Sputtering under WOT - Thread Revisited
- Thread starter Hulty
- Start date
Hulty
Site Supporter
Brought it to the dealer for the second time. Finally got a younger guy that I'll stick with from now on. Trick is, stop in days before appointment while tuned and get the tech to experience it while you give him a ride and then flash to stock before bringing it back in. I also managed to throw P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4)prior to visit as well.
Hulty
Site Supporter
I had already cleared my code before getting it there, and they don't seem to mind so long as you come off as knowledgeable in the area. I just told them I had no choice but to clear it, I couldn't drive around with the car in limp mode.
wickedsonic
New member
Update with fix:
Okay gang let me tell you whats up. I've got a fix thats worked three times now. For my personal car most recently.
I started off with the same issues as the o.p. and a p0299 code that set instantly. I went through the diagnostics for the code but since our smoke machine is dead at work i could only round it down to a vacuum leak but all components such as wastegate, boost solenoid and such were holding a vacuum under a vacuum pump.
I read that some people had vacuum holding issues with the atmospheric valves but mine too held vacuum under vacuum pump so it was ok. I started with returning the car to stock (aka removing valve and tune). The code change from a 299 to p0171 (lean) p015b (lean) and p1101 (lean) so i thought my car might be lean (duh)Lt and st fuel trim at +34% verified this at 900 rpm.
Popped the hood with wifey and listened for vaccuum leaks , hissing and ran our hands on all vacuum lines to feel for air (best thing to do without a smoke machine) Found a huge leak at the pcv canister (this is a round circular device 2 inches north of the oil fill cap under the ecotec cover)
So a/ is this covered under warranty, yes. b/ 3/36 definetely, 5/100 engine yes, and even 5/100 emissions yes. Could it be fixed for free for most of us yea but as i work in the industry id rather do it myself, see my valvetrain wear, and do the job on my own time. The valve cover (which is the only way to get this part) is about $61 retail and comes with the gasket. This problem is for early model 12's and 13's only from what ive seen. Takes 20 min with electric cordless tools or maybe 45 otherwise.
Tools
t30 torx (for ign coil)
small standard screwdriver (for removing wires and crankcase hose out of the way)
e10 socket or for those of you without one 12 point 8mm will do kinda
and a 8mm socket for the air inlet tube
79 inch lbs for putting on the new unit in a star pattern making sure new gasket is fully seated and lubicated with oil like you would a oil filter gasket. If your at home and dont do this for a living a good way to clean up the old suface area of any crust oil is with gas on a shop towel.
Make sure you clear codes when finished or at least remove the battery cable for ten minutes. You do not want to fix the problem and then have 34% long term fuel trim still dumping as you'll think you didnt fix crap .
P.S. I beleive i had the 299 code and the normal fuel trims with the tune (and then once removing the tune getting the huge lean codes because the fuel is is increased in the tune but out of the stock parameters without the tune thus why the code change happened. ) Hopefully this will help others.
To check prior to buying the part you can smoke the car or you can pull your ecotec cover and feel or hear if there is hissing by this port under idle. When you cover the hissing part with your finger you will notice the idle smooth out and the car quit misfiring if you have this problem.
Okay gang let me tell you whats up. I've got a fix thats worked three times now. For my personal car most recently.
I started off with the same issues as the o.p. and a p0299 code that set instantly. I went through the diagnostics for the code but since our smoke machine is dead at work i could only round it down to a vacuum leak but all components such as wastegate, boost solenoid and such were holding a vacuum under a vacuum pump.
I read that some people had vacuum holding issues with the atmospheric valves but mine too held vacuum under vacuum pump so it was ok. I started with returning the car to stock (aka removing valve and tune). The code change from a 299 to p0171 (lean) p015b (lean) and p1101 (lean) so i thought my car might be lean (duh)Lt and st fuel trim at +34% verified this at 900 rpm.
Popped the hood with wifey and listened for vaccuum leaks , hissing and ran our hands on all vacuum lines to feel for air (best thing to do without a smoke machine) Found a huge leak at the pcv canister (this is a round circular device 2 inches north of the oil fill cap under the ecotec cover)
So a/ is this covered under warranty, yes. b/ 3/36 definetely, 5/100 engine yes, and even 5/100 emissions yes. Could it be fixed for free for most of us yea but as i work in the industry id rather do it myself, see my valvetrain wear, and do the job on my own time. The valve cover (which is the only way to get this part) is about $61 retail and comes with the gasket. This problem is for early model 12's and 13's only from what ive seen. Takes 20 min with electric cordless tools or maybe 45 otherwise.
Tools
t30 torx (for ign coil)
small standard screwdriver (for removing wires and crankcase hose out of the way)
e10 socket or for those of you without one 12 point 8mm will do kinda
and a 8mm socket for the air inlet tube
79 inch lbs for putting on the new unit in a star pattern making sure new gasket is fully seated and lubicated with oil like you would a oil filter gasket. If your at home and dont do this for a living a good way to clean up the old suface area of any crust oil is with gas on a shop towel.
