EVAP Purge Valve Replacement 2015 Chevy Sonic 1.4 Turbo Hatchback LTZ

[Legasov91]

Hi all,

I recently had to replace the EVAP Purge Valve on my 2015 Chevy Sonic 1.4 Turbo Hatchback LTZ. But there are currently no guides on how to perform this procedure on this model since it comes with distinct clamps and clips. I've also seen some people on this forum breaking or damaging these parts because they couldn't figure out how to remove them properly. So I've decided to write up this guide on how to replace them.

The Duralast PV704 does not fit this vehicle (even though AutoZone says it does). I bought the ACDelco 55573017 instead.

There are 3 connections between the valve and the car we must disconnect:



CONNECTION 1
Pinch and squeeze the bumpy and ridged ring from both sides, and lift upwards.





CONNECTION 2

This connection has 2 locks:

A. The blue, arrow-shaped piece, which prevents the latch from being compressed.
This part does not come off completely. Do not try to remove it. Just jimmy/pry it outwards a few millimeters using a very thin slotted screwdriver.

 

[Legasov91]

B. The latch, which holds onto the electrical part.
After jimmying/prying the blue "arrow", press on the latch downwards, and remove the cable from the socket.
View attachment 16076
View attachment 16077

CONNECTION 3
This connection also has 2 locks. Both of them are C shaped. The first is blue, and the second is white.

In order to remove the blue lock, jimmy/pry the two curved ends in opposite directions, and pull the whole lock outwards.



After removing the blue lock, the white lock will appear underneath.

In order to remove the white lock, pry one end of the lock outwards using a very thin tool; push the lock slightly outwards; insert a thin piece of metal on the back side of the lock so that it doesn't fall back into place (I used a SIM card remover); pry the other end of the lock outwards; push the whole lock out.

The white lock looks like this:


The hands of the lock are difficult to reach and pry open, so you have to use a thin and long tool to reach and pry them open.



This is the back of the white lock:


After prying one of the hands and pushing the lock outwards slightly, here's the SIM Card Remover I used to keep the lock from getting back into place:


Then pry the second hand, and remove the lock outwards completely:


That's it. Now you can remove the 3rd connector, and remove/replace the valve.

 

[Legasov91]

Here's the reason I replaced the valve.
The car stalled on idle, rough idling, hesitant, lost power at high speeds.
First, the CEL came on. Code was P0035. Replaced ECM. Didn't help.
CEL came on again. Code was P0171. Replaced camshaft cover to replace the PCV valve. This was covered under special coverage N192210230. Didn't help.
Replaced EVAP purge valve. Idling problems solved.

 

[dsatwork]

Hey I can't tell you how helpful this post was for me...I don't think I could have figured out the connectors without this information.

 

[aragno]

Here's the reason I replaced the valve.
The car stalled on idle, rough idling, hesitant, lost power at high speeds.
First, the CEL came on. Code was P0035. Replaced ECM. Didn't help.
CEL came on again. Code was P0171. Replaced camshaft cover to replace the PCV valve. This was covered under special coverage N192210230. Didn't help.
Replaced EVAP purge valve. Idling problems solved.

What sort of idling issues were you experiencing?

 

[shorebreeze]

Useful info. This went out a few years ago on my 2014. I was totally defeated by the odd arrangement of the connectors. My retired mechanic friend's son who is even more into cars than his dad (who himself was a car mechanic at a Chevy dealership and then a truck mechanic at a mine) had it sorted in two minutes. Part still works great.