How to fix your stock PCV system and intake manifold

[Steelmesh]

I am working on fittings for the "Positive Pressure" side of the 1.4 PCV system, to make catch can installs easy or as a factory replacement for the hard plastic hose. I am looking at a design with a check ball on the intake manifold fitting, the purpose here is to create the most simple design possible with only 1 moving part, a high temp extra slick teflon ball. Otherwise, a spring/spring cup will be needed if I locate the fitting on the compressor inlet. It is WIP, I am actually going to characterize crank case pressures and then go from there with adding a catch can. Planning on using 0.500" ID 8AN hose.

Official Oil Catch Can Post for the 1.4T - Page 2

I plan on making it out of Aluminum, but during prototype I will make an ABS one for a day trial Proof-of-Concept

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

I am working on fittings for the "Positive Pressure" side of the 1.4 PCV system, to make catch can installs easy or as a factory replacement for the hard plastic hose. I am looking at a design with a check ball on the intake manifold fitting, the purpose here is to create the most simple design possible with only 1 moving part, a high temp extra slick teflon ball. Otherwise, a spring/spring cup will be needed if I locate the fitting on the compressor inlet. It is WIP, I am actually going to characterize crank case pressures and then go from there with adding a catch can. Planning on using 0.500" ID 8AN hose.

Official Oil Catch Can Post for the 1.4T - Page 2

I plan on making it out of Aluminum, but during prototype I will make an ABS one for a day trial Proof-of-Concept

What CAD program are you using?

 

[Steelmesh]

What CAD program are you using?

Inventor 2015, free for students :banana:

 

[Llia]

I am working on fittings for the "Positive Pressure" side of the 1.4 PCV system, to make catch can installs easy or as a factory replacement for the hard plastic hose. I am looking at a design with a check ball on the intake manifold fitting, the purpose here is to create the most simple design possible with only 1 moving part, a high temp extra slick teflon ball. Otherwise, a spring/spring cup will be needed if I locate the fitting on the compressor inlet. It is WIP, I am actually going to characterize crank case pressures and then go from there with adding a catch can. Planning on using 0.500" ID 8AN hose.

Official Oil Catch Can Post for the 1.4T - Page 2

I plan on making it out of Aluminum, but during prototype I will make an ABS one for a day trial Proof-of-Concept

very nice!

 

[skurtov]

bumping this thread out of curiosity.....

So xtremerevolution has a thread on cruzetalk about his kit. In my understanding we share the same 1.4t as the Cruze does. So the fix he is proposing should work the same way correct?

2011-2016 Cruze/Sonic/Trax 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve Fix

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

bumping this thread out of curiosity.....

So xtremerevolution has a thread on cruzetalk about his kit. In my understanding we share the same 1.4t as the Cruze does. So the fix he is proposing should work the same way correct?

2011-2016 Cruze/Sonic/Trax 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve Fix

I have this same fix on my car right now and it works beautifully. I would 10/10 recommend doing this.

 

[skurtov]

I have this same fix on my car right now and it works beautifully. I would 10/10 recommend doing this.

Thanks, was wondering if that would be a better method than baking my manifold in the oven

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

Thanks, was wondering if that would be a better method than baking my manifold in the oven

Install takes about 2-3 hours, but no baking is required. You will be without a vehicle for a full 24hrs when doing this fix. Gotta love epoxy.

 

[Gimpster]

I think I'll go that route as well. Looks pretty clean, but I might have that BNR plate exterior coated black to be a bit more low profile.

I'm 99% sure my car had the PCV fail on it before I bought it. The intake manifold is brand new on it....

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

I think I'll go that route as well. Looks pretty clean, but I might have that BNR plate exterior coated black to be a bit more low profile.

I'm 99% sure my car had the PCV fail on it before I bought it. The intake manifold is brand new on it....

Yeah, do the fix before that happens. Otherwise, you'll probably also end up loosing the valve cover too. It's inevitable for the failure unfortunately and it takes out a lot of stuff on the way.

On a side note, I'm actually wondering if the manifold PCV valve failure attributes to the stock WGA failing quicker. I found oil inside of my stock WGA from having a missing check valve in the manifold, and we all know what oil does to rubber.

 

[mja]

I realized I got busy with school/work and never gave an update. The consensus here was yes, the modified manifold worked well. A few problems I found made me switch to the stock manifold.

(1) the blocked off PCV runner in the intake manifold, the filler became tacky to touch after removing the hot manifold. No signs of drips or any blow through, but after a few thousand miles I just didnt trust it much. Technically that cured resin should be able to withstand much harsher conditions but it just didn't feel right. Maybe I'm paranoid but I'd switch the filler to JB weld if redoing.

(2) I found the size of the vac canister does matter for the BPV solenoid, the smaller one gave better results but my cheap dorman check valve seemed to have issues. A higher quality vacuum check valve designed for a turbo system would be better for this part. Bypassing the bypass valve solenoid may be the only reliable option unless someone makes a proper kit to fix these issues.

(3) the manifold is hard to remove with the tubing for maintenance purposes, I had to replace a couple hoses after they warped but then after using heavier duty reinforced steel hose, I had no issues. I'd plumb this thing with smooth pvc pipe if doing again.

So yes this fix can and did work without codes in the end, and with more resources could be made into an extremely reliable setup. For simplicity and cost I just went back to a new stock manifold. This project will run you about as much as a new stock manifold costs. Will be replacing with Racerxfab aluminum manifold soon, with their PCV kit. Unfortunately I'll have to bypass the bpv solenoid, I've just been hesitant to do that since I believe a fresh strong source of vacuum is how our cars were designed, and wanted to keep that integrated. Will see what I end up doing there.

