94383Z71's Sonic Build

[94383Z71]

On another note, I installed my Ultragauge last night. I really like the thing! It can be kinda hard to choose what gauges to put on what screens though. I've also noticed that my IAT stays 15-20*+ above ambient. I'm gonna finally pull that snorkel and grommet, see if that helps any.

Damn, that snorkel made a hell of a difference. My IATs were always 15-20*F high, sometimes 30-40*F high (my UG alarms for IAT would go off at 116* when it's 80-90*F outside).

Now it almost never goes above 15*F higher than ambient at stop, usually within 7-8*F moving. Should get better if I delete my fogs and get even more airflow, but I'm happy.

Intercooler/Anaconda/Shifter are currently out for delivery. With any luck the DP and shifter will be in today, and I'll blast my charge tubes and take them to P/C tomorrow.

Hope to have IC on and datalogs run by or during the weekend.

 

[rsSteve]

This is interesting because my IAT's dropped after removal of the snorkel as well. Even though it was sucking air through the fender (which should be colder), removing it decreased my IAT's by quite a few. I thought It was just me since it seems to go against the logic of the design. Maybe its something to do with the restriction and it needs to outflow it.

 

[94383Z71]

I think you're right- the restriction doesn't work well when taken out of the sealed airbox design.

When using the SAB, while you're losing overall CFM, you're drawing 100% ambient because your only inlet is directly thru the snorkel. Aftermarket doesn't seal to the snorkel, so it serves only as a restriction to ambient air. Then, even with a shield, you draw more underhood air simply by availability.

I forgot to mention earlier that I had a bit of an accident on vacation yesterday. Bumped into a guy that came out of nowhere in a McD's parking lot. Need a new taillight, bumper is pretty marred. I'll be getting a new tail, but doubtful I'll replace the bumper yet until I'm out of school-too many idiots in community parking.

 

[Hulty]

I've always been impressed by my DDM CAI and shield. When moving my IAT is never more than ten degrees over, and generally more like 5-7 degrees, and that's with snorkel in place.

 

[94383Z71]

Hulty, that's impressive. About the same as my numbers, but no way in hell that would have happened with my snorkel in place. I highly recommend removing it, as it serves as nothing more than a restriction with a CAI and take 3 screws and 5 min to take out-just park with the wheel cranked all the way left. 3 screws on the front edge of the fender well. Reach in and pull, it'll give with some force. Reinsert screws and you're done.

Parts came in last night :banana: unfortunately I was out of work late yesterday and in early today, so all I managed to do was install the short shifter, fix my HID wiring and put the stickers on my toolbox

That shifter....I recommend it to anybody who enjoys driving a stick. Makes the throw feel miles shorter. I'm sure it'll make froggy driving much more fun and quicker as well. Install instructions were dead on-drilling a 1/4" hole and inserting a ladyfoot prybar made short work of the infamous cap.

Finally tore out the redundant harness and ran one for both. The install is MUCH cleaner, and I suspect that it might help with the passenger relay no behaving correctly-we'll see. Quite happy with the looks now though, so a plus either way.

Hope to install the anaconda and blast the charge pipes later today. Gonna makes some templates for my nylon motor mount spacer as well.

 

[Stew]

Looking good, I've been kicking around whether or not to put the short shifter on my list.

 

[94383Z71]

As someone whop genuinely enjoy driving, I feel like it is a similar bang-for-buck to a quality tune. Not as much performance gain, but really changes the driver experience, at a great price point.

Didn't make it into the garage yesterday, rain kept me from driving on the lawn and a 36ft gooseneck is blocking my driveway :blankface:

Hopefully will be able to do at least some sandblasting today.

 

[Hulty]

As someone whop genuinely enjoy driving, I feel like it is a similar bang-for-buck to a quality tune. Not as much performance gain, but really changes the driver experience, at a great price point.

Didn't make it into the garage yesterday, rain kept me from driving on the lawn and a 36ft gooseneck is blocking my driveway :blankface:

Hopefully will be able to do at least some sandblasting today.

That's how I feel too, if you pair the short shifter with the shift bushings it really feels like the old arcade game Pole Position - AWESOME!!

