me a PM
Also seeing as its a sedan try firing the subs into the car. This will help the subs pressure load into the car instead of just the trunk.
As for it being certain notes. The lower the note the more the rattle. Lower note means longer wave length. Making more chance for things to rattle.
Thanks for the help, I plan to do some form of dynamat, I'll have to look into the audiotechnix. Any specific spray foam you've used in the past? I have a can of "great stuff", I think it's called. That could solve 90% of it because the trunk lid has so many pockets (or technically is a large pocket with many holes, lol).
Thanks for the quality info, now take your trash posts somewhere else. :blankface:
I knew it was going to happen. I'm trying to pinpoint the location(s) of the main rattling, so I figured I'd ask if anyone had done such work/found major parts that rattle.
Stock system is decent, I found that I prefer louder systems though. Especially because I drive windows down alot, wind noise drowns out most of the music from the stock system.
AxelRipper
Member
Curious if you've experienced this... As a bassist I've screwed around in the low range a bit, and it seems that G0 (24.5 hz apparently) vibrates EVERYTHING. Being a competitor have you found a frequency that will vibrate more than others?
i would suggest the low expansion style not the regular....
JT- it was the way it was stated. it should like a complaint about the quailty of the car and seemed like you where suprised
I should rephrase my statement as every note has the potential to rattle the car. The lowerthe note the harder it does so making it seem worse. To answer your question I haven't found a specific note that will as any not can depending on the decibel its played at. Example would be a 50 Hz tone might lightly rattle things at 140 decibels while 30 Hz would rattle the heck out of it at the same decibel level.
Most car audio setups are tuned between. 35-45 Hz for best quality of listening.
When we compete we find the peak frequency of the car and tune the box to the same frequency. It sounds terrible but in a trunk car last year I was doing mid 145 decibels.
With my sonic hatch I plan on being around a 146-147 just because of the peak frequency change.
Eric Smit
Enforcer
OHHHH. I did not realize you were trying to pinpoint locations, and while I realize you really tried to burn me, I don't really have any feelings so I'm not worried about it. A very common place of rattling is the license plate. Some material in between your plate and car skin might help.
-Eric Smit
-Eric Smit
I have 2 Lanzar 12" 4ohm 500w rms in a box that I made...which is going to be replaced by a probox enclosure. I'm running them off a Planet Audio dual channel 2000w peak, 500w/channel rms, 1400w rms @ 4-ohm (wired in series to get about 700w/sub). It's a starter project that I haven't the money to put into it at the time being.
Thank you
I've had many systems in my cars and I can honestly say that having One quality woofer with a quality amp will perform MUCH better than two woofers, and it will save space as well. Point in hand, I used to run (2) 12" Kicker Comps with a JBL amp, then switched to a single 12" Alpine Type-R with an Alpine amp and it killed whatever competition the Kicker's could've ever brought to the table. My next set up though, I'm hell bent on saving even more space so I'm going with a solid 8" woofer under the passenger seat and a strong amp under the driver seat. This way I get the bass I want, no rattling and no need for dynamat, foam etc.
Good luck with whichever way you finish your setup but if you stick with (2) 12's, I would DEF invest in Dynamat
Good luck with whichever way you finish your setup but if you stick with (2) 12's, I would DEF invest in Dynamat
For license plate rattle a good thing you could do is put 3mtape behind it.
Jtp if you don't mind me asking wheredid you run your power through the fire wall. I think I'm going to use the grommet on the drivers side but seeing if you've had any input
Yeah I went through that grommet. It's hell to get through cuz it's so thick, I started with trying to cut the hole out with a razor but eventually (if you don't mind a little burning rubber smoke) I got a dremmel with a pointed sanding tip and went straight through. It was a clean hole that was just the right size. And my car did not(and does not) smell like burnt rubber after the fact, in case you try this and are concerned.
After that, I ran it under the driver side plastics on the floor. They all pull up (with a little effort) pretty easily. Then, you can put it right under the passenger seat into the trunk. And for a ground, I ran the ground to the rear seat mounts (which can be seen from the trunk). I'll get some pictures up in a few hours after work.
