Any way to disable Auto Window UP?

[ChicksHateMe]

I didn't mean to confuse you. I was just guessing the Holden Barina offered the same option of an auto up/down windows as the Sonic, but seeing as they sit on the opposite side of me in my US Sonic, I figured maybe they had the up/down motor designed for the right side rather that the left, like mine. And I'd think it's just for the driver.

That's why I thought "maybe" a motor from a Barina could be put in a passenger door to get the auto up/down function, but it would need the wire run, and that "special switch and circuit" too.

This is just guessing as I haven't done much research, but I would think the motor used with the auto up/down has different circuitry built in, and that's why it has a different model number than the driver site back window. If it does, it's either self contained, or it has one more wire that runs up to the switch.

I don't think it's totally self contained because of the way people say that switch feels different, so I am guessing there's one extra wire running up to the switch to tell it when the torque is low, allowing it to stay on. Again I am guessing, but when the torque gets above a threshold, I would think it cuts the signal to the switch in the door, and stopping the window from going up further.

An extra wire from the driver door window motor to the driver door window switch would be cheap to implement. And I would think it it broke, that would also kill the signal, so the window wouldn't go up again unless pressed. If they have that design backwards, so it needs a signal to stop, it would be a lawsuit waiting to happen, but Chevy has had some electrical design issues in the past.

I think if someone could look at a driver side back and front motor, they'd probably see an extra wire, and then know which one to cut to stop the auto up from working. I haven't needed the electrical diagram, but I bet someone could get it, or sneak a peek at a dealership to see.

 

[ChicksHateMe]

mja,

I looked at that circuit in your link. I wouldn't trust it either.

Like jgrote said, I hate it all the time too. Kid safety was first, but after using it, and trying to get it to stop in a certain spot it's really a pain in the butt.

If someone doesn't figure out how to disable it, and if I am keeping my car, I will open the door and see if I can figure an easy way to disable it myself (in the spring, cause winter's here).

 

[mja]

good ideas, good ideas. I'll look into it and post up what I find, been working a lot lately.

 

[jgrote]

mja, how was the switch that you removed attached to the circuit board? Did it just snap on or did you need to de-solder something to get it off? I am wondering whether it would be a better idea to try and make one of the manual switches fit in the auto spot or modify the auto-switch to act like a manual. By the looks of the board, it would be easier to modify the auto-switch. I'm also curious if anyone has confirmed that the LS does not have this "feature". The other question would be, does the LS have auto-down, but not auto-up, or totally manual?

 

[mja]

jgrote,

The black plastic portion of the manual switch is attached with plastic snaps, they're easily removed with a small screw driver and pop back on.

There would be no way of moving the switch from the manual position to the auto. The auto works by depressing a mechanism downward on a rubber/plastic contact on the circuit board. The manual works by an old fashioned copper breaker type circuit. If the LS has all 4 old fashioned switches this would be ideal for modding, switch feel would all be the same and the LED's added could be positioned at the same point in the switch so they don't look different.

You're right, an LS switch is the best way to go if that's how it is. Then add on full auto circuits to all 4 which can be disabled with a small push button type switch added to the face. I read about the LS switch in another post but it's not too clear:

http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...15444-turn-off-window-auto-open-sensor-3.html

 

[mja]

Actually guys, the circuit board is labelled 'AU' and 'AD'. pretty sure that's auto up and auto down. And it looks as if there is one copper contact in the middle leading straight to the AU, and probably another one leading to AD, so it may just be a matter of clipping two wires. will check this out soon, soo many things to do!

 

[ChicksHateMe]

mja,

Looking closer, it is making more sense, but I am guessing a bit too....

Interpreting the Boards Name - T300 PWD SAFETY LHD I would guess means "Power Window Detection SAFETY Left Hand Driver. Probably a similar board, but designed for a Right Hand Driver, in the Barina's.

Most of the switch contacts make sense too;

U1 - Up 1
D1 - Down 1
AT - Auto Torque ??
E- - Not sure, but maybe earth or ground for the AT??

The rest are just Normal switches. U2, U3, U4, D2, D3, D4

B1+, Battery Can't see B2+ and B3+ but are probably there.....

SO, the normal switches just supply battery to the motors Ux or Dx from Bx when pressed in one direction or the other.

