Mine are torqued as tight as my arms can get them...
35 ft lbs of torque is not even close to being enough. You may need to get a 8' cheater pipe and stand on it. 8' out with 110lbs of person on it should do the trick....![]()
sorry, 115lbs... lol
Agreed, I'm an old chev dog myself and have put many wheels on with an impact but do it right use a torque wrench and use the proper specs.I usually use an impact, but thats just me.
I also read this on the cruise forum, couldn't believe it but buddy sounded legit. if this is an actual problem NOT COOL !! just putting my new steel winters on now, only 20k on the car so in the spring i will be experiencing torquing the factory rims....Have many of you actually tried to torque to 100ft lb with the stock, standard wheels? I had a hard time feeling "comfortable" with the way it was feeling while I was trying to get there. It felt "soft" like I could break a stud. I when over to our cousin (Chevy Cruze) forum and someone HAD broken studs tightening to 100.
Thoughts?
most torque spec charts have a column for dry and a column for lubed, you do not need to lube wheel studs though (and i do believe if its lubed you apply less torque)Don't tell ARP that. They recommend lubricant for most of the fasteners they sell.
Personally, I'm a big fan of using anti-seize on my studs.
mechanics that use impacts are lazy and doing a "good enough" job.Depends, There are some impacts that are strong than a person with a breaker bar. I know alot of tire shops just impact most nuts down. Hell most dealerships just impact nuts down.
Ive also seen impacts that you can set a torque spec on and it ratchets once it hits that spec. I prefer to use a torque wrench since Im anal retentive.