 

[94383Z71]

Hulty: Pole Position was a touch before my time, but it sure does feel great!

So I installed the Anaconda last night....it went okay I guess. The seller forgot to mention there's a spacer/reducer that connects the AC to the stock catback (which I probably should have know about in my searches)...:blankface:

Not to be defeated...now I'm just running the anaconda I'm going to a muffler shop later today to have a catback with a magna muffler and resonator put on.

Other than that hiccup the install went great-except for the damn v-band clap is a real pain. Solution? Have my 5'5" 120lb blonde girl-next-door come hold the downpipe up while I clamped it

In other news, I ordered Moog Cobalt SS endlinks to solve the hellacious rattle that I've developed in my front end. Also found out that my P/C guy is out of town until next wednesday, so the IC will have to wait.

 

[94383Z71]

I may be putting an amped speaker setup in within the next two weeks, while I'll have a spare car to drive.

I will be buying this kit for sound deadening the doors/decklid/firewall and maybe the floor, depending on my gumption and amount left.
Amazon.com: Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9): Automotive

As for sound, I planned on these front speakers (Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System with crossover and separate tweets, 2 Ohm impedance):
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics

With these adapters:
Amazon.com : Scosche SAGMHR634B 2006-Up Chevrolet HHR/Impala Speaker Adapter for 6+-Inch or 6+-Inch : Vehicle Audio Video Accessories And Parts : Car Electronics
I read a thread where the guy said he used the stock mounting cones in lieu of these, providing better sound quality and a cleaner install, although more work. I will try that route first.

Rear Speakers(Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers, 2 Ohm impedance):
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics


Amp for the 4-speaker setup (Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4, 4 Ohm):
Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 Punch BRT 300-Watt Ultra Compact 4-Channel Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics

One of my question is amping. The 300x4 used with these in the thread I got most of the idea from says 4 ohm only, while the speakers are 2 ohm.

Other than that, I'm just going to take my time running 18 or 16AWG thru the car. I will try to go the route of pinning the speaker wire into the door harness, which would be super clean and BA, also allowing more serviceability if I ever need it.

A shallow mount 12" glassed in the driver's side trunk recess, amp in the right- was given a $500 quote from a local shop for this. Probably do it this Christmas or next summer.

I really appreciate any input here. I'm good with cars, but stereo options have always been a weak point for me. Some educated/experienced comments are incredibly valued- I have a thread in the ICE area on this as well.

 

[Scot]

Hey - before you pull the motor mount, try swapping the trans mount. I have the trans mount only and get the same horrible vibes you do.

 

[Hulty]

I may be putting an amped speaker setup in within the next two weeks, while I'll have a spare car to drive.

I will be buying this kit for sound deadening the doors/decklid/firewall and maybe the floor, depending on my gumption and amount left.
Amazon.com: Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9): Automotive

As for sound, I planned on these front speakers (Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System with crossover and separate tweets, 2 Ohm impedance):
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics

With these adapters:
Amazon.com : Scosche SAGMHR634B 2006-Up Chevrolet HHR/Impala Speaker Adapter for 6+-Inch or 6+-Inch : Vehicle Audio Video Accessories And Parts : Car Electronics
I read a thread where the guy said he used the stock mounting cones in lieu of these, providing better sound quality and a cleaner install, although more work. I will try that route first.

Rear Speakers(Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers, 2 Ohm impedance):
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics


Amp for the 4-speaker setup (Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4, 4 Ohm):
Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 Punch BRT 300-Watt Ultra Compact 4-Channel Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics

One of my question is amping. The 300x4 used with these in the thread I got most of the idea from says 4 ohm only, while the speakers are 2 ohm.

Other than that, I'm just going to take my time running 18 or 16AWG thru the car. I will try to go the route of pinning the speaker wire into the door harness, which would be super clean and BA, also allowing more serviceability if I ever need it.

A shallow mount 12" glassed in the driver's side trunk recess, amp in the right- was given a $500 quote from a local shop for this. Probably do it this Christmas or next summer.