For the Driver's power windows (still guessing) It looks like all the control circuitry is elsewhere, probably in the motor unit itself.

Seeing as the driver circuitry has the 4 position touch pad I would probably put a small piece of electrical tape over the AU and AD Contacts on the circuit board. Then I'd re-assemble it and see if they disable the AU (Auto Up) and AD (Auto Down) with no bad side effects.

If the tape worked, I think I'd rather cut the trace on the circuit board rather than cut wires or leave a piece of tape there. I'd cut the circuit trace thin enough so it stopped it from working but yet I could easily jumper with solder if I wanted it back. I'd make the cut closest to connector, and not right under where the touch pad would be.


Was the switch pretty easy to get to? Would I have to remove the door panel?

Thanks!!!

 

[ChicksHateMe]

mja,

Reading back now, for you to get ALL windows to work like this would be a bit of a project.

I was thinking about how to do it. A lot. But I was getting too complicated and expensive. I was thinking towards using the Chevy window motor from the driver front in the driver rear. Also the Barina's driver one for the right-side windows. Then designing some simple circuit myself. Even using a cheapo 4 button wireless remote with circuitry I've gotten off eBay before, but it's too much work.

I think something like what you linked to would be the cheapest and easiest route to go, if you could wire it in.

I did see this, and it has OK reviews. I cringe at the thought of lil fingers getting caught, so I couldn't do it. But if someone wants it, this seems like the cheapest and easiest way.

Amazon.com : Install Essentials 530T Window Automation System : Automotive Electronic Security Products : Electronics

It was unavailable when I looked, but probably can get it somewhere still. I even saw it was sold and installed at BestBuy at some point. Maybe it's been discontinued because of lawsuits.... Hmmm

Any way. Good luck with your project and thanks for opening up that switch, I think you've showed me how I can easily disable the feature

 

[mja]

chickshateme -

good insight, thanks for your thoughts. now I have an agenda after work to preoccupy myself with. Will take pics of the switch/panel removal and post em up.

first order of business this evening is making tiramisu for christmas gifts. If it turns out delicious the pics may have to wait, could be eating that stuff for a while.

 

[ChicksHateMe]

Just wondering if I have to remove door panel or is it just popping up the switch panel, like it's clipped in and just that can be removed?

I'd go look, but my car's in shop again as they try to solve the water coming in my passenger side air vent issue. 3rd time in since September, grrrr....

Yeah Pics can wait. Didn't know what Tiramisu was, so I had to look it up. My mouth's watering now. Thanks A LOT!!!...

 

[mja]

chickshateme -

didn't have time to play with the wiring got distracted. mmm tiramisu. ate half my xmas mini-gifts.

to get the switch out, remove the door panel. Took 10 min the first time and a few minutes the second time.

1) remove the small plastic triangle piece covering the door's side view mirror area. Don't pull straight out, pull or push as directly upward as you can, toward the sky.

2) remove two 7mm bolts holding the door panel on. one is under a plastic cap located in the solid door hold (not door handle) area. The 2nd is behind the door handle panel. Pull the door handle open and you'll see a small indention on the bottom left of the tetrahedral looking panel. get a small flathead and pry that little indent area and it pops right out.

3) remove the door panel just like any made since about the mid 90s. pull back on the bottom part of the panel and then when all the poppers are undone, push/pull up to the sky to pop it outa the window jam.

4) unhook the 2 connectors to the window switch and the power mirror switch. the door handle latch is connected with a cable, don't break it!

5) door is off, remove 6 steel torx head screws (T-15 ish, duno) on the back of the door panel holding this assembly on:

Once you get this far you'll see the plastic clips holding the window switch in place. take the switch out, then there's one steel phillips holding the switch itself together, along with clips around the outside, undo the screw and clips to take it apart.

 

[ChicksHateMe]

mja,

Thanks for the Step-by-Step. I am gonna cut and paste, and save for the warmer weather (no garage).

Go ahead and have the rest of the Tiramisu, get them gift cards!

Happy holidays!!!

 

[krakenredbeard]

Man you guys have made heaps of progress on this. I'd like auto up and down on the fronts. So I'll keep watching this thread for hopeful solutions.

 

[mja]

will do chickshateme! Been busy w/ xmas stuff.

