Help with accessing spark plugs on 1.4 engine
- Thread starter key1cc
- Start date
Eric Smit
Enforcer
Thanks for all the valuble info.
Sorry for the delay ...wife...kids...you know how it is...
Anyway Autozone is about 10 minutes away and all I bought was a 5/8" spark plug socket (which I already had at home and did'nt realize it.)
Picture 1 shows the tools I'm using for the job. I already had the feeler gauge just hadn't opened it until now.
Picture 2 shows that I had to use a longer extender (fortunately I had that to).
Picture 3 shows the wrench in place to remove a spark plug. By the way I could not believe how easy they came out with almost no effort as if they were just hand tightened. Not sure if this is normal because I beleive I read someone else had to really put some muscle behind it to remove the plugs.
key1
FYI - Did you use anti-seize on the threads when you installed the plugs. I also use Dielectric grease on the boots to make sure they don't get stuck on the plug or in the well.
What was the need to check the plugs? At 900 miles they would show little to no wear at all.
ungawd
New member
There is an ongoing discussion about whether or not the factory plugs were properly gapped. He was just checking to ensure they were at .028"
key1cc
New member
Quite a few members checked there gaps and found that they were not at the factory specified 0.028 (as mine were not either) some members found even larger diferences and more importantly differences between the plugs (mine were acceptably close). I seem to run a little rough at idle (not a lot just not silky smooth). This occurs whether in eco mode or power mode and probally has a lot to do with my 5 mile stop and go commute to work taking about 13 minutes to get to work....Maybe the car has not warmed up sufficiently.
No I did not use anti-sieze because I expect to go back in this weekend and install all new iridium plugs.....that I will gap at 0.028 prior to me even opening the hood.
I will pick up some anti-sieze and use it then.
I did not gap them originally because I was exploring (learning) and considering I'm a rookie I may break an electrode tip or 2.
Changing the plugs is very easy on this car once you realize you have to move the coil pack 1st ....which takes less than a minute unscrewing 2 bolts. It is even easier than the oil change IMHO. I expect it to take 10-15 minues max the next time through....mabye less.
Key1
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Papasonic
Active member
When I decided to inspect the spark plug gap on my 1.4, I discovered that after removing the bolts that retain the coil pack, I still had difficulty lifting the coil pack up and off of the spark plugs. Instead of prying under the coil pack; I discovered there were tapped holes in the coil pack where the hold down bolts pass through. I assembled two compatible metric bolts in these tapped holes, and used them as handles to aid in grasping and lifting the coil pack from the spark plugs. I opened the gap from a factory set .026 to just over spec to .030. I use a side cutter plier to hook the outer electrode, and slightly bend it outward, wider than the intended gap; then using the back side of the same plier, I tap the outer electrode to adjust the gap. I used a wire type spark plug specific gauge to set the gap. (a wire gauge is the most accurate for spark plugs) I also used anti-sieze on the threads and dielectric grease inside the plug boots on the coil pack.
Papasonic
Papasonic
Papasonic
Active member
I use a Q-Tip to lightly coat the inside the plug boot with dielectric grease; just enough to coat it, not thick.
The anti-sieze I use has an applicator brush with which I apply a very thin amount to the threads only; keeping away from the electrode area. Don't fill the threads; just very light coat. (less is better than more)
Also wiping the porcelain portion of the plug clean is a good idea too; so as to assure that there is no conductive residue/material to cause an electrical flashover to the grounded/threaded portion of the plug.
When I install the spark plug; I attach a 4 inch piece of vacuum tubing that will fit snugly over the spark plugs' terminal. That allows me to position, turn, and start the sparkplug into the cylinder head without crossthreading. When it is as tight as I can turn the plug with the tubing attached; I pull off the tubing, and use socket wrenches to finish tightening and torque to spec.
Papasonic
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klystron
Banned
Pretty sure there is more than one spark plug socket size....
What are the torque specs on the plugs on the 1.4?
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klystron
Banned
Craftsman 4 pc. Spark Plug Socket Set, 3/8 in. drive - Tools - Ratchets & Sockets - Sockets & Socket Sets
I hope I can post this link here. I am not advocating the sale of the product just showing that it exists.
laborsmith
New member
Two sizes the larger size is older and the picture of the socket is for newer.
I have spark plugs for older and I just checked and they are to large for the newer socket.
I seem to have misplaced the socket for the older.
Laborsmith
I too learn every day: four sizes. Who knew!
I have spark plugs for older and I just checked and they are to large for the newer socket.
I seem to have misplaced the socket for the older.
Laborsmith
I too learn every day: four sizes. Who knew!
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seanp1
Active member
13/16 and 5/8. The Champion plugs in my outboard take a 13/16
Key1CC: Thanks for this thread. I was wondering where in the hell the plugs were on the sonic! For easier reading, maybe you can put all the pics and tools n tips in the original post? Just a thought.
sx sonic
New member
Grand idea Sean.
While we're discussing it there is also another spark plug socket for the newer plugs that are coming out that can also monitor knock. I can't recall the size maybe 14. I'll look when I get home I bought one when I was a Bimmer tech but never used it.
Not sure on the torque specs, I've got an extended 3/8 drive ratchet and I pull with my pointer and middle finger just barely on the end, and pull until my fingers are strainin pretty hard. Normal length socket i'd do the same and then give it a little extra turn.
You could always try tightening a plug just a smidge and note how much effort it took and then duplicate that when you put them back in, if you try tackling this job before getting torque specs
While we're discussing it there is also another spark plug socket for the newer plugs that are coming out that can also monitor knock. I can't recall the size maybe 14. I'll look when I get home I bought one when I was a Bimmer tech but never used it.
Not sure on the torque specs, I've got an extended 3/8 drive ratchet and I pull with my pointer and middle finger just barely on the end, and pull until my fingers are strainin pretty hard. Normal length socket i'd do the same and then give it a little extra turn.
You could always try tightening a plug just a smidge and note how much effort it took and then duplicate that when you put them back in, if you try tackling this job before getting torque specs
seanp1
Active member
I was taught by a wise old man to torque plugs with 2 fingers much like your method.