I really appreciate any input here. I'm good with cars, but stereo options have always been a weak point for me. Some educated/experienced comments are incredibly valued- I have a thread in the ICE area on this as well.

Just an idea for you if you're looking to save a bit of cash on the audio install. You may want to start by doing just the bass by putting a sub in the trunk powered by a mono amp which is significantly less than starting with channels from the start. I think you'll be remarkably pleased by how the stock tweets/mids work with a proper sub. Then, no harm done, and you can always take a step up after that by running a lower power 4CH for your mids/tweets in the future if you'd like. No waste, a perfect compliment to each other, and you'll save quite a bit of cash having your more powerful amp be mono. Plus, you have the added bonus of being able to mount and hide the two smaller amps behind the interior paneling rather than mounting a larger more cumbersome amp. My amp is behind one of the upright panels in the trunk, I love that it's not visible.

Not sayin', just sayin'....

 

[94383Z71]

Good idea Scot- it seems like most people blame the motor mount for the vibes, but I should be more thorough before condemning something.

I really hope a nylon spacer helps- I've seen Preloader's heat shield spacers, but I'm skeptical how much that would help with vibration transmission between the car and mount. That's where I came up with the idea of using some heavy duty nylon to go under the mount, but I'm not sure how thick that can be without throwing off alignment and causing more problems- haven't had time to investigate further.

 

[94383Z71]

Just an idea for you if you're looking to save a bit of cash on the audio install. You may want to start by doing just the bass by putting a sub in the trunk powered by a mono amp which is significantly less than starting with channels from the start. I think you'll be remarkably pleased by how the stock tweets/mids work with a proper sub. Then, no harm done, and you can always take a step up after that by running a lower power 4CH for your mids/tweets in the future if you'd like. No waste, a perfect compliment to each other, and you'll save quite a bit of cash having your more powerful amp be mono. Plus, you have the added bonus of being able to mount and hide the two smaller amps behind the interior paneling rather than mounting a larger more cumbersome amp. My amp is behind one of the upright panels in the trunk, I love that it's not visible.

Not sayin', just sayin'....

I have thought a good deal about your plan here, which is a good one.

My thoughts are somewhat reverse though- I have found on many occasions that the factory system is noticeably quieter than I'd like it to be, and the sound could definitely be improved. I may actually find that I don't want the added bass as much as I like $500...but probably not ;p

either way they will be pretty much totally independent installs, with the 300x4 doing the doors and a higher amp mono in the trunk- behind the wall is a great idea though, thank you!

 

[Scot]

Good idea Scot- it seems like most people blame the motor mount for the vibes, but I should be more thorough before condemning something.

I really hope a nylon spacer helps- I've seen Preloader's heat shield spacers, but I'm skeptical how much that would help with vibration transmission between the car and mount. That's where I came up with the idea of using some heavy duty nylon to go under the mount, but I'm not sure how thick that can be without throwing off alignment and causing more problems- haven't had time to investigate further.

Honestly - what is needed for the trans mount is a travel-limiter parallel to the stock mount. Stock squishy mount absorbs vibrations and travel-limiter / roll control would negate the unwanted powertrain movement.

Been meaning to build one. No time.

 

[94383Z71]

Hmm. That's a good idea. If I can find some examples of that I may just try to tinker with it myself.

At this point I'm mildy bound and determined to bring the TTR mounts under control, seeing as I paid $330 for them

 

[SoundWave]

Honestly - what is needed for the trans mount is a travel-limiter parallel to the stock mount. Stock squishy mount absorbs vibrations and travel-limiter / roll control would negate the unwanted powertrain movement.

Been meaning to build one. No time.

Something like this?
93040 - Stiffy ETD, 2005-08 Chevrolet Cobalt SS - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

I've seen DIY ones done with Mountain Bike shocks, need to look at how the engine moves under load to try and understand it.

I've run this with Poly mounts before on another FWD car, and there was NO wheel hop anymore, but the vibrations were intense with the A/C on.

 

[SoundWave]

I may be putting an amped speaker setup in within the next two weeks, while I'll have a spare car to drive.

