Looks awesome! I'm getting ready to throw my old dual Pioneer 12s in my HB, and was just curious if there were any hindsight issues you ran into? Mine is AIO with a cap, the amp, and the 2 12s on an easily removable box so I'll probably be stealing your power/remote/audio sockets idea lol but I'm just a little unsure on tapping into the speaker wire. By kick panel do you mean the panel underneath the seatbelt mechanism in the center-side of the car? I've always just had red/white outputs on the back of my radios so this is new to me...
Removable sub install, 2014 Sonic RS Hatch
- Thread starter carsNskis
- Start date
carsNskis
New member
No issues, took it to car toys to have them look everything over and they were impressed with the install and sound. They tweaked the amp and input gains just a bit but it slams hard and clean.
No issues with the wire taps so far, used dielectric grease on them to prevent corrosion
Kick panel just left of your left ankle, easy to pull off without tools
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carsNskis
New member
Thanks! Do it! I love the extra bass, I'm all tuned up and it hits hard.. so happy I got it together after owning for a year and a half without
minitrucking02
New member
No issues wiring it to the mylink? That's my biggest concern is messing that up and I don't want to cut my cables.
It doesn't fit. But it it oh so close! I'm guessing like 1/8th-1/4 inch shy of the cover fitting... Not exactly sure what I'm gonna do about it. But I think I can come up with something to make it work. Really want the extra extension a 12 will give...
carsNskis
New member
I used the rear speaker outputs to a line converter (speaker to RCA) and it has adjustable outputs. You set the out voltage to the max input of the amp and that's it. No connectivity issues.
I tapped the wiring in the kick panel, the pic shows the wire taps and I stored the converter in there too
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1186
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carsNskis
New member
I was going to go with a thicker boxed sub at first, and I was going to cut a hole in the new floor board to let the box drop another inch (there's space in the spare well to use, and it's below the line the floor board sits on)
Or build your own enclosure with the same air space and change the dimension so it's shallower.
Or run the sub open air if it's capable
The sub is sealed, with the amp built into the box. So... Maybe a hole in the "trunk" cover for the speaker to protrude.
For line levels, I'm going with an AudioControl LCQ-1
6-channel line output converter with 11-band equalization and bass restoration.
For line levels, I'm going with an AudioControl LCQ-1
6-channel line output converter with 11-band equalization and bass restoration.
carsNskis
New member
The sub is sealed, with the amp built into the box. So... Maybe a hole in the "trunk" cover for the speaker to protrude.
For line levels, I'm going with an AudioControl LCQ-1
6-channel line output converter with 11-band equalization and bass restoration.
Great choice, once I add a 4ch for the front and rear I'll be adding the LCQ as well