Second gear grinding & remedy

M

minitrucking02

New member
Mine did it today at like 4k rpm i was so confused. Granted i romoed first with traction on and went into 2nd quicjer than usual, but thr gring doesnt usually occur until 4500 or 5k and you gotta be on it hard.

Anyone with the trans mount mod, does it help? Shifter bushings, shirt throw, any remidies? I have an extended warranty so im leary to throw the redline in
 
C

cuartz7o

New member
I'm at 43k miles on my RS manual and just replaced the factory fluid with 2.5qts of Amsoil Synchromesh and my 1-2 grind is gone. The actual rowing of the gears feels about the same but after warming up 5+6 gear are very easy to get into, flies in like butter.

Overall definitely worth changing it out if you can DIY it as its only $40 for the oil and maybe $20 In tools if you don't have any.

On my 2013 I used a 10mm long L-shaped hex Allen key to undo the drain bolt and a 8mm hex socket to undo the fill port. Took maybe 20 minutes. I didn't get to measure how much was drained but I believe it was under 2qts. Filled her up with 2.5qt.



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mja

mja

Site Supporter
The difference between 2012 and mid-2013 MY's shifters were noted earlier, here's the instructions for newer 6MT's. See post #396 of this thread for a picture of the newer shift tower.

1. Remove the floor console. Refer to Front Floor Console Replacement.

17%2B-%2B1

2. Lift upward and disengage (do not remove) both cable lock adjusters (1) to release the internal cable assembly, one for each side.

17%2B-%2B1

3. Block the shift control housing, push the selector lever (2) backwards and push (arrow) the blocking device (1) towards the shift control housing.

17%2B-%2B1

Note:
The hole of the transmission gear control (2) must be aligned to the hole in the base so the pin (1) can pass thru both. The transmission gear control will be locked in the 1? neutral position.

4. lock the position of the shift control lever by rotating the reverse lockout device with the following instructions:
Push down on tab (1) and pull up on device (2) to release from installed position.
Rotate device 180 degrees so tab (1) is in the rear of the shift control assembly.
Secure integral pins (4) in holes located on shifter base by pushing down device (2).

5. Secure adjuster locks (3) by pushing down until locked. One for each cable.

Note:
During this procedure DO NOT touch or preload the fixed shift lever as this may cause mis-adjustment to the shift system.

6. Reposition the reverse lockout device with the following instructions:
Push down on tab (1) and pull up on device (2) to release from installed position.
Rotate device (2) 180 degrees so tab (1) is in the front of the shift control assembly.
Push downward on the reverse lockout device (2) until tab (1) snaps into detent

17%2B-%2B1

Note:
When unblocking the blocking device (1) a defined snap noise should be audible, a snap effect should be felt.

7. Unblock the shift control housing, push slightly the selector lever (2) backwards and pull (arrow) the blocking device away from the shift control housing.

8. Install the floor console. Refer to Front Floor Console Replacement.

9. Verify correct operation of the transmission control assembly.
 
Last edited:
Boy-Dirt-Car

Boy-Dirt-Car

Member
In the Instructions that mja posted:

"The hole of the transmission gear control (2) must be aligned to the hole in the base so the pin (1) can pass thru both."

What Pin?

#(1) in the picture is the tab that releases the shifter shaft.

/me=Confused
 
C

cuartz7o

New member
Boy-Dirt-Car said:
In the Instructions that mja posted:

"The hole of the transmission gear control (2) must be aligned to the hole in the base so the pin (1) can pass thru both."

What Pin?

#(1) in the picture is the tab that releases the shifter shaft.

/me=Confused
Click to expand...
Yea doing this mod /fix was hard for me to follow so I have not tried to. I know others have, hopefully someone can chime in

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B

Big Turbo Sonic

Member
Boy-Dirt-Car said:
In the Instructions that mja posted:

"The hole of the transmission gear control (2) must be aligned to the hole in the base so the pin (1) can pass thru both."

What Pin?

#(1) in the picture is the tab that releases the shifter shaft.

/me=Confused
Click to expand...

The pin is already in the transmission. It is labeled number one. It has a black little plastic piece that you push down on while playing with the lever. Number one is the pin.
 
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B

Big Turbo Sonic

Member
cuartz7o said:
Clutch delay valve delete for the m32 6 speed. I've seen it done on the cruze forum not on the sonic forum. There's a video of the 5 min process on youtube but I have not tried it on my car yet (or even located the valve yet). I would try it though since it's reversible.

https://youtu.be/UEbY-WPMljY

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Click to expand...

