Deaddog Saloon
- Thread starter SSpeckerwood
- Start date
ChrisJ
Active member
Bah you suck. Your someone I would've preferred to sell to.
mid 12's in the 1/4... hint... hint.
Unlike a car, doing that on a quad makes you think you're gonna die.
AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
Lol hint hint. I wanna buy a crotch rocket if I can ever find one I can still touch the ground with
Yosemite Sam
I Hates Rabbits!
Lol hint hint. I wanna buy a crotch rocket if I can ever find one I can still touch the ground with
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
Bah you suck. Your someone I would've preferred to sell to.
mid 12's in the 1/4... hint... hint.
Unlike a car, doing that on a quad makes you think you're gonna die.
Hahaha, the chopped 1200 bandit we built made you feel like your gonna die too
ChrisJ
Active member
I need an oxy/acetylene torch for brazing refrigerant lines. This is a hobby of mine so I don't do it much and the torch won't see much if any abuse.
Can anyone tell me if the cheap kits I see for $100-200 are decent or if I should really go after something like a Victor kit?
Can anyone tell me if the cheap kits I see for $100-200 are decent or if I should really go after something like a Victor kit?
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The M32 Martyr
If you are only doing refer lines 1/2" and smaller.... save your money. You don't need oxy/ace, it's overkill IMO.
You can braze with just acetylene. A B-tank and torch and some 15%silv/phos rod. 15% silver will flow very smooth.
Much cheaper, simpler, and will save space. We use straight acetylene at work for brazing 1" and smaller CA lines. Just don't forget to purge the inside with argon or nitrogen while you are brazing to prevent oxidization.
You can braze with just acetylene. A B-tank and torch and some 15%silv/phos rod. 15% silver will flow very smooth.
Much cheaper, simpler, and will save space. We use straight acetylene at work for brazing 1" and smaller CA lines. Just don't forget to purge the inside with argon or nitrogen while you are brazing to prevent oxidization.
ChrisJ
Active member
I wish I could remember what size the suction line is but it may be 3/8". I have a MAPP torch, is that as hot as a b tank torch? I've been told a MAPP torch isn't hot enough for some of the joints I need to make due to there being several layers of copper. One of them is a flare joint which fits over a brass machined valve seat.
I'm considering something like this as it seems to be a smaller scale oxy/acetylene setup.
TurboTorch CST-PT Oxy/Acetelyne Welding Braze Kit 0386-1321: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Already have a nitrogen regulator, waiting on buying a tank as I'm broke right now. I've seen comparisons of brazing with and without it and I can't believe some guys actually braze refrigerant lines without it. Probably not their own....
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The M32 Martyr
I would think MAPP should be plenty hot enough. Braze rod fuses at approx 12-1400deg F. MAPP burns at approx 5000F.
Most refrigerants contaminate very easily, I would absolutely purge with nitrogen.
Also if the valve seat is copper, you should be fine. If its brass, you will need a special flux to join it to copper. And lastly, make sure every surface is spotless (sand with scotchbrite) any dirt or debri will flare off gases and create a void in your joint.
Most refrigerants contaminate very easily, I would absolutely purge with nitrogen.
Also if the valve seat is copper, you should be fine. If its brass, you will need a special flux to join it to copper. And lastly, make sure every surface is spotless (sand with scotchbrite) any dirt or debri will flare off gases and create a void in your joint.
ChrisJ
Active member
Yeah, I'm quite nervous about the whole project. I also understand I will need 45% silver if I want to work with the copper to stainless joint on the evaporator? I think the main complaint with MAPP was problems with heating items connected to the line.
It amazes me that they knew all this 80+years ago and were able to make these units so spotless during assembly. Before these refrigerators, any refrigeration system was a dangerous nitemare that often poisoned its owner from leaks. Either that or they just broke down due to other problems. I guess GE knew their **** back then.
This is an example of what I need to do, though it keeps changing as other guys learn more about it. Essentially the issue is the valve seats are shot and need to be drilled out and then converted to a capillary tube setup.
CA-1-B15 capillary conversion | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
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The M32 Martyr
Well, you got me. I have never nor probably will join copper to SS. But my best advise if you only have one shot at getting it right, is to practice joining some scrap copper/SS joints first.
45% silver should flow like melted butter though, so I'd def apply most of the heat to the SS to pull the rod in.
45% silver should flow like melted butter though, so I'd def apply most of the heat to the SS to pull the rod in.
