Clutch pedal clicking

[Chevrolet Customer Care]

Please keep us updated with any concerns or questions you have regarding your Sonics. Let us know if you take them to the dealerships. I hope everyone is having a good week despite any car concerns. Regards.

Matt,

GM Customer Service (Assisting Vanessa)

 

[wr_guy]

I notice there is a dab of silicone grease on the clutch pedal return spring...maybe the spring is snapping>

I also notice that when it is raining and damp out the click goes away.

 

[ChrisJ]

So,

Still no actual solid known cure for this? BTW our Cruze is doing it also.

 

[nessquid89]

I took my sonic in yesterday for the same clicking noise and the dealership ended breaking my transmission internally so they gave me a rental an said they don't know how Lon it with take I'm so aggravated

 

[oldertech]

I took my sonic in yesterday for the same clicking noise and the dealership ended breaking my transmission internally so they gave me a rental an said they don't know how Lon it with take I'm so aggravated

They'll fix it!

 

[Karl]

I have got the same clicking noise.
I think it may be caused by the metalpiece bolted with plastic rivets to the plastic pedal.
When pressing the pedal down I can see the plastic rivets moving exactly at the same time as I hear that click. When releasing the pedal I can hear a similar sound when the rivets falls into place.
Maybe I'm wrong but I think that click sound is caused by a gap between metal and plastic.

 

[Chrish051873]

I have had my entire pedal assembly changed out by the dealer.

Took them 2 days.

Was good for a few weeks, but it came back.

It is something we will have to live with I'm afraid

Chris

 

[Sergeant Turbo Sonic]

hey everyone! so i have 4 manual sonics and they all start to do this around 20,000 miles for me, clicking and geting loose from side to side and in fact it is something we all have to deal with thats if your warranty is out. what the problem is, is the disign its faulty the clutch pedal side of the assembly has the master cylinder in it and its made of plastic soo..... you can see where this is going. i actually have to replace mine in my 2012 this weekend ill take pics to show the process. its quite easy and its cheaper to order the part online.

 

[oldertech]

hey everyone! so i have 4 manual sonics and they all start to do this around 20,000 miles for me, clicking and geting loose from side to side and in fact it is something we all have to deal with thats if your warranty is out. what the problem is, is the disign its faulty the clutch pedal side of the assembly has the master cylinder in it and its made of plastic soo..... you can see where this is going. i actually have to replace mine in my 2012 this weekend ill take pics to show the process. its quite easy and its cheaper to order the part online.

Unless you've gone over 36k, aren't all your Sonics still under warranty?

 

[Sergeant Turbo Sonic]

Unless you've gone over 36k, aren't all your Sonics still under warranty?

no the 2012's have, 73,000ish and the other 51,000ish

 

[ChrisJ]

no the 2012's have, 73,000ish and the other 51,000ish

Wow.

What problems have you had with them besides the clutch pedal?

Seems strange, my 92 chevy c2500hd had a plastic master cylinder for the clutch and that didn't get changed until 190K miles or so and it was for no reason in the end. Of course I think the pedal assembly was all metal.

 

[Sergeant Turbo Sonic]

Wow.

What problems have you had with them besides the clutch pedal?

Seems strange, my 92 chevy c2500hd had a plastic master cylinder for the clutch and that didn't get changed until 190K miles or so and it was for no reason in the end. Of course I think the pedal assembly was all metal.

well..... most to all of the problems on this site! i have a DIY Auto shop here so its pretty cheap to work on your car here and i work for a parts store so i can get parts cheap so doing the work my self isn't that bad. plus high school auto tech. under my belt doesn't hurt. the pedal assy. is just a bad design. end of story life span 20,000-80,000 miles

 

[Sergeant Turbo Sonic]

well..... most to all of the problems on this site! i have a DIY Auto shop here so its pretty cheap to work on your car here and i work for a parts store so i can get parts cheap so doing the work my self isn't that bad. plus high school auto tech. under my belt doesn't hurt. the pedal assy. is just a bad design. end of story life span 20,000-80,000 miles

P.S. on my first sonic the 73,00ish mile it got so bad it wouldn't engage the clutch

 

[Karl]

Sergeant Turbo Sonic.

Looking forward to take part of the DIY pics!!!

 

[oldertech]

I'm gonna guess that someone, sometime will come up with an aftermarket pedal assembly made of metal and has nice roller bearings. Crumple zone considerations or not!

 

[BriG21]

My clutch pedal is also making this clicking sound. Is the Silicone grease the best fix to date? Are dealerships still not doing anything about the issue? I have about 2K miles.

 

[SiyQ]

I just started experiencing the click at 2,000 miles. It clicks when I press, and release it.

 

[Chrish051873]

I have had my pedal assembly changed once about 15,000 miles ago. The clicking went away for about 1,000 miles.
Now I just use the ignore button

 

[Sergeant Turbo Sonic]

Ok, this is the long awaited how-to for doing the pedal assembly.

I thought it would be easy but it's not. It took me 1 and a 1/2 days to do it and 2 people also a fully loaded DIY auto shop. Before I get into how to do it, let me explain how it's put together at the factory. When they have the dash outside of the car on the robotic arm, they put the pedal assembly on the back of the dash and hang it by two plastic hooks that are molded into the pedal assembly (which i'll illustrate in a picture) then they bolt in two bolts by those hooks to an arm on the back of the dash. Then there's an arm that comes down form the steering column that's mounted to the pedal assembly then with the pedal assembly attached to the dash, they insert the dash into the vehicle. then bolt all the pedal assembly bolts to the firewall. so as you can see, as i explain, you have to take your dash out.

1. Remove all plastic covers from dash and center console. (Also incl. radio, a/c controls, cubby holes, airbags, steering column, and glove box.) Remove the 2 bolts at the top of the pedal assembly that mount to the dash frame next to the hooks.

2. There should be 9-10 anchor bolts that bolt the steel frame of the dash to the vehicle. Also remove brake booster bolts and pedal assembly bolts, located under the hood on the firewall around the brake booster. There is also one bolt under the cowl/windshield wipers, on the firewall there next to the windshield wiper motor. disconnect clutch fluid lines from assembly.

3. At this point, your dash and pedal assembly. should be loose. You should be able to, with 2 people, one in each seat lift up and out on the frame of the dash. Only pull it an 1/2 inch to 1 inch out. Just enough to free the permanently mounted bolts in the pedal assembly from the firewall once the bolts are free from the firewall. Remove bolt behind pedal assembly that mounts to the lower steering column bracket. also disconnect any sensor wires to pedal assembly. Now the pedal assembly should be free and you can push up and towards the firewall on the pedal assembly to free the hooks off of the top of the bracket.

4. Remove old pedal assembly. Install new pedal assembly. Reverse Process.


Now I'm only informing you how I installed my new pedal assembly. If, for some reason, it doesn't work for you and your vehicle becomes damaged, I accept no liability. Follow these instructions at your own risk.


I do have more pic's of the job but not a lot i will upload soon

 

[Chrish051873]

Took the dealer 2 days to replace my pedal assembly. And they had problems with the computer recognizing the brake light switch.

Props to you my friend for doing this yourself.
Not something I would tackle

Chris