Turbo gone again..

[Toadz]

I plan on calling a few other dealerships in the area this week to try and get this resolved. Unfortunately it doesn't look like there are any options in the aftermarket community for a bolt-on replacement turbo. All I see are kits that use the factory turbo which I obviously want to avoid.

 

[JayL]

UPDATE: sorry for not posting sooner. After finally having some time to take my car apart. There was never anything really wrong with my turbo other than the clip that holds the rod fell off. So apparently my local dealship never took the heatsheild off the turbo. Or they did and wanted to pull a fast one on me.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

I had my turbo go the other week, and I was at 50k miles... I posted pics of the bypass valve and housing and the housing is cracked all the way around... and mines a 2014 auto.

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Could this be my issue? P0300 and oil coming out somewhere around the turbo.

 

[MaD]

Well... that code is a misfire, but oil around the turbo could also be valve cover leaking... any pics?

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[mja]

Can check the turbo housing near the wastegate for cracks by pulling O2 sensor and putting a borescope camera with a light in there. Borescopes can be had for around 15-40$ now on amazon/ebay. Easier than pulling the cat/downpipe.

 

[mja]

I plan on calling a few other dealerships in the area this week to try and get this resolved. Unfortunately it doesn't look like there are any options in the aftermarket community for a bolt-on replacement turbo. All I see are kits that use the factory turbo which I obviously want to avoid.

You might want to contact Walker Morgan at MPFab if you're looking for a dedicated exhaust manifold. He was working on a prototype kit and has made a few manifolds for people.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Well... that code is a misfire, but oil around the turbo could also be valve cover leaking... any pics?

Pics after a drive. Getting ready to strap my phone to the coolant resevoir and take a video. Hope I can see where it sprays.

You might want to contact Walker Morgan at MPFab if you're looking for a dedicated exhaust manifold. He was working on a prototype kit and has made a few manifolds for people.

Ok thanks. Love his work.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

So far I've replaced the valve cover, plugs and wires. Water inlet tube leaking but not the cause so I bought the part but want to figure this issue out first.

 

[MaD]

That looks bad, and very fresh... might have someone sit inside it in reverse and hold the brakes and gas and see if you have a broken oil line... youll need a bright light too.

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[mja]

Have you pulled the BPV solenoid lines to check for oil and checked function of the PCV at the turbo inlet?

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Have you pulled the BPV solenoid lines to check for oil and checked function of the PCV at the turbo inlet?

I don't how or where but I'll search by your description. Definitely have some kind of oil line leaking. You can hear it spray when you floor it. I haven't taken off the heat shield but it doesn't look like the oil return line. Dry there.

It's all by the inlet tube or one of those little lines. The left circle looks dry.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

BPV solenoid. I did just replace the cap I had on there when I replaced the valve cover.

 

[whitesmoke]

Is it smoking bad just sitting there at idle, or does it blow huge clouds of blue smoke after wot and you lift off gas? I cant believe you are still chasing this

 

[Blue Moon Sonic]

Wouldn't be a bad idea to check the oil cooler as well. They're known to go bad with age. Also make sure to check the intake manifold for the orange check valve. You may need an alcohol soaked Q-tip to clean the inside of the port to find it.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Is it smoking bad just sitting there at idle, or does it blow huge clouds of blue smoke after wot and you lift off gas? I cant believe you are still chasing this

Yes exactly. Idles rough but huge clouds after WOT. First turbo and not mechanical enough to diagnose by the sypmtons. But I can turn a wrench! If I know which one..

I'll check the intake for the orange nipple tonight as well.

 

[whitesmoke]

Ok listen, if the turbo seals are bad it will constanly smoke. If the smoke subsides at idle, and you can drive the car around normally without any smoke and when you build high boost and then let off and it smokes its the pcv diaphram in the INTAKE MANIFOLD. has nothing to do with the valve cover. There are 2 things that will cause high crankcase pressure, 1 like i said a boost leak of the pcv in the manifold, 2 a broken compression ring. Do a compression test, you should have between 180 and 205 psi cranking. If all cylinders are in that range its the pcv in the manifold. As far as the miss at idle, you have a bad plug, or wire, or coil. If it really sucked in a lot of oil it may have fouled the new plugs you put in. It takes a while for the oil to stop. And gap them at no more than .022

 

[mja]

Blue RS, hopefully this car is parked and not being driven. There are only so many places oil can be leaking from in that area. Your pic is hard to see but it looks like oil supply. I have to agree with Whitesmoke here, if you haven't done the srsly basic check the orange pcv then not sure how suggestions can help here. It might be better to take this to a shop.

...btw there are 2 orange poppets in the intake manifold that can cause a boost leak. You cant see the BPV diaphragm poppet that controls the BPV solenoid vacuum diaphragm unless using a borescope, so checking BPV solenoid lines is the next step to see if you have boost or oil coming through there. Bypassing the bypass valve solenoid could help but wont fix the fact that theres a broken poppet that cant be seen in the intake.