2013 Chevy Sonic LT is leaking fluid somewhere but there's no visible leak I have to refill the reservoir almost everyday even when I refill the fluid my heater doesn't work it only works for a few seconds and then it goes straight back to cold I have a 11 month old daughter that I have to drive within this vehicle so I need to figure out something to do to fix it I've already replaced the thermostat about 2-3 months ago I just had to replace valve gasket covers on it because oil was on one of the spark plug I really need to know what I can do to fix it and get it running back up to the way it was running when I got it about 6 months ago. Sorry if something came out wrong I was using talk to text LOL
heater problems and coolant leak
- Thread starter Brittle
- Start date
Gobinator98
Member
Look at your water pump. They are known to fail at a relatively low mileage. Also check the thermostat housing for cracks and check and of your hoses.
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We had a 1.8 that leaked at the firewall. At 180k, the O-rings in those fittings probably have been shot for a long time.
I posted about this a while ago with the part number for the O-rings at my local Menard's. You probably only need to change the O-rings. Maybe search the forums and find it.
I posted about this a while ago with the part number for the O-rings at my local Menard's. You probably only need to change the O-rings. Maybe search the forums and find it.
JTee2017
Well-known member
That sounds like a great practical fix with the O-rings.
Link to your post or thread with the size of the )-ring form Menard's?
I tried going back and looking at your past posts and couldn't find the info you mention in a several threads about the O-ring you used.
We think there may be a leak starting at the fire wall and for others reading this would help a lot. Owners could go and get a couple O-rings and have them on hand before they start loosing a lot of coolant.
JTee2017
Well-known member
GM Part number? I ask, because GM changes part numbers often on the same part. . . and price can vary.
Here is what I posted a while ago...
Took it apart this afternoon and went to the local GM parts counter. The plastic connectors are part numbers 95089364 an 95089363 - forgot which is which. These are non-stock items and the large dealer said he never sold any of them. $27 for both, tax included. But, I can't order them because I left my wallet at home and special orders are prepaid only...
So we get to looking at them and notice that the one that was leaking basically had no O-ring in it. It was there, but it was at best a D-ring, with the flattened side supposed to be making the seal. OK, if I can find a new O-ring that will solve it...
Go home and get my wallet, then head to Menard's. The plumbing guy there knows me by name and they have O-rings in dozens of sizes. Their UNION #2 O-ring 1 -1/8 x 7/8 was literally perfect, and $1.09 each. I bought two.
Replaced O-rings in both fittings and re-installed. Refilled Dexcool and sprayed down the mess I had made. Test drove the car, no problems noted.
Warning: You need a good amount of Vaseline on these to get them to slide over the metal tube and lock in place when they are not worn. I tried one "drier" than the other and no-go. Lubed it and bingo, it goes on with a nice tight seal.
Total cost of repair $2.31 plus some Dexcool I had in the garage
Took it apart this afternoon and went to the local GM parts counter. The plastic connectors are part numbers 95089364 an 95089363 - forgot which is which. These are non-stock items and the large dealer said he never sold any of them. $27 for both, tax included. But, I can't order them because I left my wallet at home and special orders are prepaid only...
So we get to looking at them and notice that the one that was leaking basically had no O-ring in it. It was there, but it was at best a D-ring, with the flattened side supposed to be making the seal. OK, if I can find a new O-ring that will solve it...
Go home and get my wallet, then head to Menard's. The plumbing guy there knows me by name and they have O-rings in dozens of sizes. Their UNION #2 O-ring 1 -1/8 x 7/8 was literally perfect, and $1.09 each. I bought two.
Replaced O-rings in both fittings and re-installed. Refilled Dexcool and sprayed down the mess I had made. Test drove the car, no problems noted.
Warning: You need a good amount of Vaseline on these to get them to slide over the metal tube and lock in place when they are not worn. I tried one "drier" than the other and no-go. Lubed it and bingo, it goes on with a nice tight seal.
Total cost of repair $2.31 plus some Dexcool I had in the garage
JTee2017
Well-known member
Thanks ! Will get the O-rings from Menard's and may even get the connectors since they are $10.57 with shipping for the pair at gmoverstockparts.
We had the same issue with the connectors on our 2010 Colorado. Although, the connector itself cracked off and failed in that case. Fortunately, I knew they would fail from reading on a forum and bought two off Amazon. Had them in the glove box after pulling off the to the road side and had to call family to bring some Dexcool.
It makes me feel sad for many who cannot do it themselves and suffer extensive damage or repair bills because of these simple plastic or rubber o-rings failing.
Love our Sonic. .. . and there are known "wear" or "part aging " issues that are cheap enough to repair and keep it running. our Daughter has a 2014 Sonic hatch with 130K miles on it and has only had few thing like purge solenoid, cracked vacuum connect at the intake manifold ( a repair shop broke that !), a t-stat housing that was covered under warranty at 77,000 miles, spark plugs and timing belt replaced at 97,000 miles. Otherwise, just 3 sets of ties. Not sure if she even has had brakes done yet.
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