DevilSonic89
New member
What should i buy for the charge piping??? and how much would that be???
Official 1.8 turbo thread
- Thread starter DevilSonic89
- Start date
DevilSonic89
New member
ok. i wonder if i can use silicone hoses.....would that work?? it would be easy to work with..
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
Yes. In fact, DDMW 1.4 Silicone kit would probably get you close to complete with an OEM intercooler.
Also, I'm sure he would be eager to help, because a functional turbo kit for the 1.8 should be very marketable, especially for the first vendor to offer it.
I see more people buying a 1.8 Conversion kit, than people buying a turbo upgrade kit for the 1.4T.
The first 1.8T is gonna be so epic. I can't wait.
Also, I'm sure he would be eager to help, because a functional turbo kit for the 1.8 should be very marketable, especially for the first vendor to offer it.
I see more people buying a 1.8 Conversion kit, than people buying a turbo upgrade kit for the 1.4T.
The first 1.8T is gonna be so epic. I can't wait.
DevilSonic89
New member
Yes. In fact, DDMW 1.4 Silicone kit would probably get you close to complete with an OEM intercooler.
Also, I'm sure he would be eager to help, because a functional turbo kit for the 1.8 should be very marketable, especially for the first vendor to offer it.
I see more people buying a 1.8 Conversion kit, than people buying a turbo upgrade kit for the 1.4T.
The first 1.8T is gonna be so epic. I can't wait.
can that work for me if i bought the DDM kit???????
mitdr774
also a dinner prick
Preloader, could you maybe double check my work here?
N/A airflow (110*6300*0.5*0.9)/1728=180.47 CFM I used 90% efficiency as I cant find anything to suggest that 95% is a reliable number to use.
To shoot for 275 CHP it appears I need 27.5 lbs/min. Since I could not come up with a proper density number (I tried but not all that hard) I used the number you did in the 1.4 thread.
Lbs/min=CFM*density of air
27.5 Lbs/min=X*0.069
X=398.55 CFM
CFM FI=PR*CFM N/A
398.55=X*180.47
X=2.21
PR= (14.7+PSIG)/14.7
2.21=(14.7+X)/14.7
X=17.787
If I am doing my math correct I come up with needed about 18 PSI and 27.5 Lbs/min to support 275 CHP. This should net me in the 225-250 WHP range.
N/A airflow (110*6300*0.5*0.9)/1728=180.47 CFM I used 90% efficiency as I cant find anything to suggest that 95% is a reliable number to use.
To shoot for 275 CHP it appears I need 27.5 lbs/min. Since I could not come up with a proper density number (I tried but not all that hard) I used the number you did in the 1.4 thread.
Lbs/min=CFM*density of air
27.5 Lbs/min=X*0.069
X=398.55 CFM
CFM FI=PR*CFM N/A
398.55=X*180.47
X=2.21
PR= (14.7+PSIG)/14.7
2.21=(14.7+X)/14.7
X=17.787
If I am doing my math correct I come up with needed about 18 PSI and 27.5 Lbs/min to support 275 CHP. This should net me in the 225-250 WHP range.
Last edited:
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
You got it. That all jives. The Density Ratio just further dials in the estimated CHP by considering the Intercooler efficiency and compressor efficiency.
But the formula you displayed is a great way to get ideas on where to go with your project. You can plug in the RPM that you would like to start making full boost (typically the RPM that the n/a engine makes peak torque) into the same equation to tell you the CFM or lbs/min that the turbo should be hitting its efficiency for your target PR.
Then you look at a compressor map of a turbo you are considering.
Plot a dot where the lbs/min meet the PR for both you peak power result and for your mid power result. You want those to plots to be straddling the map's efficiency island while also having a buffer between the plots and where the map ends.
tl;dr: your math is correct.
But the formula you displayed is a great way to get ideas on where to go with your project. You can plug in the RPM that you would like to start making full boost (typically the RPM that the n/a engine makes peak torque) into the same equation to tell you the CFM or lbs/min that the turbo should be hitting its efficiency for your target PR.
Then you look at a compressor map of a turbo you are considering.
Plot a dot where the lbs/min meet the PR for both you peak power result and for your mid power result. You want those to plots to be straddling the map's efficiency island while also having a buffer between the plots and where the map ends.
tl;dr: your math is correct.
