my car falls on its face!
- Thread starter dbarrett231
- Start date
Quinton Exler
New member
Give me a break lol I use a phone to post.
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After paying attention to my torque app... found stock boost on a standard San Diego day, max = 10 psi on econo mode. On performance mode same day I get 22.5 psi (consistantly). During DRY weather, the econo mode boost will run upwards of 14.5-15, and the performance mode unchanged at 22.5 psi max.
Knock retard (KR) will vary depending on throttle %, load, amount of boost, fuel quality and intake temperature. I am looking at putting a spray bar to the stock intercooler to help when I do get heat soak.
Otherwise, my RS is running amazing. with .28 gap on stock plugs.
Knock retard (KR) will vary depending on throttle %, load, amount of boost, fuel quality and intake temperature. I am looking at putting a spray bar to the stock intercooler to help when I do get heat soak.
Otherwise, my RS is running amazing. with .28 gap on stock plugs.
ChrisJ
Active member
Oddly enough, I thought the intercooler's job was to remove heat from the compressed air that is leaving the turbo. And I believe the reason the air is warm from the turbo is because it has been compressed, not really from the turbo being hot.
Your description, doesn't make sense.
And I see Scot already drew you a map.
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Quinton Exler
New member
Phone... and vaping svd dripper @ 15 watts and 24mg... I was a little buzzed. Ended up typing it back arsward.
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ChrisJ
Active member
Is that English?
I spose the end result from my view is I'd never install an intake on my car that pulls hot air from the engine compartment.
Seems kinda, back arsward to take out a factory intake that pulls in outside air, and replace it with one that doesn't.
Quinton Exler
New member
Basically to elimate restriction to flow, not necessarily flow more. Previous comment was vaping talk. Electronic cigarette.
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I'm not particularly concerned with my intake temp if I'm stopped at a light. If I ever do any city driving I'll be sure to share. Regarding oil temp, I didn't think so, but the sensor is there and the reading seems plausible. Don't know what else it would be reporting.
ChrisJ
Active member
What about sitting in traffic on a 100F day with the A/C on for an hour. This happens to be a lot and I'm sure the under hood temp would be more than a few degrees above ambient. Not sure how that effects things idling, but you are driving the A/C + alternator etc.
Here's the logic I'm going to use, and I guarantee no one can argue it. GM spent time engineering a cold air intake, and they spent money making one. If it wasn't necessary, they wouldn't have spent money on it. My 1987 grand prix did not have one but my 1992 pickup did, so something changed to make them start doing it on all vehicles.
Emissions? Fuel mileage?
Here's the logic I'm going to use, and I guarantee no one can argue it. GM spent time engineering a cold air intake, and they spent money making one. If it wasn't necessary, they wouldn't have spent money on it. My 1987 grand prix did not have one but my 1992 pickup did, so something changed to make them start doing it on all vehicles.
Emissions? Fuel mileage?
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Again, I don't sit idling in traffic for an hour at 100 degrees with the a/c running. I'm pretty sure that's hard on your engine any way you look at it. I don't know why OEMs started running fender-well intakes, but I have a suspicion that at least one factor that went into it was noise reduction.
What am I hurting by feeding my engine 15 or 20 degree warmer air at idle?
What am I hurting by feeding my engine 15 or 20 degree warmer air at idle?
ChrisJ
Active member
I don't know, I'm not an engineer that worked on the project but I don't like making assumptions.
I do sit in traffic, very often.
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
I have seen my intake temps go way higher then just 20-30 degrees sitting still.
But when you start moving, it dissipates rather quickly. I don't concern myself with it .
Side note: when I sit and idle I have to run the a/c..... My high temp fan sensor is not functioning.. It over heats with the a/c off
But when you start moving, it dissipates rather quickly. I don't concern myself with it .
Side note: when I sit and idle I have to run the a/c..... My high temp fan sensor is not functioning.. It over heats with the a/c off
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dbarrett231
New member
So what if I ran my intake down to the fog light? Basically just remove my right side fog and tube it down there like some people are doing? Will this make a difference?
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ChrisJ
Active member
In the interest of disclosure, my intake temp did spike at about 32° above ambient at one particularly long traffic light. I'm sure if I had waited longer it would have climbed even higher. Still, whenever the car is actually in motion, it stays within 5-10°.
Since the car is typically moving anytime that the engine is under load/on boost, I'm just not seeing the problem. I am genuinely curious about the detrimental effects of warm-air idling, though, and not simply trying to be argumentative.
Hotter air basically increases propensity to knock. An increase in temperature going into the turbo is going to increase the temperature everywhere, pre/post IC, and what makes it into your engine. Also hotter air is less dense, so less is making it's way to the cylinder, and you're going to make less power. Even less if it starts knocking and retarding ignition timing.
Even the stock air box will heat up enough to see higher IAT's while idling. Just not as much as an exposed filter.
Even the stock air box will heat up enough to see higher IAT's while idling. Just not as much as an exposed filter.
