Second gear grinding & remedy
- Thread starter gsxr1000
- Start date
Eric Smit
Enforcer
bahahahahahaha.
krakenredbeard
New member
So fluid.... Fluid. As much a difference as the cable adjustment except now absolutely no grind lol.
Fry
New member
I'm wanting to do this before it starts getting cold. I haven't had any grinding, but my spirited driving is pretty gentle on shifting. Based on comments, I gather doing this is placing a higher quality fluid in the transmission. Basically, I want to prevent any grinding from happening.
I just want to clarify something. The original post was edited to include current information, but it states that 2.5 quarts of fluid are used. However, throughout the thread it's referred to as 2 quarts.
Based on the number of occurrences by different people, I imagine the amount is 2 quarts. But I want to double check and encourage the OP to update the amount if a change is necessary.
Would someone please confirm that the amount of fluid to change the M32?
Thank you!
I just want to clarify something. The original post was edited to include current information, but it states that 2.5 quarts of fluid are used. However, throughout the thread it's referred to as 2 quarts.
Based on the number of occurrences by different people, I imagine the amount is 2 quarts. But I want to double check and encourage the OP to update the amount if a change is necessary.
Would someone please confirm that the amount of fluid to change the M32?
Thank you!
krakenredbeard
New member
I used 2.5
KartRacer
Member
While I wont dispute that the manual can be made to grind, and probably should not, clearly this engine makes its power at 4500rpm. Revving to 5 or 6K is a waste of time ( literally). Shifting early and letting boost make your power saves from rushing the shift and overtaxing the Synchros.
I believe a well driven RS shifted at peak torque RPM against a RS shifted above 5500 will be out a car length at the finish.
Could be wrong but I no longer rev my RS to shift and have no grinding issues.
I believe a well driven RS shifted at peak torque RPM against a RS shifted above 5500 will be out a car length at the finish.
Could be wrong but I no longer rev my RS to shift and have no grinding issues.
ChrisJ
Active member
While I wont dispute that the manual can be made to grind, and probably should not, clearly this engine makes its power at 4500rpm. Revving to 5 or 6K is a waste of time ( literally). Shifting early and letting boost make your power saves from rushing the shift and overtaxing the Synchros.
I believe a well driven RS shifted at peak torque RPM against a RS shifted above 5500 will be out a car length at the finish.
Could be wrong but I no longer rev my RS to shift and have no grinding issues.
If the HP peak is @ 5500 then you want to shift slightly above that, something like 6K. Otherwise you're going to shift when you're peaked and drop too far below the peak.
Shifting @ 6K keeps you closer to the peak on both the lower and higher side.
KartRacer
Member
Two points, Trifecta I believe shows peak under 5000, and everyone on the forum has stated the tach is slow. So shifting at 4500 would actually likely be 5000 and then would be back in the power curve, make sense or am I lost?
ChrisJ
Active member
The tach is slow and no, I don't think you can make that assumption. I shift when I feel the power start to drop off, I don't bother with the tach. You can easily tell when it's time to shift.
It might not be good enough down at the strip but it's fine on the street.
According to GM's chart in stock form that peak stays pretty flat from 4900 to around 6k.
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KartRacer
Member
ChrisJ
That is where the difference is, stock tune verses Trifecta tune. Clearly stock tune holds peak torque through the upper limit. Trifecta torque peak runs from 3650 through 4300.
ChrisJ
Active member
Sounds kinda backwards but ok.
KartRacer
Member
On the original topic, I find that there is a bit of resistance upshifting into all gears and especially 2nd and double-clutching helps tremendously. I clutch once to remove from the previous gear and go to neutral (and you don't have to be so careful putting the pedal to the floor on this one), then clutch again to go from neutral to next gear, shifts smooth as butter but it does take an extra fraction of a second. I also have the high RPM grind going from 1st-2nd and the double-clutching makes it smooth every time.
Stew
Sedans Rule!
I might have to brush up on my double clutching skills, I got the second gear grind today bad while hot dogging it on a freeway on ramp.
ReeseLightning
New member
Props to Preloader and the post on how to reposition the shifter cable lines in order to keep from grinding!!
I bought my wife a 2014 ECO 6m last August. It's at 17k miles now, and the shifter has always been very smooth, no issues. I've driven her car the last 3 weeks, then drove my 2013 RS 6m... The trans is terrible 1st-2nd, and 2nd to 3rd is marginally better. 4-5-6 all good. I have been running Amsoil transmission fluid for the last 15k miles (I just hit 41k miles on the car).
I took my car back to the Chevy dealership to have the transmission looked at. "Technician could not reproduce the problem" was what I got back. So yesterday I returned to get my car, and had a QC guy go with me as I demonstrated the issues with shifting into 2nd from 1st gear. There's a physical bind of some sort where you feel the engagement of "something" then with more pressure you are finally into 2nd gear. If accelerating quickly, and not doing a semi quick, but not aggressive shift, you'll feel like it's in gear, but it's not-- and you get the grind. They put in a ticket with GM to see what the resolution is, and until then I am driving my car as is... and I double clutch to get through 2nd and 3rd gear.
Anyone have GM step up and replace a transmission that does this? I want what my wife's Cruze has. A transmission that shifts properly, smoothly.
I took my car back to the Chevy dealership to have the transmission looked at. "Technician could not reproduce the problem" was what I got back. So yesterday I returned to get my car, and had a QC guy go with me as I demonstrated the issues with shifting into 2nd from 1st gear. There's a physical bind of some sort where you feel the engagement of "something" then with more pressure you are finally into 2nd gear. If accelerating quickly, and not doing a semi quick, but not aggressive shift, you'll feel like it's in gear, but it's not-- and you get the grind. They put in a ticket with GM to see what the resolution is, and until then I am driving my car as is... and I double clutch to get through 2nd and 3rd gear.
Anyone have GM step up and replace a transmission that does this? I want what my wife's Cruze has. A transmission that shifts properly, smoothly.
Papasonic
Active member
I still believe the major cause of the difficult 1-2 shift, is the throttle by wire system. When the throttle pedal is lifted, the engine RPM does not immediately lower as it would if the throttle was directly connected to your foot. This causes a difficult shift, as there is still torque applied to the transmission when a shift is attempted.
Shifting quickly and at higher RPM only makes the problem more noticeable.
Shifting quickly and at higher RPM only makes the problem more noticeable.
