Chrish051873
senior member
Yep. It sucked
bad Wheel bearing
- Thread starter Chrish051873
- Start date
mja
Site Supporter
I have an ABS issue and am hoping it isn't wheel bearings, but at 77k miles I'll replace them first before moving to wiring/harness.
Edit - my code is C0040. Wheel bearing, wheel speed sensor, EBCM harness, or EBCM could be the problem.
A couple things about this old thread
1 - Always replace wheel bearings in pairs (or all 4 of them). It's hard to pinpoint left vs right bearing noise. When one goes the next will be close behind.
2 - Buy OEM GM wheel bearings. The aftermarket ones have lesser quality magnets that can trip the ABS light after install. The cheaper the wheel bearing, the worse the magnet. Especially the cheaper ones will lose magnetism from heat and abuse over time.
3 - Have an experienced shop press them in the knuckles. Too much work for a re-do if the bearing seats incorrectly or with too much pressure on the press. This is easy to mess up, even for an experienced DIY'er.
4 - Proper axle nut torque is critical, or the job will need to be done again.
Edit - my code is C0040. Wheel bearing, wheel speed sensor, EBCM harness, or EBCM could be the problem.
A couple things about this old thread
1 - Always replace wheel bearings in pairs (or all 4 of them). It's hard to pinpoint left vs right bearing noise. When one goes the next will be close behind.
2 - Buy OEM GM wheel bearings. The aftermarket ones have lesser quality magnets that can trip the ABS light after install. The cheaper the wheel bearing, the worse the magnet. Especially the cheaper ones will lose magnetism from heat and abuse over time.
3 - Have an experienced shop press them in the knuckles. Too much work for a re-do if the bearing seats incorrectly or with too much pressure on the press. This is easy to mess up, even for an experienced DIY'er.
4 - Proper axle nut torque is critical, or the job will need to be done again.
Last edited:
mja
Site Supporter
CV joints tend to pop/click/thump, wheel bearings growl/roar/grind and tend to get worse on the turn. Wheel will spin freely with either, but there will be vertical movement of the tire (off the ground/unloaded) if it's a wheel bearing. Lateral movement is likely tie rods.
Last edited:
rodslinger
Member
This is some information I should have searched for BEFORE replacing my LF wheel bearing last weekend. I replaced it the way I replaced all wheel bearings from 20 years ago. Press it off, press it on, go....
I didn't give one thought about there being a magnetic ring on the bearing for ABS and traction control and it bit me in the butt. The ABS light was on before the car even went 20 feet on the test drive. Replaced the bearing again this morning but made sure the magnetic ring was facing inward for the sensor to read it. All is well again.