my car falls on its face!

D

dbarrett231

New member
Scot said:
I know exactly what happened - it is your tune and a combination of your fuel's octane rating.



Our ECU has a calibration that limits total airflow into the engine based on any knock it sees. This is a safety measure, as enough spark retard will overspeed your turbo and could cause a chain-reaction failure.



So, by the time you hit third gear, you've built up enough heat to generate some knock, and your ECU is closing your throttle to limit the airflow. I've seen this on my car and am very familiar with it.
Click to expand...


Anything I can do to fix it or help it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Scot

Scot

Athletic Supporter
There are things your tuner could do, but I believe they're too lazy.

email some logs of this problem and I'll see if I can read them - I don't know if I can read their logfiles or not, but if I can, I'll verify your problem and see if there is anything you can do for it.
scot_douglas@gmail.com

also - have any pictures of your "custom intake"
 
Nimda

Nimda

New member
sx sonic said:
Newer SIs are about 3000 lbs and have around 175hp/150 tq. Far from sports car.

With a tune we weigh less, have 160hp and 210tq with a way broader spread of power. Should be close to favoring the Sonic.

Mines at 2700 lbs, 175hp and 215 tq. I walk dem Honda's errday. Lol.


Op if you have an UltraGauge monitor knock and boost psi as another member suggested. Somethings off as the car shouldnt just give up the ghost in one gear.



Also people- something to keep in mind about the tach. While it has been proven to lag, it's only under certain conditions and exacerbated with certain variables.

Neutral, then 1st, then 2nd allow the engine to wind up the quickest. Thus they would allow for the greatest % of tach error. The higher the gear the slower the engine can accelerate and the easier it is for the tach to keep up (or more accurately the circuit and processor that drives the tach).

Things that increase the rate at which the engine accelerates will exacerbate the error. These would include a lightweight clutch and a tune.


Just throwing that out there since it appears that some people think a 500 rpm lag in 1st equals a 500rpm lag in all gears... That is definitely not the case.

Also the large lag that was brought to our attention was on a sonic making alot more power than stock and with a lightweight clutch, and shorter gearing.
Click to expand...

9th gen Honda Civics have about 200hp and 170ft-lbs of torque... Unless you're talking about wheel horsepower? Then that probably sounds about right.. 175whp from the k24. I also realize that the term "sports car" is used very loosely but I'll still say the Si qualifies as a budget sports car.
 
Scot

Scot

Athletic Supporter
Just saw a pic of your intake - I'd bet your intake temps are causing the knock that in turn limits your throttle.
 
Scot

Scot

Athletic Supporter
No heat shield == bad.

You're driving up the temp of the engine bay when you're gettin on it - and you're sucking in the hot air.
 
L

laborsmith

New member
My solution was the vented hood Seibon sells but some form of heat shield like DDM has should also be effective.

Laborsmith
 
1

1980PontiacWagon

New member
Intake temps

Speaking of intake temps. I'm curious as to what everyone is seeing.
For example, today it was 80-85*F here in Norther Virginia..cruising down the highway at 50-60MPH, according to my scangauge, my intake temps were 100+
I have the DDM works intake with heat shield. 1.4, manual, full ZZP turbo back exhaust, Trifecta tune.

I've been thinking of pulling the inner fender, removing the snorkel and running the air filter in there to really get it out of the engine bay.

Has anyone done this? Thoughts/ideas/suggestions??
 
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Larrymer

New member
1980PontiacWagon said:
Speaking of intake temps. I'm curious as to what everyone is seeing.
For example, today it was 80-85*F here in Norther Virginia..cruising down the highway at 50-60MPH, according to my scangauge, my intake temps were 100+
I have the DDM works intake with heat shield. 1.4, manual, full ZZP turbo back exhaust, Trifecta tune.

I've been thinking of pulling the inner fender, removing the snorkel and running the air filter in there to really get it out of the engine bay.

Has anyone done this? Thoughts/ideas/suggestions??
Click to expand...

My stock air box is always within 5 degrees of ambient. Try and seal the box around the filter better or you could try putting it in the wheel well if you're not worried about water ingestion. Ooooooooooor put the stock intake back on and probably get better performance. :)
 
Last edited:
ss2000slp

ss2000slp

New member
Just out of curiosity, did this start after doing the bypass? All of your lines hooked up/blocked off correctly?
 
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dbarrett231

New member
Ok so I ported the intake manifold and the car doesn't fall on it's face anymore. Raced a miata again won by a lot. Raced and older BMW 3 series and won and also beat a subaru legacy gt spec b that's tuned not by much I think I only got him because I'm a lot lighter. Has anyone else noticed how good these cars when they launch off the line? I went up against a wrx with launch control and got him off the line so easy.


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Larrymer

New member
Guess I'd say you're pretty lucky considering you introduced another possible issue that magically solved your problem...and you haven't died yet from street racing.

You're only beating a WRX off the line (and probably some of those other cars) is because their drivers suck.
 
M

meluskig

New member
Larrymer said:
Guess I'd say you're pretty lucky considering you introduced another possible issue that magically solved your problem...and you haven't died yet from street racing.

You're only beating a WRX off the line (and probably some of those other cars) is because their drivers suck.
Click to expand...

car is only as fast as its driver.
 
Quinton Exler

Quinton Exler

New member
Blaming intake temps upset me... considering you bring air either hot (basically all of our after market intakes) or colder than hot (sab) to a intake tube which is hot if you dont have sab rubber to neglect the heat some... then directly by the manifold and exhaust are which is REALLY hot... then it finally makes it to an intercooler which is likely kind of cool but not very cool... to a scaulding hot turbo which essentially feeds your car some air lol.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
 
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Larrymer

New member
Sure doesn't look like you know how a turbo works, let alone thermodynamics and physics.

Tell us more of these "truths." :popcorn:
 
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