laborsmith
New member
What rear anti roll bar?
Laborsmith
Laborsmith
Sparco Assetto Gara
- Thread starter wingman
- Start date
wingman
Active member
I felt the same when I first drove it, then the new wheels made it that much better. I feel more body roll now, maybe because I push it harder into corners now. If only the damn Eibachs would ever make it to production!! Oh, and it is possible, you just have to force it. I ripped the e-brake a few times (first time a dud getting the feel for it), and was able to get a very nice controlled slide.
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laborsmith
New member
Wingman, not that I noticed while we had the car up trying to figure if I could install an electric controlled cut out. But then, my attention was focused on that and not on whether there was a sway bar or its equivalent.
The Sonic does track well,even before I changed tires. But when I most often notice the softness is when braking - its related to my driving pattern and I go through brakes like water through a sieve.
Laborsmith
The Sonic does track well,even before I changed tires. But when I most often notice the softness is when braking - its related to my driving pattern and I go through brakes like water through a sieve.
Laborsmith
SteveSonic
New member
I looked into the description of the rear suspension. Edmonds Insideline called it: Semi-independent twist beam-axle, coil springs, twin-tube dampers, integrated stabilizer bar. A diagram was provided in this thread. Also known as a torsion beam axle, it offers an anti-roll bar function as the axle twists under cornering loads.
Unfortunately the rear 'stabilizer bar' is not adjustable. So we have only the springs and shocks left as variables to tune the car's handling. Springs rates control everything when we're under steady/near steady state cornering loads (front / rear proportion, that is), in combination with anti-roll bars. Shock rates are chosen to control the compression and decompression rates of the springs during transition loads, and the 'natural frequency' of the springs during no load. Under steady state cornering, the shocks have little influence, but they keep the car manageable as we transition.
I think I'm rambling, again.
Unfortunately the rear 'stabilizer bar' is not adjustable. So we have only the springs and shocks left as variables to tune the car's handling. Springs rates control everything when we're under steady/near steady state cornering loads (front / rear proportion, that is), in combination with anti-roll bars. Shock rates are chosen to control the compression and decompression rates of the springs during transition loads, and the 'natural frequency' of the springs during no load. Under steady state cornering, the shocks have little influence, but they keep the car manageable as we transition.
I think I'm rambling, again.
wingman
Active member
Not rambling, intuitive. I started to think along the same lines as your research of our torsion beam set-up. Thanks for doing some research on the issue.
SteveSonic
New member
We have several knowledgable automotive enthusiasts on this forum. I want to apologize ahead of time for insulting anyone's intelligence because I haven't searched the forum/read all the threads. I have a tendency to blurt out what I have learned and experienced modifying several cars' audio systems, powertrains, and suspension systems. I've read, engineered, constructed, and raced extensively on a small FWD chassis, the SAAB Sonett III, on the East Coast vintage/historic racing circuit. I've raced with and finished ahead of active Pro SCCA drivers and retired SCCA racers even though their cars are professional developed and maintained, and are valued $$$ignificantly higher than mine. And I've never had the money to race on a set of new tires; I've only ever bought used tires. With that said, I hope I have some credibility when I talk about high performance FWD chassis development.
laborsmith
New member
SteveSonic, I have owned two Sonett IIIs, and the only window sticker I saved before the 2000s is the 1974, on which I put performance exhaust after pancaking the original trying to mimic a 4WD Jeep. To this day they are my favorites, but I am not as limber as I once was and can no longer get in or out of one w/o pulling a muscle.
I got mt last one in 2003 from Bob Smith. I mentioned that because you indicated you are on the East Coast. The first one was totaled in 1980 when I was rear ended while stopped at a traffic light.
Welcome to the Forum. I don't know about others but I appreciate any technical info and insights you are willing to share.
Laborsmith
I got mt last one in 2003 from Bob Smith. I mentioned that because you indicated you are on the East Coast. The first one was totaled in 1980 when I was rear ended while stopped at a traffic light.
Welcome to the Forum. I don't know about others but I appreciate any technical info and insights you are willing to share.
Laborsmith
SteveSonic
New member
I thought I had read in another thread that you were a Sonett owner. Thanks for the vote of confidence; sometimes I fear that I come across as an arrogant know-it-all and pi^^ people off. Like anything else posted just take it with a grain of salt.
So I'll never ask you to try and sit in my racing Sonett with a full cage. The driver must fall into it butt first, then lift legs in with hands. The steering wheel is not removal either! Getting out calls for feet out first, then a well-timed push off of the racing seat and a controlled fall out.
A well prepared FWD racer is a blast to drive fast. Push on turn-in must be avoided like on any car (even RWD) by carefully timing pre-turn brake release/touch, vehicle speed, and turn-in rate to match the corner. The speed that remains going in is then used for trail braking and vehicle rotation before station-keeping throttle is applied. My LSD allows me to put the power down earlier for better exit speed than the RWD cars but I have to be holding onto the wheel really, really firmly because of the tremendous torque steer. The RWD drivers deal with NO torque steer; instead, they have rear-end control problems when they try to power out.
sonicR
New member
I have 225 40 18. It rides wonderful corners perfect. Gas mileage affected slightly. Anybody tryind to ride on 18's would be fine. Im waiting for.the lowering kits. Anything!!!!! Oh yah all you professionals that have to boast about the expensive cars you road in the pass, you have a sonic now! Aren't we suppose to help each other? Get your pan.... Out the knots
SteveSonic
New member
wingman
Active member
This makes no sense at all. Re-read the posts and maybe you'll understand them better.
How wide of a rim are you using and what is the offset? If you went up one tire size, like a 235/40/18, would it rub the strut in the front or the plastic piece in the rear? Thanks
SherbetFrenzy!
Site Supporter
laborsmith
New member
esymr2, 225 with a 40 offset comes very close, especially on the rear. To go 235 I am sure you would need to do something about the offset. I have 7.5 inch rims, also. I did not mean to ignore your question, for some reason I thought it had been answered.
I suggest that if your heart is set on 235 you get your set at a local tire dealer where you can test and fall back to less width if there is rubbing.
Laborsmith
I suggest that if your heart is set on 235 you get your set at a local tire dealer where you can test and fall back to less width if there is rubbing.
Laborsmith
I already have 225/40/18's mounted on 7.5 rims with an offset of 38. Now that I have them already, it looks like I could have gone with an 8 inch wide rim with an offset of 40 to 35. Now that I have the 7.5 wide rims I may or may not be able to put on 235/40/18 next time around. It depends on the tire shop that I go to.