 

[mja]

bumping this thread out of curiosity.....

So xtremerevolution has a thread on cruzetalk about his kit. In my understanding we share the same 1.4t as the Cruze does. So the fix he is proposing should work the same way correct?

2011-2016 Cruze/Sonic/Trax 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve Fix

Yes he came out with his kit after this manifold was being developed and it will work as a fix. It doesn't address the BPV solenoid check valve, see in this thread for more pictures.

Also, if anyone thinks it's okay to put a self tapping screw into nylon on the inside of the crankcase, you haven't been around engines long. Im sure dozens of people are using his fix but all it takes is one backed out or blown through screw and it's time for a new motor. Hope its not any of you on the forum. I think the cruze forum fix IS a good idea for a backup/temporary manifold. I'd personally go back to stocker or a properly modified one rather than keeping the screw-in-crankcase indefinitely.

 

[skurtov]

Yes he came out with his kit after this manifold was being developed and it will work as a fix. It doesn't address the BPV solenoid check valve, see in this thread for more pictures.

Also, if anyone thinks it's okay to put a self tapping screw into nylon on the inside of the crankcase, you haven't been around engines long. Im sure dozens of people are using his fix but all it takes is one backed out or blown through screw and it's time for a new motor. Hope its not any of you on the forum. I think the cruze forum fix IS a good idea for a backup/temporary manifold. I'd personally go back to stocker or a properly modified one rather than keeping the screw-in-crankcase indefinitely.

If you bypass that solenoid anyways why would it matter? Also, those self tapping screws are secured in with epoxy, in on and around. The manifold won't tend to heat soak since its composite but i can imagine over years the epoxy will start to get brittle.

 

[mja]

If bypassing the BPV solenoid... there's not a fresh vacuum source when manifold vac is low when the BPV poppet goes. GM engineers know what they're doing so I aimed to keep the vacuum canister. The old idea is vacuum accessories aren't needed for race cars, but mine is a daily. Once the BPV poppet goes, there is boost leak into the stock canister even with a new/clean PCV fix. I don't know how that effects flow to the runners or pressure differentials. I do know our vacuum canisters weren't designed to see boost opcorn:

What is offered in this thread is a way to keep the stock manifold function with fixes to both manifold issues. It's meant to be digested and improved on so ideas and comments help. It isn't perfect I'll give you that, but we have an aftermarket intake option now with a real PCV fix and no vacuum canister poppet to break. Before we didn't have that option.

As said before, resin wasn't brittle, no evidence of cracks. Actually the opposite, as if it was 95% cured after a few months. Which is odd because it cured overnight hard to the touch. I'm not a chemical engineer though so not sure how that effects long term plastic stability. You are right that my resin choice wasn't ideal, nylon with fiber and metal powder/grindings for strength and expansion would be a better choice.

The screw thing, if that epoxy or plastic loctite on threads makes people sleep better at night, sure. I say they're justifying their decision for putting a screw on the inside the engine bay through plastic

The reason for the through-bolt in this thread is because I've seen motors destroyed from nuts and bolts. A screw from inside the crankcase/PCV runner wasn't considered as an option. I've also been impressed with temporary and long term fixes from people using JB weld in the crankcase or oil pan. Yes, this manifold I doubt will last forever. Plastic gets old. I've seen engine internals fair alright against plastic pieces. Loose metal in the engine bay wins every time.

 

[Llia]

I am working on fittings for the "Positive Pressure" side of the 1.4 PCV system...

I plan on making it out of Aluminum, but during prototype I will make an ABS one for a day trial Proof-of-Concept

Did this get made?

I'm designing a Aluminum "T" fitting for the Bonomi 100012LF PCV valve to connect to directly.
This way all connections are on top of the manifold for easy access. Then use the "Brake Booster T" found in their Version 2 fix to connect to the PCV valve.
The other side of the "T" connects to the corrugated hard line to the turbo.
The T reuses the Metal Clip, the rubber o-ring and plastic o-ring retainter/washer found inside the original plastic connector.
Both sides are tapped for 3/8" NPT fittings. They sell a Bonomi 100012LF-3/8 on AMAZON


My main goal is having no manifold removal Fix.


one issue that could arise is the metal expanding more or less than the plastic manifold causing leaks.

 

[zomby woof]

Did this get made?


My main goal is having no manifold removal Fix.


.

Somebody brought this post to my attention and seeing your idea gave me an idea.


http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...ussion/24582-1-4t-pcv-repair-alternative.html

Rather than how I originally posted, instead of putting the TEE setup with PCV/Check valves on the valve cover, mount the TEE directly on the fitting used to plug the Corrugated hose port and use only a barb in the valve cover. Simpler and easier.

 

[gnonne]

This sounds workable, but I need some pictures... I really like to do the fix on my 2013 turbo sedan without taking off the intake. At 13k miles on a 2013 it should be 100% preventative, but it eventually needs to be done, and the easier, the better.

 

[Gio]

Recently had to replace my valve cover due to the PCV regulator leaking. My car has 45,000 miles on it and I am wondering how will I know when the intake goes bad? Will it still be drive able to get home?

 

[6speedti]

Found this from Dorman. I don't know if it was previously posted. Check it out.*

https://www.dormanproducts.com/pages/products/stories/intake-manifold.aspx

 

[Gio]

Found this from Dorman. I don't know if it was previously posted. Check it out.*

https://www.dormanproducts.com/pages/products/stories/intake-manifold.aspx

That is exactly what I needed to see. This should be a sticky. If I blow another PCV diaphragm I will change the valve cover and the intake manifold with Dorman parts.