throttle body

[severous01]

are there any quick swaps for throttle bodies on this thing yet? can we take the 2.0l and directly plug it in and go to town?

like the lsx engines for camaros and stuff, you can apply the newer throttles on older engines. what i'm asking is if there's any for this engine?

 

[Eric Smit]

why?

 

[ungawd]

I'm not sure it would be necessary on a forced induction engine unless boost levels are extremely high. Even then the gain, if any, would be quite small. On an NA it's beneficial because it lessens flow impediments, or rather, allows for greater flow potential.

 

[pat]

It does in fact make a difference. Too small of a throttle plate can cause a restriction. But not at the power levels any of you are at. Should anyone with a 1.4 need intercooler piping larger that 2" (around 400hp), then start looking at throttle options.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[RoXXXanne13]

good ol pat is back in town!!

 

[severous01]

i asked if anything was available, not your opinions if i need it or not.

second, if cutting little tabs off the intake manifold makes a huge difference in top end, then a larger throttle, even if it's 5% bigger, will make a difference.

third, i'm looking for cheap power. larger throttle is the first step, even in forced induction. at WOT, every little restriction is just that: a restriction. so while you're wondering what difference it'll make, remove your aftermarket exhaust and put stock back on, tell me what difference you feel. try breating through a straw and tell me how you feel doing some exercises.

if no OEM is available, does anyone know of someone who bores stock units and rebuilds them?

 

[sx sonic]

Not sure who can bore them out. I imagine it will be very labor intensive thou. The Sonics throttle bore has some intricate machining around the throttle plate that will have to be very carefully replicated only for a larger bore. Basically the DBW's method of controlling idle thru the throttle instead of with a IAC results in a much more complex bore than you would find years ago.

I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it'll be harder to find a place with the tooling to do it properly. I asked a local speed shop about it but they said they couldn't do it.


How bout some good news!? The screws that secure the throttle are quite long and grinding them down with a dremel is a rather easy task and shoul marginally improve flow. Likewise the shaft that holds the throttle plate is very thick and could be ground down a good bit. I did not do the latter but it looks like an easy task.

The gains will be small but if you're like me it'll give you something to do while you look for someone to port the throttle body.

 

[pat]

i asked if anything was available, not your opinions if i need it or not.

second, if cutting little tabs off the intake manifold makes a huge difference in top end, then a larger throttle, even if it's 5% bigger, will make a difference.

third, i'm looking for cheap power. larger throttle is the first step, even in forced induction. at WOT, every little restriction is just that: a restriction. so while you're wondering what difference it'll make, remove your aftermarket exhaust and put stock back on, tell me what difference you feel. try breating through a straw and tell me how you feel doing some exercises.

if no OEM is available, does anyone know of someone who bores stock units and rebuilds them?

A larger throttle is not going to net you power until you get a bigger turbo - and it won't be cheap. The only thing you're going to get is decreased part throttle drive ability.

This is a factory boosted car. Not an NA motor. If the available throttle area at wot is equal to your intercooler piping, then you're NOT reducing restriction on the intake tract.

 

[severous01]

pipe dia = throttle dia.

throttle has plate + the bar in the middle.

area of pipe, DOES NOT equal area of throttle

any way, it's not available so what's the point of the arguement

 

[ripper806]

Port your manifold, a throttle body would be useless without porting your manifold.

 

[severous01]

waiting on a custom aliminum model hopefully.

 

[pat]

So much for cheap

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[JaSonic]

ported throttle body would help increase throttle response.

 

[NR552]

Coming from the Mopar world... I know first hand that ported and billet custom throttle bodies make a difference on NA and forced induction vehicles.

I may see about having a billet TB prototype built now that I have a Sonic RS. Price point for something like this runs ~$350-500 depending on quantity + if any sensors are needed to make it happen (some TB's have integrated sensors).

If there's enough interest I'll move forward trying to get some prototyping done.

