Help needed with aa-gm44 and Rockford PBR300x4 install.

[JWV]

I figured this would be the place to ask as I have seen quite a few threads involving these items on here. To begin, I have never installed an amp before. I removed the factory radio, hooked up the aa-gm44 to that with harness adapter it came with which is connected to the input side of the aa-gm44. I have the output side with RCA cables going to the amplifier. I connected power to the aa-gm44 via the cigarette lighter positive wire below center counsel. Grounded it at one of the grounds below there as well. I have the amp powered and grounded but it own't turn on. The aa-gm44 turns on fine and I even get music through all 4 speakers.

From what I understood after reading about this combo of parts is that there is no splicing involved at all. However, I have nothing plugged into the speaker outputs on the amp next to the power/ground molex. Should I have the speakers plugged in there? If so, I assume that would require splicing, leading to my confusion. I know this is elementary stuff for the car stereo guys but I just can't seem to find a description or picture. I can get pics of what I have done if that helps.

 

[2THEXTRM]

With that unit, you must run a separate amp turn on lead from amp to switched power such as cig lighter. Think this info is buried in the instructions somewhere

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[JWV]

With that unit, you must run a separate amp turn on lead from amp to switched power such as cig lighter. Think this info is buried in the instructions somewhere

Sent from my XT1254

It is suppose to turn on just by getting signal from the speakers, but I did run the remote line to the remote power line on the aa-gm44. The amp is turned on now but I don't think it is actually amping the speakers.

 

[2THEXTRM]

If you didn't run new speaker wires from amp to speakers you're in for a fun time cutting up the gm44 harness as you have to jump over the speaker wires that connect to rear of deck. I had to do this for my friends Cruze to add an amp to power factory speakers through factory wires couple months ago.

PAC tech line is actually very helpful

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[JWV]

If you didn't run new speaker wires from amp to speakers you're in for a fun time cutting up the gm44 harness as you have to jump over the speaker wires that connect to rear of deck. I had to do this for my friends Cruze to add an amp to power factory speakers through factory wires couple months ago.

PAC tech line is actually very helpful

Sent from my XT1254

Dang. I thought the whole point was to avoid any of that. Running new wires from the amp to the speakers actually sounds easier than the harness splicing.

 

[2THEXTRM]

Me too until I received and traced how the harness worked. Noticed it wasn't going to work the way I expected without some significant cutting and soldering.

It's still easier and quicker than pulling all the door panels and trim including tweeter pillar with airbag to run new speaker wires though

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[Stefan2k]

Here is a connector that will let you piggy back onto the radio fuse. that way your amp will cut on and off with the car.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41a30ow+0DL.jpg

Then you can cut into the Pac harness rather than your car harness. this way you run the speaker wires from your amp straight to the harness and it will send a signal to the speakers and you dont have to go into your doors.

Hmmm, uh I would think if your running a amp your going into the doors anyway. So with that thought a decent pair of midrange speakers of basic coaxials will do fine. The radio has the rear speakers tuned to a specific frequency range so you won't get much of a signal beyond 90hz. Don't buy cheap speakers either, you need speakers in the rear that go down to 35hz in order to get better than factory sound. Also when replacing the front speakers go for a pair that has a low frequency response 35hz and up. The Sonic sounds good stock so you have to pony up the bucks or you will regret it.

I just replaced front and rears in my 2014 with soundstream 3 ways in the rear and components in the front and they didnt match the factory bass output. I dont mean booming bass but fullness and richness. They did sound clean and clear, but without the low end they where a compromise.

2014 Chevrolet Sonic Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Red/Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: N/A
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Black
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 3-1/2″
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Black

 

[JWV]

Last night I just ran new speaker wire to all of the doors. It surprisingly only took me an hour to do with the driver side being by far the most difficult. But got everything hooked up, checked my pos/neg in triplicate. I've got power to the amp, but no sound to the speakers. I think I may have the RCA's hooked up incorrectly but I guess I will just have to play around with it.

 

[2THEXTRM]

That's about how long it took me to properly mod the PAC harness, not bad then. It's likely the switch set-up you choose for the in and out of unit needs to be changed if everything else is correct.

Also the positive/negative speaker connections if incorrect would only place the speaker out of phase that you would notice reduced sound quality, it would still produce sound though.

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[JWV]

That's about how long it took me to properly mod the PAC harness, not bad then. It's likely the switch set-up you choose for the in and out of unit needs to be changed if everything else is correct.

Also the positive/negative speaker connections if incorrect would only place the speaker out of phase that you would notice reduced sound quality, it would still produce sound though.

Sent from my XT1254

Got it working! I checked and rechecked everything this morning. Finally, it dawned on me that I needed to adjust the gain/knows on the loc. Once I did music cranked. StI'll playing with it bit sounds awesome. I'm already planning on different rear speakers and a sub though. ..it's an addiction!

 

[2THEXTRM]

The simplest things sometimes lol. Enjoy the new fidelity

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[JWV]

The simplest things sometimes lol. Enjoy the new fidelity

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Will do! Man the door chime is loud though. I turned the dial down on the loc for the front left speaker but then it is lacking with music playing. Might have to just deal with a loud chime for the sake of more power!

 

[2THEXTRM]

The only side effect of adding amp to stock had unit is the door chime from hell that is meant to be heard over music from the factory

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[JWV]

So I am having a terrible time making this thing fit. You think it it is okay to splice in speaker where I marked in the picture so I can remote locate this thing?

 

[2THEXTRM]

There's not much room behind the factory radio for sure. Shouldn't be any issues lengthening wires if you use same gauge wire and solder connections, not butt connectors.

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[JWV]

There's not much room behind the factory radio for sure. Shouldn't be any issues lengthening wires if you use same gauge wire and solder connections, not butt connectors.

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Ended up being a great idea to lengthen the wires. Everything fit fine and I located the pac-loc behind the stick shift/under the stereo near the amp. So now I can remove one trim cover and have access to both easily.