Natesriv build thread
- Thread starter Natesriv
- Start date
Natesriv
Lead Foot
CAI and shifter bushings are in! Thanks DDM! (What a great company!)
Out with the old! (shield in place)
Does the little line of oil raise an alarm, I say no. But would an inline filter mod be something to consider?
In with the new
I like this view! Like a silver snake delivering power!...and yes I'm having a beer before noon. I'm an adult!
Out with the old! (shield in place)
Does the little line of oil raise an alarm, I say no. But would an inline filter mod be something to consider?
In with the new
I like this view! Like a silver snake delivering power!...and yes I'm having a beer before noon. I'm an adult!
94383Z71
New member
I installed my intake last night...I love it! There is a debate about difference in wheel power, but the intake just really improves the driving experience IMO
looks great!
For the oil line, I think some guys were using an oil catch can to reduce that, as well as other benefits:
http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...ing-oil-catch-can-accessing-your-tophats.html
looks great!
For the oil line, I think some guys were using an oil catch can to reduce that, as well as other benefits:
http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...ing-oil-catch-can-accessing-your-tophats.html
Natesriv
Lead Foot
I'm at work right now, so I can't be sure, but it's very similar to this. I got the muffler and the tip at Advance Auto...
MagnaFlow Stainless Universal Performance Muffler, Oval Case Shape, Inlet Diameter - 2.25 in. 13265: Upgrade with the best Muffler - 2-1/4" ID Inlet at Advance Auto Parts
MagnaFlow Stainless Exhaust Tailpipe Tip, Round Tip, Inlet Inside Diameter - 2.25 in. 35125: Get the best Muffler Tip - 2-1/4"IDInlet at Advance Auto Parts
I'll look tonight for the exact muffler type..
I'm PRETTY sure our OEM pipe diameter is 2.25"
MagnaFlow Stainless Universal Performance Muffler, Oval Case Shape, Inlet Diameter - 2.25 in. 13265: Upgrade with the best Muffler - 2-1/4" ID Inlet at Advance Auto Parts
MagnaFlow Stainless Exhaust Tailpipe Tip, Round Tip, Inlet Inside Diameter - 2.25 in. 35125: Get the best Muffler Tip - 2-1/4"IDInlet at Advance Auto Parts
I'll look tonight for the exact muffler type..
I'm PRETTY sure our OEM pipe diameter is 2.25"
Natesriv
Lead Foot
Thanks!
It's not much different than stock at idle which I like.
I can't really say I've heard it from the outside at full bore since I'm the driver..... sounds good inside though
AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
I can't really say I've heard it from the outside at full bore since I'm the driver..... sounds good inside though
I just read this and it is so true! Only time I've heard my car with the exhaust is when $ub$onic test drove it. Sounds good from the outside. Have someone you trust test drive yours while you listen
AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
Haha some members are going to have to Google videotape. That's old school
RobbyS
New member
I need to add a muffler to my ZZP cat back (it's straight piped right now; extremely loud, but it sounds awesome). You don't happen to know how long the tip and muffler are, do you?
I'm 17...what's this "videotape" thing you speak of?Haha some members are going to have to Google videotape. That's old school
Natesriv
Lead Foot
The tip is 4.5" long
The muffler is 25.13"
The links take you to Advance Auto and right in the middle you'll see a specification tab. That's got all sorts of dimensions you'll want
My setup is custom I suppose in that the muffler is oval, but mounted sideways, so the long part of the oval is vertical.
The muffler is 25.13"
The links take you to Advance Auto and right in the middle you'll see a specification tab. That's got all sorts of dimensions you'll want
My setup is custom I suppose in that the muffler is oval, but mounted sideways, so the long part of the oval is vertical.
RobbyS
New member
The tip is 4.5" long
The muffler is 25.13"
The links take you to Advance Auto and right in the middle you'll see a specification tab. That's got all sorts of dimensions you'll want
My setup is custom I suppose in that the muffler is oval, but mounted sideways, so the long part of the oval is vertical.
Thanks! I couldn't click the link on my phone.
Natesriv
Lead Foot
Boost gauge
With the Xmas money from Mom (thanks Mom!) I went and purchased a 2" Equus boost gauge from O'Reilly Auto..
Thanks to this forum I had plenty of help!
Yikes...it's scary to cut into the dash, but it worked out okay
It sits very tightly in the hole, there's nothing keeping it in there but just the press fit. The gauge came with a cool screw on back part, but I'd have to cut a lot more to get that on there, don't really need it
Followed the advice I saw here an spliced into the vacuum line on top of the engine..very easy..
The light seems too dim and not very well backlit, think I'll get a superbright LED in blue
With the Xmas money from Mom (thanks Mom!) I went and purchased a 2" Equus boost gauge from O'Reilly Auto..
Thanks to this forum I had plenty of help!
Yikes...it's scary to cut into the dash, but it worked out okay
It sits very tightly in the hole, there's nothing keeping it in there but just the press fit. The gauge came with a cool screw on back part, but I'd have to cut a lot more to get that on there, don't really need it
Followed the advice I saw here an spliced into the vacuum line on top of the engine..very easy..
