ATTN: If you have a tune please read

[sonix13]

From Walker from MPFab "I see peak boost pressure of 29psi depending on where in the rpm band I punch it. I've been running 26-27psi for about a year with power ranging from 280-310whp. What appears to be a crack on my manifold doesn't leak so I think mine is more of inconsistency in how it was manufactured."

So they probably aren't leaking at all, just another crap job on manufacturing parts.

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

If there is one thing I don't like about the clip idea is that even if it keeps the crack from opening, there will still be air coming out even if pressing on it since the air will come out from a different section. I like the idea of an aluminum Intake manifold since you can essentially get rid of the structural problems that a plastic one would have, You wouldn't have to worry about porting it out by cutting out tabs and you could probably make an external thermal barrier to keep the air nice and cold going into the motor. If it's $600 for a permanent solution, then I'd rather pay the 600 one time vs. a cheap temp fix or clamps or even 300+ for a new manifold every 4 months. In my book, structural integrity of a part should also be a consideration along with performance gains when you buy a car part. So even though you won't get many more performance gains short term with the aluminum IM, you're getting long term performance with room to up the power because of structural reasons. Now another reason for going with an aluminum intake manifold, You can make easier to fit in the back of the engine bay than the ****ty plastic unit while still giving the same amount, if not more airflow.

Sorry for the ADD post on this. This is mostly just my $0.02 on this subject.

 

[RMinNJ]

An aluminum all metal manifold is the durable solution.. but would it be ported or not

Looking at the plastic engine um..I mean intake manifold.. it looks like one can put 3 giant hose clamps (definitely tie wraps) around it down the length with manifold still on the engine.

I can just see the mechanics working on my car;
"what are all these clamps, tie wraps, and glue for?"
"Those are so the intake manifold doesn't blow back into the dash and kill me.."

 

[rodslinger]

I

I was thinking of something like this:

http://www.araymondtinnerman.com/en/resources/images/subfamily/photos/8.jpg


Maybe there is some high temperature glue can seal it with now before it separates?

I was headed down the same path. I've used items like these on non-automotive issues. You can get them in varying metal gauge thickness and tension.

PANEL CLIPS - U-TYPE BARBED SPECIAL FOR PANEL EDGE

Put a little Lord Maxlok on the seam before installing the clip and that sum-bitch will never come apart.

LORD Maxlok? MX/T3 Acrylic Adhesive | LORD Corp

 

[Wub2Dub]

I checked mine out. I see some very slight separation, but I think it will be fine for a while. Now to port! Got my Dremel ready.


2012 Chevy Sonic LTZ (hatch)
MPFab CAI, Forge BOV, ZZP Turbo Back, Trifecta Elite Tuned, bypass valve "bypass", MPFab FMIC, Ultra Gauge

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

I won't have a care in the world about my intake manifold in the next few upcoming months since I won't be driving my hedgehog this winter. I'm going to be swapping in a new motor in the spring and taking the old one and seeing what I can do to make it stronger.

 

[Wub2Dub]

Ok so I finished porting and had to thoroughly rinse it out due to plastic bits only to notice two leaks under no pressure. :/ Yay for plastic...


2012 Chevy Sonic LTZ (hatch)
MPFab CAI, Forge BOV, ZZP Turbo Back, Trifecta Elite Tuned, bypass valve "bypass", MPFab FMIC, Ultra Gauge

 

[MORTIS]

Ok so I finished porting and had to thoroughly rinse it out due to plastic bits only to notice two leaks under no pressure. :/ Yay for plastic...

That was a fast porting job! So now that you have the IM out of the car, you're in the best position to seal it up. How do you plan to do that?

So far its mostly tuned owners reporting back after inspecting their manifolds, and most of those have observed at least some small gaps in the seam. I only have about 500 kilometers on my stock Sonic but but I'll give it a closer look shortly anyway.

 

[Wub2Dub]

Well I just got a Dremel today for this purpose. It was easier than expected. I also purchased a tube of plastic epoxy. Might be a tad ugly. I wont know till I see how it dries. Maybe a little sanding. Idk Lol Don't care right now.


2012 Chevy Sonic LTZ (hatch)
MPFab CAI, Forge BOV, ZZP Turbo Back, Trifecta Elite Tuned, bypass valve "bypass", MPFab FMIC, Ultra Gauge

 

[rsSteve]

I don't really think we will be able to get a clean fix and strong fix together with out making some kind of sacrifice.

Function > Form

 

[DocS]

Mines bone stock with 61k on it and I found a little split on the IM. Looks like this is something all of us will have to deal with.

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

 

[greentib]

I can just see the mechanics working on my car;
"what are all these clamps, tie wraps, and glue for?"
"Those are so the intake manifold doesn't blow back into the dash and kill me.."

I love it, best part would be to see mechanics face when you say that.

 

[MORTIS]

View attachment 11375
Mines bone stock with 61k on it and I found a little split on the IM. Looks like this is something all of us will have to deal with.

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Man I'm surprised how many people have dirty engines. I never have a dirty engine no matter how old my cars get.

Anyway, that gap in your pic could just be slight inconsistencies in the molded halves, however I wouldn't be surprised if you're right; and I'd even be willing to bet that more than a few random manifolds come from the factory with at least tiny leaks. GM may even figure that occasional small leaks are passable and that the computer will just compensate, or it will just mean the power output among all the 1.4T's will vary slightly.

I had a look at mine this evening which is still the stock tune and there's a gap at the same spot as in your pic but about a 3rd the length, just wide enough to fit a fingernail. My stock power feels very good so maybe its not a leak... but who knows.

 

[DocS]

I just bought it used last week. My power is way low, turns out there's a damn hose clamp missing from the hot side of the intercooler. I still haven't had a chance to clean the engine. I think there was a freaking squirrel living in the engine compartment before because there's a bunch of acorn debris. Buy used and you buy someone else's problems lol.

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

 

[MORTIS]

^ Ok you're forgiven... for now

I just bought it used last week. My power is way low, turns out there's a damn hose clamp missing from the hot side of the intercooler. I still haven't had a chance to clean the engine. I think there was a freaking squirrel living in the engine compartment before because there's a bunch of acorn debris. Buy used and you buy someone else's problems lol.

That's why I hate to buy anything used; most people don't take care of things well enough.

 

[Wub2Dub]

That's ok. I found a large dent in the underbody and torn metal from a jack being put in the wrong place.


2012 Chevy Sonic LTZ (hatch)
MPFab CAI, Forge BOV, 2.5" SS turbo back, Trifecta Elite Tuned, bypass valve "bypass", MPFab FMIC, Ultra Gauge, ported intake mani

 

[MaD]

What about a alum cast IM?? Doing a sand cast 1 piece would be hella cheaper and still be mod able.... just trying to think outside the box a lil... if anyone has access to a 3D printer... now that would be the sh!t.... just sayin.. [emoji41]

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[tpayne]

I agree a $600 permanent fix is better then a cheap fix that needs to continue to be done. And the advantage of more boost is totally worth it. I would totally be down to be a guinea pig. Sign me up.

 

[Musichatesyouall]

Stock tune. I have MPFabs intake and I've bypassed the B.S. (haha) Looks like I have a bit of a split too.

Edit: 50k miles 2012 Turbo Hatch



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[MORTIS]

Stock tune. I have MPFabs intake and I've bypassed the B.S. (haha) Looks like I have a bit of a split too.

Edit: 50k miles 2012 Turbo Hatch

View attachment 11380

Again that may just be an inconsistency between the molded halves, but yeah it might be a leak.
How is your stock power feeling?

I wish there was a quick way to check for leaks on these manifolds.