I will be buying this kit for sound deadening the doors/decklid/firewall and maybe the floor, depending on my gumption and amount left.
Amazon.com: Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9): Automotive

As for sound, I planned on these front speakers (Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System with crossover and separate tweets, 2 Ohm impedance):
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics

With these adapters:
Amazon.com : Scosche SAGMHR634B 2006-Up Chevrolet HHR/Impala Speaker Adapter for 6+-Inch or 6+-Inch : Vehicle Audio Video Accessories And Parts : Car Electronics
I read a thread where the guy said he used the stock mounting cones in lieu of these, providing better sound quality and a cleaner install, although more work. I will try that route first.

Rear Speakers(Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers, 2 Ohm impedance):
Amazon.com : Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics


Amp for the 4-speaker setup (Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4, 4 Ohm):
Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 Punch BRT 300-Watt Ultra Compact 4-Channel Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics

One of my question is amping. The 300x4 used with these in the thread I got most of the idea from says 4 ohm only, while the speakers are 2 ohm.

Other than that, I'm just going to take my time running 18 or 16AWG thru the car. I will try to go the route of pinning the speaker wire into the door harness, which would be super clean and BA, also allowing more serviceability if I ever need it.

A shallow mount 12" glassed in the driver's side trunk recess, amp in the right- was given a $500 quote from a local shop for this. Probably do it this Christmas or next summer.

I really appreciate any input here. I'm good with cars, but stereo options have always been a weak point for me. Some educated/experienced comments are incredibly valued- I have a thread in the ICE area on this as well.

I'm going with two sets of Infinity Kappa 60.11cs. While Crutchfiled lists them as "Does not fit" in the front, I'm going to make it work, as it's what I really waned.

I also plan to gut the car and Dynamat it as part of the install, expect it to take me and a friend an entire weekend to get done. I'll have the speakers in-hand Sunday; and will start figuring out the install needs/mounting next week.

In regards to your selected amp, hhe OHMs are important here, as the impedance mismatch could force the amplifier to run at a wattage it's not designed for, which will usually trip it's fail safe mode to keep from blowing it up. This one will run safely at that impedance, and is about the same price:
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYAW/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406920051&sr=1-6

Hope that's helpful.

 

[Luv2xlr8]

Something like this?
93040 - Stiffy ETD, 2005-08 Chevrolet Cobalt SS - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

I've seen DIY ones done with Mountain Bike shocks, need to look at how the engine moves under load to try and understand it.

I've run this with Poly mounts before on another FWD car, and there was NO wheel hop anymore, but the vibrations were intense with the A/C on.

I have a Ingalls engine torque damper in my other car, it actually helps the wheel hop issue I was having and the thing I noticed the most was the shifting was so much smoother and helped my 60ft time at the track. They are also adjustable so you can make it stiff or softer but the cabin got a bit of vibrations.

 

[94383Z71]

I'm going with two sets of Infinity Kappa 60.11cs. While Crutchfiled lists them as "Does not fit" in the front, I'm going to make it work, as it's what I really waned.

I also plan to gut the car and Dynamat it as part of the install, expect it to take me and a friend an entire weekend to get done. I'll have the speakers in-hand Sunday; and will start figuring out the install needs/mounting next week.

In regards to your selected amp, hhe OHMs are important here, as the impedance mismatch could force the amplifier to run at a wattage it's not designed for, which will usually trip it's fail safe mode to keep from blowing it up. This one will run safely at that impedance, and is about the same price:
Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate R250X4 Prime 4-Channel Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics

Hope that's helpful.

Yeah I wouldn't recommend rushing the dynamat install. That's why I'm waiting until I have like 6 days where my car can be in pieces and I don't have to worry.

The amp makes me really curious, because someone did it on here and got great feedback, never complained about the amp tripping the safety. The amp you linked would definitely work but then I can't fit it under the shift console, which I really wanted.

Edit: previously mentioned thread
http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...adunit-but-replacing-speakers-adding-amp.html

Might as well continue the edit to say that my MOOG endlinks are here, might put them on today. Also ordered the MPFab spacer for the anaconda based on Walker's recommendation to try it with the stock catback first. That will be installed Tuesday.