I checked this out. My car does not have that little piece in there. Either removed by previous owner (unlikely) or mine never came with one.
 
ScarabEpic22

ScarabEpic22

Member
I just checked my 13 RS 6MT and I don't have the CDV indicated in the video either. My clutch line goes straight into the fitting.
 
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cuartz7o

New member
ScarabEpic22 said:
I just checked my 13 RS 6MT and I don't have the CDV indicated in the video either. My clutch line goes straight into the fitting.
Click to expand...
May just be a cruze option since the sonic is more "sport" oriented than the cruze? I need to check mine now ('13 RS)

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Toadz

Toadz

New member
Checked out my '14 Sonic and it does have the valve but it is different than the Cruze valve. The hydraulic line comes in perpendicular to the valve as opposed to Cruze hydraulic line being inline with the valve. I'll post a picture of it the next chance I get.
 
B

Big Turbo Sonic

Member
Well aside from the CDV delete discussion, my problem got really bad the other day. About a week ago is when the second gear grind first started to occur. It only occurred when I was down shifting into second. I Already had 2.5qts of amsoil 75-90 in so I tried the shifter adjustment. That didnt work. All of a sudden it started to become really hard to get into reverse. Tried the adjustment again and the problem persisted.

A few days go by and I am driving, and I pulled in 2nd gear to pass someone. After that it was noticeably hard to shift. About 8 miles down the road I start coming to a stop (in first clutch pedal in) and the car starts shaking violently. Pull out of first and try to go back in (moved stick towards first with clutch pedal all the way down) and the car begins moving forward. I tried the cable adjustment one more time and nothing. Had to get towed by my dad.

Pulled the trans out yesterday because I suspected a bad throwout bearing due whats seems the lack of disengagement. Bearing and clutch both appear to be okay.

Any ideas??

Symptoms:
1. Initially couldnt engage 2nd gear.
2. Later became hard for reverse.
3. Later on lost all engagement of gears.
4. With lightweight flywheels (like mine) they chatter when the clutch pedal is out. Pedal depressed, the noise stops. Regardless of pedal position my trans chatters.
5. Still had pedal pressure.
 
C

cuartz7o

New member
Big Turbo Sonic said:
Well aside from the CDV delete discussion, my problem got really bad the other day. About a week ago is when the second gear grind first started to occur. It only occurred when I was down shifting into second. I Already had 2.5qts of amsoil 75-90 in so I tried the shifter adjustment. That didnt work. All of a sudden it started to become really hard to get into reverse. Tried the adjustment again and the problem persisted.

A few days go by and I am driving, and I pulled in 2nd gear to pass someone. After that it was noticeably hard to shift. About 8 miles down the road I start coming to a stop (in first clutch pedal in) and the car starts shaking violently. Pull out of first and try to go back in (moved stick towards first with clutch pedal all the way down) and the car begins moving forward. I tried the cable adjustment one more time and nothing. Had to get towed by my dad.

Pulled the trans out yesterday because I suspected a bad throwout bearing due whats seems the lack of disengagement. Bearing and clutch both appear to be okay.

Any ideas??

Symptoms:
1. Initially couldnt engage 2nd gear.
2. Later became hard for reverse.
3. Later on lost all engagement of gears.
4. With lightweight flywheels (like mine) they chatter when the clutch pedal is out. Pedal depressed, the noise stops. Regardless of pedal position my trans chatters.
5. Still had pedal pressure.
Click to expand...
Is the black adjustment pin on the transmission in the middle position? When I installed my M tech shifter I accidentally pushed it in a but and couldn't hit 5th/6th. When I moved it back to the middle position all was good.

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B

Big Turbo Sonic

Member
cuartz7o said:
Is the black adjustment pin on the transmission in the middle position? When I installed my M tech shifter I accidentally pushed it in a but and couldn't hit 5th/6th. When I moved it back to the middle position all was good.

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Click to expand...

Pin was all the way out.

I also pulled apart the tranny to check out the gearbox and I did not see anything alarming.
 
Tormach

Tormach

Member
Big Turbo Sonic said:
Well I found the problem. I blew up my spec stage 2+ clutch disk. Thanks to all that contributed to my problem.
Click to expand...
Ouch, that sucks man.. that wasn't cheap but def better then a blown trans.

How many miles did you get out of it and do you plan to go to the next stage or two?

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