timing belt failures

[JTee2017]

Amazing small cars the Sonics. . . And when taken care of, just some of what I call wear items that need replacement. Most.. . . DIY if just a bit handy.
Not really pricey to keep running if a person keeps on tops of things and takes note of what may wear out, change trans fluid, oil changes etc.
And we chose the 1.8L as well.. Our 2017 has good pick up even with the automatic I think, roomy, and pretty quiet ride.

Our daughter has a 2014 hatch LT also she bought new in July 2014. I think about 125K now. Did the timing belt at about 91K, I replaced the surge valve at about 78K and repaired a manifold fitting leak that went to the power brake accumulator.
She had the T-stat housing replaced under warranty at about 75K as well.
Other than that, tires and brakes. Not sure, but she may have had the end links dune also.
So far, the intake manifold connector link hasn't worn out yet.

 

[Z71]

I have one question: At 100k miles a reminder comes on the dash to change the timing belt. Someone mentioned before that you must go to a dealer to turn this message off. Is there another way, like disconnecting the battery for a while or using some kind of more advanced OBD II code reader?

 

[JTee2017]

There are two fuses you must remove for several minutes to rest that message.

IPC labeled fuses. (Instrument Panel Cluster) Fuses.

Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual: Indicator/Warning Message Description and Operation - Storage - Accessories

 

[Z71]

There are two fuses you must remove for several minutes to rest that message.

IPC labeled fuses. (Instrument Panel Cluster) Fuses.

Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual: Indicator/Warning Message Description and Operation - Storage - Accessories

Thanks for the information.

I have one more question concerning proper orientation of the washer under the harmonic balancer pulley bolt. When I removed it while changing the timing belt, I did not realize that not both sides of the washer are flat, one side is, the other one has a raised ledge in the middle and I think this is where the head of the bolt goes because I saw scuff marks on it from the bolt flange, whereas the other side (flat side) was clean. And turning the washer the other way did not seem to fit as it would act like a shoulder bolt and not hold the harmonic balancer tight against the crankshaft. BTW this washer retails for $ 20+ from a GM dealer and it is obviously a dealer only item. Strange, because the bolt itself is only about $ 3.

 

[Z71]

I found this timing belt replacement procedure on Chevy Cruze forum. they use an identical engine in base Cruze model before I think 2016 model year when all Cruzes got a 1.4 turbo as the standard engine.

Note the timing marks.


https://www.cruzetalk.com/threads/how-to-timing-belt-1-8l-and-1-6l.100769/

 

[Bl4d3]

Bringing up an old thread.

Do a full cam belt service every 90000km or 55000 miles.
I previously owned a 2011 Chevrolet Aveo 1.6, services all up to date.
The idler pully failed at 119500km (500km in warranty). It caused the belt to skip and the pistons to slam into the valves. Completely destroyed the engine.

Was replaced under warranty by GM South Africa and took about 3 months to get an engine in and fitted. Absolute nightmare.

Because of this, I do not recommend trying to squeeze extra life out of a rubber inexpensive belt and pully, the risk is just too great.

Every car and bike I've ever had I replaced the cambelts on just in case. Even on my Ducati Monster 796 before I was hit off by a speeding teenager, I replaced both belts because I didn't get the bike with a service history.

 

[Dingleberry69]

I would not buy the lifetime chain statement fom the dealer, they just do not expect you to keep the car long enough to know if failed. Chains stretch and wear also just like any other part on a car.

I find it funny too that the dealer would call it a lifetime chain. Doesn’t instill too much confidence in the product at all does it? Lol

 

[Dingleberry69]

I can’t see the belt wearing out as quick just changed mine at 157900kms and the belt looked like it was pretty fresh, not much difference in belt length compared to the new belt I put in. The gotcha is in the bearings in the tensioner/idler pulleys. They will fail a lot sooner than the belt, and will cause hurt when they fail or seize up. Something that can’t be seen or felt with just the cam cover off. Have to remove them to feel the condition of the springs and bearings, so may as well replace em and the belt as well. Would definitely replace the water pump as well cause mine was showing a lot of end play and was pretty notchey on rotation.

 

[Z71]

I find it funny too that the dealer would call it a lifetime chain. Doesn’t instill too much confidence in the product at all does it? Lol

If anyone has a classic American made car this may be of interest to you. In the 1960's and early 1970's it was usual for the car manufacturers to install nylon or plastic timing chain cam gears in their V8 engines. I found original plastic cam gear in my 1967 ford T bird 390 V8 engine and it was already cracked badly when I replaced the timing chain at 69k miles. The replacement timing chain came with all steel gears. My 1970 Chrysler Newport with 383 cu in V8 also had an original plastic cam gear. Go figure.