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The M32 Martyr
The black areas on the outside are a mirror indication of where the rod has travelled inside. It took me a bit to get over the fact that brazing, even when done correctly doesn't look pretty. The best you can hope for is to make it look even, with minimal lumping.
Also, it is quite different than solder. Solder travels through capillary action with the assistance of flux. Braze rod travels through heat. So technically once it's hot and you push a decent amount of rod in, you can take the rod away and just continue to work the amount you've fed by pushing it around with the heat. If you don't get the desired coverage, shove a couple more inches of rod in and work it around with the heat some more.
It's been a while since I've done 1", but I think 1 rod per 2 to 3 joints is about right. Also, 15% silver ain't cheap, so when a rod gets down to the last couple inches, you can hold it against a new rod and fuse the ends with a little heat. Then you can bend it 180deg to get your old stub sticking off the end of the new rod. This way you don't end up with a bucket full of wasted (costly) stubs in the end.
Also, it is quite different than solder. Solder travels through capillary action with the assistance of flux. Braze rod travels through heat. So technically once it's hot and you push a decent amount of rod in, you can take the rod away and just continue to work the amount you've fed by pushing it around with the heat. If you don't get the desired coverage, shove a couple more inches of rod in and work it around with the heat some more.
It's been a while since I've done 1", but I think 1 rod per 2 to 3 joints is about right. Also, 15% silver ain't cheap, so when a rod gets down to the last couple inches, you can hold it against a new rod and fuse the ends with a little heat. Then you can bend it 180deg to get your old stub sticking off the end of the new rod. This way you don't end up with a bucket full of wasted (costly) stubs in the end.