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
When I punch in your targets into Garrett's app, these are the Garrett choices.
Next I would go through each one's compressor map and find where the to plots land.
The GT2252 still looks good, because it makes great usable power at 8psi, but also has the headroom when you able to boost 18psi.
Also unless you are building an all out Race Monster with an endless budget, I'd just ignore the GTX models.
Next I would go through each one's compressor map and find where the to plots land.
The GT2252 still looks good, because it makes great usable power at 8psi, but also has the headroom when you able to boost 18psi.
Also unless you are building an all out Race Monster with an endless budget, I'd just ignore the GTX models.
DevilSonic89
New member
Nice but im sticking with the K03 tho
but im sticking with the K03 tho
mitdr774
also a dinner prick
Not trying to start any arguing about what turbo is better at all. If the K03 meets the needs for the build you are going after, then by all means make the 1.8 crowd proud by pulling off good numbers.
I just have an issue with slapping a turbo on a stock N/A engine not really designed for positive manifold pressure in my own vehicle. Now if GM were to release a GMPP turbo kit for the engine it would think about it on a stock engine. GMPP performance upgrades are usually designed to stay in the limits of stock equipment. My goal will require a little more CHP than I really feel comfortable with on stock rods, without knowing the limits of them. I also have doubts about the stock pistons at those levels as well. If I knew the stock rods would hold to above my goal I would keep them.
Based on my past turbo experience I do kinda like something a little slower to spool up. My Cavalier was easy to putt around in if I kept it below about 3,000 RPM. Above that at anything over 1/2 throttle would start to build pressure. WOT in first would result in smoke, black streaks, and being a little closer to needing new tires. A buddy of mine with the "Saab kit" on his L61 can reach damn near full spool by 1500 RPM. When I drive it I take it as a challenge to keep it from ever going above 0"hg on the gauge. Its hard to do.
I just have an issue with slapping a turbo on a stock N/A engine not really designed for positive manifold pressure in my own vehicle. Now if GM were to release a GMPP turbo kit for the engine it would think about it on a stock engine. GMPP performance upgrades are usually designed to stay in the limits of stock equipment. My goal will require a little more CHP than I really feel comfortable with on stock rods, without knowing the limits of them. I also have doubts about the stock pistons at those levels as well. If I knew the stock rods would hold to above my goal I would keep them.
Based on my past turbo experience I do kinda like something a little slower to spool up. My Cavalier was easy to putt around in if I kept it below about 3,000 RPM. Above that at anything over 1/2 throttle would start to build pressure. WOT in first would result in smoke, black streaks, and being a little closer to needing new tires. A buddy of mine with the "Saab kit" on his L61 can reach damn near full spool by 1500 RPM. When I drive it I take it as a challenge to keep it from ever going above 0"hg on the gauge. Its hard to do.
SonicBoy24
New member
I love this thread
Won't be turbo-ing my automatic Sonic, but the info. in this thread makes for a great read.
Thanks boys.
Won't be turbo-ing my automatic Sonic, but the info. in this thread makes for a great read.
Thanks boys.
Goneau
New member
A turbo miata is pretty much the whole reason i decided not to do anything to my sonic, well other than having almost 600 a month in child support to pay...
but dude they're sick, running 12 psi on stock internals, stock drivetrain and stock diff getting 250-275WHP reliably is ridiculous
Goneau
New member
I only make ~40k a year but i barely have any bills, so im being generous until we go back to court
oh ****, my first post and weeks and it;s off topic ;]
DevilSonic89
New member
Can i buy the AEM water injection kit??? or would i better be off running NOS???
or would i better be off running NOS???
Last edited:
sx sonic
New member
Can i buy the AEM water injection kit???
Meth won't be that much of a benefit with the pressures you plan on running. An efficient turbo and intercooler will keep intake temps in check until you really start cranking up the boost. Then meth may be beneficial, datalogging will tell and since this is pioneer territory you'll be doing lots of it
.NOS sounds like a very dangerous addition to your current build plans....... Unless you use it for the sole purpose of aiding turbo spool.
DevilSonic89
New member
Nos would be for the turbo spool lol and plus some lol
lol and plus some lolLatest posts
-
-
-
New member here...with a 2013 RS MT which refuses to go into gear.
- Latest: kcoffey@123
-
-