The light seems too dim and not very well backlit, think I'll get a superbright LED in blue
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AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
Crazy brave! Looks good
Natesriv
Lead Foot
Well, I went to have the door ding fixed. He did an 85% good job, considering the other guy didn't want to touch it I was totally pleased. Only $80...
To hide it as much as I can I put some new pinstriping on, it's "fake" carbon fiber... I trying to see how this will integrate with the Honda lip I bought on EBay..it' fake CF too... If that ties in together, I'll remove the plastidip from the rear bump and put a fake CF overlay on that section, to tie it all together.
I think it looks .... good, but I'm not married to it yet.... there's room to do other types of cuts.
What do you think? My camera's making the car look purple'ish..btw it was COLD!!!
To hide it as much as I can I put some new pinstriping on, it's "fake" carbon fiber... I trying to see how this will integrate with the Honda lip I bought on EBay..it' fake CF too... If that ties in together, I'll remove the plastidip from the rear bump and put a fake CF overlay on that section, to tie it all together.
I think it looks .... good, but I'm not married to it yet.... there's room to do other types of cuts.
What do you think? My camera's making the car look purple'ish..btw it was COLD!!!
Natesriv
Lead Foot
Gauges and Rear Disc Brake Conversion
WHEW.... LET ME REPEAT... WHEW...!!!!!!!!!!!!! That took pretty much 15+ hours to do as I was fighting gremlins and unknowns the whole way!!!
I finally put in my gauge pod and gauges... and I put in the rear disc conversion kit I got from a buddy here online... man I'm sore as all hell!!! Lots of laying on my back on concrete..
Okay, gauges..
I'd bought a gauge pod kit from ZZP and two Equus gauges (oil pressure and coolant temp)
The coolant temp needs a 34 mm hose adapter. Make sure you ground it (the adapter has a screw to ground it) or you'll get no reading.
The oil pressure has a pressure sender it came with. I also needed a brass adapter piece which screws into where the OEM sender unit is...then the OEM sender unit screws to that, and the gauge unit to the side. I broke a connection in the gauge sender unit, but it still works...it only needs one wire..the other is for an optional attachment to the oil pressure warning light...
GAUGE TIPS
Finally ready for a tune
The rear brakes.... man...whew!
The ZZP kit is very easy to follow...the instructions are not that great... they need a tech writer! But I muddled through
Here's the back wheel with the kit installed
The other side
All done..
Brake Tips
WHEW.... LET ME REPEAT... WHEW...!!!!!!!!!!!!! That took pretty much 15+ hours to do as I was fighting gremlins and unknowns the whole way!!!
I finally put in my gauge pod and gauges... and I put in the rear disc conversion kit I got from a buddy here online... man I'm sore as all hell!!! Lots of laying on my back on concrete..
Okay, gauges..
I'd bought a gauge pod kit from ZZP and two Equus gauges (oil pressure and coolant temp)
The coolant temp needs a 34 mm hose adapter. Make sure you ground it (the adapter has a screw to ground it) or you'll get no reading.
The oil pressure has a pressure sender it came with. I also needed a brass adapter piece which screws into where the OEM sender unit is...then the OEM sender unit screws to that, and the gauge unit to the side. I broke a connection in the gauge sender unit, but it still works...it only needs one wire..the other is for an optional attachment to the oil pressure warning light...
GAUGE TIPS
- I had a bear of a time getting power to the gauges. It seems the fuse box has several fuse locations which are always hot, or not on at all... I used a fuse bridge...I think that's what it's called.. and power is dependent on the direction you plug the fuse bridge into the fuse box... A circuit tester light saved my booty
- I ran the wires through the rubber firewall grommet on the drivers side, but make sure you avoid the foot pedals and their springs & such...
- Don't over tighten the nut on the oil pressure sending unit... it'll break!...aarh!
Finally ready for a tune
The rear brakes.... man...whew!
The ZZP kit is very easy to follow...the instructions are not that great... they need a tech writer! But I muddled through
Here's the back wheel with the kit installed
The other side
All done..
Brake Tips
- The ZZP kit is pretty straight forward, but the pics in the instructions are vague and fuzzy on some. This is a job for a tech writer
- The hardest part for me was getting the OEM E-Brake cable to come out of the holder which connects the cable on the car, to the cable on the old drum brake... that was hard... I can't really descibe the way I did it..but it was a pain
- The ZZP kit came with everything I needed, no issues
- I also orderd a front set of slotted/vented rotors for the front. they came painted in silver paint all over... make sure you TOTALLY REMOVE THAT PAINT from the surface where the pad touches the rotor or you'll have problems. I thought I'd sanded it enough.. I hadn't. Use brake parts cleaner to get it off!!!!
- At least in my case, the slots/and holes of the rotor should all lean to the left as you look at the rotor on the car. NOT the other way (I learned that the hard way with the front rotors)
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