My recommendations on first actions:
1. Sign up for American Motorcyclist Association membership (with MoTow).
2. Sign up for a subscription to Motorcycle Consumer News (the American publication, not the British one). You won't find it on the shelves in the supermarket. Bonus: many past issues are available online in pdf
3. AMA/MSF New rider training course.
4. Start shopping gear. Save up ~$1000-1500 for gear:
- Work with someone to find a comfortable helmet that fits- snug without being tight, nor loose. No pressure points. Wear the ones that seem right around the store for 10 - 15 minutes, to let the helmet-to-head interaction show you if an all-day adventure would work.
- Boots are a must (~$120-$200). I recommend avoiding laces. Ankle protection is key. Don't worry about steel toes- great for construction, not much help for rides (or crashes).
- A decent jacket (~$300-500). given DFW temperatures, lean toward light color perforated leather. Superior protection to mesh, and better cooling than zipper-vented jackets. Go for CE protection (safety spec that includes padding in the shoulders, elbows)
- Leather pants (~$200-$400). Again, perforated leather is best. You can go with denim pants- not Levis or Wranglers or whatever, but denim designed for motorcycling. What's the difference? Better weave, better stitching (double stitched, reinforced where needed), extra layers at knees/buttocks/hips, and the cut is such that it won't ride up when sitting on a bike. If you do go the denim route, seriously consider off-road style knee protectors to wear underneath. I put a pumpkin-sized dent in the fender of a Ford Taurus with a pair of these, and walked away from the accident.
If you do go leather jacket/leather pants, try to get ones that zip together in the back. When you see the jackets and pants, you'll know what I'm talking about.
- gloves (~$100+). Same deal. Leather gauntlets are the best. Vents are decent on them.
- back protector- optional. Most jackets come with some thin form of padding in the back.
- Helmet camera (Contour, GoPro). Helps keep people honest.
cndctrdj is right.Started looking at gear and have a question.
I see helmets that are $60 all the way to $500 bucks. What's the difference?
Coming from an MTB world, the higher priced helmets are mainly all about weight, or rather lack thereof, even though helmets already weight little to a non-weight weenie such as myself. It's mostly a marketing gimmick for those who want the latest team color schemes and current-year designs, although I fail to see how at '13 helmet is different from the '14 helmet and why anyone would care.
Is it the same in the motorcycle word or are there other advantages to pricier helmets?
Finally something I can relate to. Though I am 4 years off the bike and in a "cage" (Sonic), I purchased a 2006 Suzuki Vstrom 650 (DL650) V-twin adventure/touring bike. I bought the bike after a recommendation from a friend who rides Ducattis. She (yes she) had a friend who sold his Ducatti to help fund a home purchased, and afterwards wanted to still ride and got a DL650. It came highly recommended. I went an purchased mine without a test ride. It had approx 67 hp (peak), 5.8 gal tank, and got 42-45 mpg out here in SOCAL fwy riding (that's 75-80 mph). The 650 engine is the same engine from a SV650 (with a cam and minor fuel mapping differences) and last a long time. 100k is the norm if taken care of, and best of all on pre 2014 models (as they did a rework of the DL650 for 2014 and now the DL1000 too) you can snap up a complete engine/trans from a SV650 with less than 10k miles on it (for a spare) for less than $800 if you look around.
With my 2006, I put 50k miles on it in 4 years. Rode year round. Fuel range was approx 230-240 miles per tank. I rode to vegas from san diego numerous times with a single stop for gas (plus your ass gets sore around 200 miles anyway).
Maint. on the DL650 is super easy. You do oil change every 5k miles (I used Amsoil), Tires every 5-9k miles (depends on your riding style, weather, and tires used), chain sprockets usually 16k miles, initial valve adjustment @ 16.5k(mine was a check @ 17k.. no adjustment needed) with an air filter change at the same time, then just have them checked every 17k there after. Oil, tires, chain/sprocket, air filter, check valves @17k... repeat. That's it. Very comfortable bike, great riding position, VERY RELIABLE, and if it wasn't for my damn divorce I would still have one.
I will buy another in the next year.
Oh on insurance. Unless you are a seasoned rider with experience they will burn you for a few years. I used Dairyland and another place thereafter (I'd have to find it again), but got full coverage, $100 deductible and 100/300k for $198 a year coverage. The place only does PWC and motorcycles. Ask on adventure rider forums, someone there will point you in the right direction.
I found a used V-strom 650 ABS (2011) for $6100. It's got a hair over 11k miles on it. Sounds like a good deal, I think.
Regardless, I'm not buying until very late this year at the earliest, unless I stumble upon unexpected money and get ahead financially faster than that. I'm just getting myself all hot and bothered looking at bikes.
Started looking at gear and have a question.
I see helmets that are $60 all the way to $500 bucks. What's the difference?
Coming from an MTB world, the higher priced helmets are mainly all about weight, or rather lack thereof, even though helmets already weight little to a non-weight weenie such as myself. It's mostly a marketing gimmick for those who want the latest team color schemes and current-year designs, although I fail to see how at '13 helmet is different from the '14 helmet and why anyone would care.
Is it the same in the motorcycle word or are there other advantages to pricier helmets?