 

[simple2me]

I know the 80mm throttle body from my 3.6l plugs right in and works. I replaced my engine in the cadillac last year and had a spare throttle body. Just need an intake to bolt it to since the mounting bolt spread is wider. I thought about hitting up one of my vendors for some 3 or 4" aluminum pipe and some aluminum1.5-2" 90's and 1/2" plate. Id like to build an intake and mount that throttle body. No point until I get the tune and id rather wait until my powertrain warranty is out. That'll be next year sometime.

 

[sx sonic]

Well today I did alittle more reworking on my throttle body. I'd previously ground down the throttle plate screws but I decided to make a DIY for a member on here.

Figured I might as well do alil more grinding while I had it out for pics. Mind you I stayed pretty conservative because the throttle bore is intricately machined to allow for Idle air control at lower throttle openings.

You do not want to go too aggresive and grind down a contour that is specifically designed to control idle and have a finky engine. (I played with the throttle plate, opening and closing it while noting which contours would have a strong impact on how the engine would idle.)

If you decide to try this do so at your own risk. also take your time and familirize yourself with all the features so you don't absent mindedly grind down what your not supposed to.

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The actual removal and installation of the throttle body is very straight forward and will take about 10-15 mins to remove.

The porting will take much longer. With a small selection of metal cutting bits (I used carbide cutters made for steel to great effect) it will take 1-2 hours to do the smooth and blend the bore itself.

Then grinding down the throttle plate screws and throttle shaft if you wish to will consume another hour or 2. It's a tight area and smaller bits are required and its grinding steel instead of aluminum so it's much slower going and requires more diligence to not contact the bore on accident

(my dremel and air compressor both died so I didn't get to rework the throttle shaft or grind down the throttle plate screws as much as desired.. or polish what I had done. :sadbanana

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Step 1- Remove the boost tube. loosen the clamp at the throttle body and wiggle/pull the tube of and folt it out of the way. (the clamp varies, mine was a 7mm socket, some use a screwdriver)

2- Disconnect the throttle body wire connection

3- Remove the wire loom bracket. Use a 10mm socket to undo the one bolt and then leave the braket hang, you'll move it as neccesary later.

4- Remove the 4 allen bolts for the TB. they're 5mm allens. I used a normal allen wrench with a ball end for working at an angle. I also used slip joint pliers for extra leverage when break the bolts loose and for final tightening.

5- Pull the TB out.

Next is the porting. A small assortment of carbide cutters is ideal for much of the work. Some smaller grinding stones or cutters is very hanfy for working the throttle shaft and the plate screws. Sand paper rolls may come in handy as well as some felt bobs for polishing. (I made do with fine sand paper and scotch brite pads after my dremel failed).

Note the 1st few pics are after already grinding down the throttle plate screws and some polishing. The screws normally stick out a good amount.

Heres the inlet ~2" I.D.
note the lip/ridge at the bottom side of the bore. This is the contour I mentioned earliar. For fear of messing up idle quality I recommend being modest with It and just blending it in some or leaving it alone altogether (It might be ok to grind smooth but IDK and I'd hate for anyone to have to buy a new TB)

Here's the outlet/ manifold side. ~1 3/4" I.D.
Theres some strange contours at the top and bottom of the bore. They didnt appear to have any real purpose so I ground one side flush and smoothly blended the other.

Here's with the throttle locked open with a 10mm socket.
agian note the contour at the top of pic halfway into the bore.
Locking the throttle open is neccesary for working the throttle plate screws and may come in handy for reworking the bore. The screws would normally be noticable with the throttle in this position, but as mentioned I'd already ground them flush.

Different angle

I absent mindly bolted everything up before realizing I hadnt taken after pics . So this is the only finished pic I have.

I'll try to get more and better pics to replace the existing ones in a day or three.

opcorn:

-Tyler

 

[Preloader]

I wonder which member you are referring to.

Dude awesome write-up. Can I ask that you copy it and start a new thread in this same sub category? (1.4T)

I'll be doing this.

 

[sx sonic]

I wonder which member you are referring to.

Dude awesome write-up. Can I ask that you copy it and start a new thread in this same sub category? (1.4T)

I'll be doing this.

I'll do that right now. I'm always hesitant about starting new threads.