Make sure you clear codes when finished or at least remove the battery cable for ten minutes. You do not want to fix the problem and then have 34% long term fuel trim still dumping as you'll think you didnt fix crap .
P.S. I beleive i had the 299 code and the normal fuel trims with the tune (and then once removing the tune getting the huge lean codes because the fuel is is increased in the tune but out of the stock parameters without the tune thus why the code change happened. ) Hopefully this will help others.
To check prior to buying the part you can smoke the car or you can pull your ecotec cover and feel or hear if there is hissing by this port under idle. When you cover the hissing part with your finger you will notice the idle smooth out and the car quit misfiring if you have this problem.
mja
Site Supporter
My car is having similar issues, thanks for that likely vac. leak area wicked.
This is happening to me, and it's either spark - plugs/coil, or I'm surprised no one's really mentioned boost leak. Most people it seems on this thread lose the stutter when going back to the stock tune. If no lean codes for vac, then I'd say there could be boost escaping under the higher pressures of the tune.
I doubt this would be caused by injectors or ecu, but I guess anything's possible.
This is happening to me, and it's either spark - plugs/coil, or I'm surprised no one's really mentioned boost leak. Most people it seems on this thread lose the stutter when going back to the stock tune. If no lean codes for vac, then I'd say there could be boost escaping under the higher pressures of the tune.
I doubt this would be caused by injectors or ecu, but I guess anything's possible.
sonic_braaappp
New member
I havent read all the comments on here so this may have been answered already idk, but here's my experience with stuttering under WOT.
Shortly after I got my bnr efi live tune the car pulled great but stuttered/hesitated under WOT, I pulled abs fuse out, and my suspicions were true. Traction/stability control were dumbing down the power once I got close to 17-18 psi, pulled the fuse and now it goes all the way to 21 psi with no hesitation at all
Shortly after I got my bnr efi live tune the car pulled great but stuttered/hesitated under WOT, I pulled abs fuse out, and my suspicions were true. Traction/stability control were dumbing down the power once I got close to 17-18 psi, pulled the fuse and now it goes all the way to 21 psi with no hesitation at all
EVOX_SPEED3
Member
Please elaborate about the fuse removal
....my car is not sputtering anymore at WOT, (adjusted spark plug gap - they were at .45 and up)!!! Put them at .28 and now car is happier, but power is lacking. (EFI LIVE) on my previous Trifecta tune, it had waaay more power, but getting CELs all over the place.
sonic_braaappp
New member
hard to describe which fuse it is, and i don't have a picture of it, but if you're on the Gamma II facebook page there was a post earlier today where we were discussing it. Kinda surprised to hear your trifecta tune made mnore power as well, not knocking trifecta, but i don't know anyone on trifecta making close to the amount of torque as I am. and as for the CEL's, which codes is it throwing? have you datalogged and sent back to BNR and gotten a revision at all? Mine throws p0171 and p015b nonstop basically because of the O2 sensor angled bung on the catless downpipe i haven't taken off yet
EVOX_SPEED3
Member
I am using the base tune, sent my data logs (properly gapped) to Jerry and just waiting to hear back. I'll be honest, I'm just glad to drive without a CELL on a tune for the first time in a year lol.
Also, I'm not saying the Trifecta tune was better than the EFILIVE, cuz I'm just going by butt dyno.
Ok, one more question, I can't switch tunes on the fly (Cruise on = Stock, Cruise of =Tune) with Trifecta, on the Efilive tune right?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
sonic_braaappp
New member
that is correct, but i've been on the efi live base tune for a few months, and have actually been getting better fuel economy when using cruise control than the stock tune
Kuntryboy865
New member
I had these issues, now that I put a forge BOV on it, instead of spuddering like before, the BOV goes off under full WOT. IDK, but I suspect it has something to do with the bypass mod I had someone do to my car because when I was in Florida last year one ( or maybe a couple) of pieces came loose from when they did the bypass mod since then its been spuddering(until I installed the forge BOV). I'm going to check and see if all the right places have vac caps.
Kuntryboy865
New member
Which fuse is it. Ive been having problems for a long time, I will try anything to fix it.
Dogz
New member
My car started doing this the other day. Felt like it was sputtering under wot when it got over 3500 rpm's. Drove it carefully on the way home & watched everything on my ultraguage to see what was going on. The engine developed a miss when it got over a certain amount of boost. It was only doing it on boost so I just figured it was plug gaps that needed adjusting. When I got home I removed the coil pack so I could check the plugs & discovered that one of the plug outputs on the coil pack was completely corroded. Problem found, dodgy coil pack. I pulled all the plugs & checked them but they were all good. The one spark plug had started to corrode at the top also. I took photo's & the next morning emailed them to the local Holden dealership asking for a warranty replacement coil pack, they called me later that day to let me know they had ordered me a replacement coil pack.
Attachments
-
image.jpg
wasteoffilm
Member
Sounds like the line from the intake to the BOV came off.
Mine is stock BPV, but when you build over 10-11lbs of boost with the line off, it will cycle on and off the entire time you have your foot in it, and then flutters like crazy when you let off.