brake rotors
- Thread starter cndctrdj
- Start date
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
I have r1 concepts rotors on my sonic, have also used there products in the past.
I would check them out. They are great quality. But not the cheapest option.
ChrisJ
Active member
What concerns me now is, if rotors don't usually warp and it's caused by not getting things hot enough, wouldn't drilled slotted rotors make the issue worse?
Maybe I need the cheap rotors.
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
What concerns me now is, if rotors don't usually warp and it's caused by not getting things hot enough, wouldn't drilled slotted rotors make the issue worse?
Maybe I need the cheap rotors.
I'm pretty sure they offer a "blank" rotor too.
In either case, I know your going to end up with the cheap ones.
ChrisJ
Active member
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
From your post about rock autos kit.
$150 for everything is a good price.
You will have more then that in r1 rotors.
Then tack on the pads after that.
ChrisJ
Active member
Ah so you're saying the ones @ rockauto for $150 are "cheap", not the $20-30 each ones at rockauto. Those are really really cheap.
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
I'm saying they are half the price of what I have in my front brakes.
They are cheaper not the cheapest...
Last edited:
Just a follow-up. The Zzp rotors have taken a beating and no problems yet. The pads I have grab a lot harder initially than the stock ones. Also when things heat up they seem to work a lot better. No problems at the track either.
Only down side is that they create so much dust
Only down side is that they create so much dust
ChrisJ
Active member
Stew
Sedans Rule!
Like you mentioned, I am also super easy on my brakes and they started shimmying around 25k miles. I would do things like slowly creep forward after stopping so the pads wouldn't make as much of a hot spot on the rotors, etc but it didn't matter. Kinda disappointing.
It would be frustrating for me to get new pads and rotors since everything still looks new, you almost can't even tell the pads have wear yet, but if I have the rotors turned they'll warp even faster next time because there's less mass to absorb heat then before.
Part of me wants to say screw it and get the Brembo kit and be done with it for the life of car but man, they are not inexpensive.
Yes the dust is super black.
ChrisJ
Active member
Yes,
but as mentioned previously throughout the thread, it appears it's not the rotors warping but problems with pad material sticking to the rotor. Seemed to be related to the pads running too cool or something?
KartRacer
Member
Been reading through this thread. I have not had any rotor problems, and yes they would be covered on warranty. Usually rotor brake pulsing is because the rotors have soft spots and wear unevenly. Under normal driving conditions you would be hard pressed to over heat the rotors and I do not buy build up from pads. Historically most manufactures have had rotor issues here and there. If your under 36,000 take it in to your dealer.
ChrisJ
Active member
Personally,
I'm at 40,000 now and its so little I highly doubt the dealer would do anything about it.
I don't buy the part about soft spots in rotors.
KartRacer
Member
I stand corrected! 40 yrs of misinformation.
Corrected by this link.
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
And I respectfully acknowledge others input of this information!
Corrected by this link.
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
And I respectfully acknowledge others input of this information!
sonicfishRS
New member
no the dealer will not do anything about it. its a wear item they are not covered and i call bull **** on the soft spots i have been working on cars my whole life and thats not what make brakes pulsate
RMinNJ
Active member
I'm tacking myself onto this old thread.
I had replaced the original rotors and pads from pulsating...they were definitely warped but the OEM pads did not look worn. Guessing I did them at 45k? 50k miles. I used Wagner semi-Ceramic pads? and I guess Advance Auto rotors. I assumed the warping was from a lot of dealer tire rotations and torquing.
Now I'm at 75k and I can feel pulsating.. like the rotors are warped again. I had not had a lot of tire rotations and I did most wheel changes myself with a torque wrench.
Is this a case of the rotors just finally rusted to the hub and taking them off and on will fix it? I can see lots of meat on the outer pad anyway.. this was the case the first time also...the pads were fine.. the rotors not grooved... now, again, the rotors feel warped..the pads look fine.
If I have to take the rotors off to even check them I may as well just do the pads and rotors again. I liked the Wagner pads for wear and no dust and they stop great ... but
what is a good rotor quality rotor that wont warp? I'm stumped why its happening a second time.. I do nothing but normal driving. I assume its because I used cheapo rotors figuring they would be better than OEM.
I had replaced the original rotors and pads from pulsating...they were definitely warped but the OEM pads did not look worn. Guessing I did them at 45k? 50k miles. I used Wagner semi-Ceramic pads? and I guess Advance Auto rotors. I assumed the warping was from a lot of dealer tire rotations and torquing.
Now I'm at 75k and I can feel pulsating.. like the rotors are warped again. I had not had a lot of tire rotations and I did most wheel changes myself with a torque wrench.
Is this a case of the rotors just finally rusted to the hub and taking them off and on will fix it? I can see lots of meat on the outer pad anyway.. this was the case the first time also...the pads were fine.. the rotors not grooved... now, again, the rotors feel warped..the pads look fine.
If I have to take the rotors off to even check them I may as well just do the pads and rotors again. I liked the Wagner pads for wear and no dust and they stop great ... but
what is a good rotor quality rotor that wont warp? I'm stumped why its happening a second time.. I do nothing but normal driving. I assume its because I used cheapo rotors figuring they would be better than OEM.