Ya kraken updates will come as soon as I or someone else gets time and cohones enough to start cutting wires and splice in switch controllers and other delish goodies

 

[mja]

Well guys, back to this idea. I rented a Chevy Equinox from the dealer while the sonic is getting fixed. I noticed it has an all auto-down feature for all the windows, from the switch panel on the front driver side.

So I checked the Buick Verano, and it also has the same style switch. Referencing the owners manual of the Verano online, all Verano's have auto-down switch and only some have auto-up for the front.

After inspecting a few window switches I have in my garage, I have a sneaky suspension these car's switches from the same years may fit physically in ours: Trax, Cruze, Malibu, Equinox, Volt, Verano, Lacrosse, ATS, XTS. I could be wrong. However, the Sonic and Trax are the only ones with a different wiring harness connector. :blankface: The sonic/trax have a 14/15-pin connector, and the others have an 8-pin connector.

The Sonic and Trax window units are different however. The Trax needs to be reset after a power cut-off (batt. disconnection) in order for the auto-express up feature to work. I didn't find this in the Sonic owners manual. Most likely something to do with the BCM programming, or in the Trax switch itself, which is doubtful since I'm pretty sure the Sonic/Trax use the same switches.

I'm getting a Sonic LS window switch, and a switch from a Verano + harness connector, will play around some more when I get my car back.

... Am emailing AC Delco and GM parts to get a PN on the wiring harness + leads for the 8-pin master window switch connector.

 

[mja]

Left - sonic LS switch, middle - Sonic LT/LTZ/RS, right - other GM models. Physically, the switch portions are all the same dimensions and should pop right into the door trim.

The sonic harness will not fit the other model GM switches, still waiting on the harness for this switch. And from the looks of it the other models' switches may be more bcm controlled than the sonic's higher model trim, which is controlled on the switch circuit itself. The LS trim switch is the oldschool copper variety. Those wanting to add auto-window up/down aftermarket equipment would want to begin with the LS switch. Also for folks who love to drive with windows down in the rain, the LS switch should short less. Still waiting to test these, dont have car back yet :/

 

[BigLee]

Sorry for dragging up an old thread,
mja, I'm curious about where you acquired that sonic(?) window switch without the express feature?
Did you buy it new, or did you get it from a junkyard?
The (U.S.) GM parts catalogs dont show the part #
(95188246) as being a valid part #.
Not sure if it was ever a valid U.S. part # or not.

It does show up on Ebay, but mostly from Asian and European sellers.
I'm curious about this because I want to eliminate the express feature because it pisses me off more than anything else, but also because I modified the window relay to supply constant voltage to the windows so I can roll them up or down without having turn the ignition on.
But the other three windows only respond to this mod.
The drivers window does not.
Apparently, the logic module in the driver window motor requires active serial data signal from the BCM to operate.

Also, do you know if the electrical plugs are the same for both the std. and express. Switches?
They look likely might be, but I've only seen pics oth them, so I'm not sure.

 

[ChicksHateMe]

Sorry for dragging up an old thread,
mja, I'm curious about where you acquired that sonic(?) window switch without the express feature?
Did you buy it new, or did you get it from a junkyard?
The (U.S.) GM parts catalogs dont show the part #
(95188246) as being a valid part #.
Not sure if it was ever a valid U.S. part # or not.

It does show up on Ebay, but mostly from Asian and European sellers.
I'm curious about this because I want to eliminate the express feature because it pisses me off more than anything else, but also because I modified the window relay to supply constant voltage to the windows so I can roll them up or down without having turn the ignition on.
But the other three windows only respond to this mod.
The drivers window does not.
Apparently, the logic module in the driver window motor requires active serial data signal from the BCM to operate.

Also, do you know if the electrical plugs are the same for both the std. and express. Switches?
They look likely might be, but I've only seen pics oth them, so I'm not sure.

I never went further on this, but I'm still curious about it Disabling it myself...

I think if you wanted to DISABLE the Auto-Up(AU)/Auto-Down(AD) like I want to do, all You'd have to do is open the switch and either cover the contacts on the board, cut the etch or trace those connections back to the harness and cut just those wires.

Personally, I would just put a piece of plastic glued over the contacts on the board, or just electrical tape, just to stop the AU/AD contacts from being used. (See mja's post #16 image showing the circuit board).