1.4L DDMworks Intake - Officical announcement
- Thread starter Dave@ddmworks
- Start date
I've come up with two different solutions to the "Bad Vibes" problem that some of us experience after installing a DDM intake without the heatshield: one is simple and takes about 2 minutes; the other is a little more involved but far superior in my opinion.
Before I begin, let's take a look at the root of the problem. The mounting bracket for the heat shield attaches to the motor mount:
Can you see the problem? The motor mount is two pieces; the piece connected to the engine vibrates like crazy and moves around with the engine; the piece connected to the chassis remains stationary. Our bracket is attached to the side that moves around like crazy, but there's not enough room between the (moving and vibrating) bracket and the (stationary) chassis side of the motor mount. As a result, when the engine moves around in the bay, such as when turning and such, the bracket is making contact with the other side of the mount. Cue the god-awful jackhammer-under-the-hood vibrations.
Here you can see where the bracket has been rubbing
against the motor mount:
Here you can see damage to the motor mount:
For the easy (1 min) fix:
Simply loosen the bolt fixing the bracket to the engine mount a half turn. Rotate the bracket about 60-75 degrees counter-clockwise. Retorque the bolt.
This is a "good enough for now" fix. I personally didn't like it because it pushes the intake too far forward (to the front of the car). There's not enough slack in the MAF harness for my comfort.
For the proper, slightly more involved (20-30 min) fix:
Remember how there was no room between that corner of the bracket and the mount? It's because the hole in the bracket is in the wrong place! Let's move that little bastard. I'll leave the choice of hardware up to you, but I used what I had on hand: a cordless drill with drill bits and a dremel with a cut-off wheel, a cylindrical grinding bit, and a sanding bit.
Ideally, you want to choose a drill bit that is about the size of the original hole. Start out by drilling a 1/8" pilot next to the original hole but closer to the bend in the bracket. Then drill through with your full-size bit and hopefully you'll come up with two overlapping holes. Clean them up with the cut-off wheel, grinder, sander, whatever you like so that you have a fairly clean elongated hole, like so:
Reinstall the bracket and look at all that new-found clearance! :banana:
Button her up and call it a day.
Before I begin, let's take a look at the root of the problem. The mounting bracket for the heat shield attaches to the motor mount:
Can you see the problem? The motor mount is two pieces; the piece connected to the engine vibrates like crazy and moves around with the engine; the piece connected to the chassis remains stationary. Our bracket is attached to the side that moves around like crazy, but there's not enough room between the (moving and vibrating) bracket and the (stationary) chassis side of the motor mount. As a result, when the engine moves around in the bay, such as when turning and such, the bracket is making contact with the other side of the mount. Cue the god-awful jackhammer-under-the-hood vibrations.
Here you can see where the bracket has been rubbing
against the motor mount:
Here you can see damage
to the motor mount:
For the easy (1 min) fix:
Simply loosen the bolt fixing the bracket to the engine mount a half turn. Rotate the bracket about 60-75 degrees counter-clockwise. Retorque the bolt.
This is a "good enough for now" fix. I personally didn't like it because it pushes the intake too far forward (to the front of the car). There's not enough slack in the MAF harness for my comfort.
For the proper, slightly more involved (20-30 min) fix:
Remember how there was no room between that corner of the bracket and the mount? It's because the hole in the bracket is in the wrong place! Let's move that little bastard. I'll leave the choice of hardware up to you, but I used what I had on hand: a cordless drill with drill bits and a dremel with a cut-off wheel, a cylindrical grinding bit, and a sanding bit.
Ideally, you want to choose a drill bit that is about the size of the original hole. Start out by drilling a 1/8" pilot next to the original hole but closer to the bend in the bracket. Then drill through with your full-size bit and hopefully you'll come up with two overlapping holes. Clean them up with the cut-off wheel, grinder, sander, whatever you like so that you have a fairly clean elongated hole, like so:
Reinstall the bracket and look at all that new-found clearance! :banana:
Button her up and call it a day.
Last edited:
KartRacer
Member
So we are now at the end of October, has the fit net issues been resolved on current stock. Seeing this intake as a premium item. Also what are advantages if any on all stock drive line, for now anyway.
Also have not been able to view dyno charts. Could be the iPad. Or the images are no longer available.
Also have not been able to view dyno charts. Could be the iPad. Or the images are no longer available.
sonic24740
Zippy
I had no fitment issues with mine but i also bought the shield with it.
Obviously Tyler
New member
I installed my DDMworks 1.4 intake yesterday. I had the same problem that River Rat posted about. I rotated the bracket and most of the vibrating went away. But I'm still getting a slight rattle during a left turn, maybe it's just me. Anyone else still struggling with it?
Maybe I'll have to keep tweaking it..
Maybe I'll have to keep tweaking it..
If you have the problem I did, then I recommend that you elongate the mounting hole in the bracket as I posted previously. I also recommend that you check the clearance between the hood prop rod and the aforementioned bracket because that can be the source of some vibration as well. Finally, post pictures of the problem area if you can find it for further recommendations.
Obviously Tyler
New member
These pictures are pretty bad. But this is how it looks right now. Nothing is touching and nothing is coming in contact with anything, other than the MAF and hood prop, yet I'm still getting a slight vibration around left turns. It drives me nuts. I'll probably try making the hole in the bracket bigger whenever I get around to it.
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1980PontiacWagon
New member
quick question for anyone with the newer cone style K&N filter. Could you post the part number for that filter? I've tried E-mailing DDM, but never got a reply.
Thanks
Thanks
1980PontiacWagon
New member
Thanks River_Rat!
Dave@ddmworks
Supporting Vendor
Just an FYI, we are also finishing up testing Dryflow filters from AEM on our intake as an option. They cost a little more than the stock K&N filters we use since we buy so many K&N filters in bulk, but a great option for those that are looking for one of the Dry Filters on our intake. The option is available on our website now, but we will be holding the orders until after the weekend to make sure our testing shows everything is good with them before we ship.
Thanks!
Dave
Thanks!
Dave
Dave@ddmworks
Supporting Vendor
After testing out the filters, they are working well. The fuel trims are still in acceptable levels, which means that the air flow meter is not seeing any weird turbulence, so we are shipping the first batches of intakes with the AEM filters as an option today!
2014 Blue RS
Active member
Just figured out I'm missing the bracket. Bought it used on here. Just ordered the tune so maybe they'll be nice and send me a bracket.
