Rear Speakers
- Thread starter AxelRipper
- Start date
sLivEr.skilled
New member
someone tried these harnesses:
2010-11 Chevrolet Camaro Reverse Harness
Amazon.com: PAC AA-GM44 Amplifier Integration Interface for Select 2010 and Up GM Vehicles: Automotive
???
in the pictures they seem to fit ..
2010-11 Chevrolet Camaro Reverse Harness
Amazon.com: PAC AA-GM44 Amplifier Integration Interface for Select 2010 and Up GM Vehicles: Automotive
???
in the pictures they seem to fit ..
Danny5
Its over 39000!
Remember these?
I took a huge plunge this weekend and installed this:
Amazon Prime had it to me in one day for ~$85. It is rated around 220watts a channel, and does a decent job at pushing those old Fosgate components.
Ok, no DIY. Installing amplifiers is covered a bazillion times on the net. I did a normal high-level install, tapping into the rear speaker lines. Here are the steps I used (install time 4-6 hours)
I did get some whine from the car due to using high inputs. I did not spend any time verifing existance of low inputs. By tuning the gain down to 50%, the whine is not noticeable.
I first tried to use my rear speakers as bass only with a 150hz crossover. In the end, more volume and better sound was achieved by setting the amp to full pass.
Finally, I installed the amplifier in the center stack on top the shifter cables. It does not impact shifting at all, and the amp and wiring just fit. I secured it to the car with zip ties to the center stack support. Yes, its slightly ghetto, and if you want to find a better mounting area, then go for it!
This amp is capable of running tri-mode, so I am going to look for an unpowered sub to mount in the hatch area. For now, sound VASTLY improved. :banana:
I took a huge plunge this weekend and installed this:
Amazon Prime had it to me in one day for ~$85. It is rated around 220watts a channel, and does a decent job at pushing those old Fosgate components.
Ok, no DIY. Installing amplifiers is covered a bazillion times on the net. I did a normal high-level install, tapping into the rear speaker lines. Here are the steps I used (install time 4-6 hours)
- Remove rear door panels
- Remove old rear speakers
- Install spacers
- Install new speakers into existing wiring (note that I didn't cut the wiring here, so this part is reversible)
- remove center console
- remove center stack
- remove radio
- cut speaker wires. Green/Green black (-) for left side and white/blue black (-) for right side.
- extend 4 sets of speaker wires to amp which will be installed at the base of the center stack, 2 input 2 output
- tap auxillary power for remote lead
- ground black wire to center console metal support
- feed power wire through firewall, just left of brake booster
- Plug everything in, fiddle with gains, crossover, etc
- Tuck everything in and reassemble car
I did get some whine from the car due to using high inputs. I did not spend any time verifing existance of low inputs. By tuning the gain down to 50%, the whine is not noticeable.
I first tried to use my rear speakers as bass only with a 150hz crossover. In the end, more volume and better sound was achieved by setting the amp to full pass.
Finally, I installed the amplifier in the center stack on top the shifter cables. It does not impact shifting at all, and the amp and wiring just fit. I secured it to the car with zip ties to the center stack support. Yes, its slightly ghetto, and if you want to find a better mounting area, then go for it!
This amp is capable of running tri-mode, so I am going to look for an unpowered sub to mount in the hatch area. For now, sound VASTLY improved. :banana:
Danny5
Its over 39000!
In here. The white and black cables are the shifter cables, and they are heavy duty. They don't move under shifting at all, so I was ok with putting the amp on top of them.
Danny5
Its over 39000!
Never was satisfied with the Fosgates, so I installed these in the stock rear speaker location:
http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-MAXP64-6-5-Inch-Small-Enclosure-Subwoofer/dp/B001L5FQ0M/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Not even a tight fit. Gives me enough bass to know I am alive too. :banana:
I put in some fiberglass insulation behind the speakers to help tame rattles, but would like to enclose the speaker area. Just have to figure out how to do that...
http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-MAXP64-6-5-Inch-Small-Enclosure-Subwoofer/dp/B001L5FQ0M/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Not even a tight fit. Gives me enough bass to know I am alive too. :banana:
I put in some fiberglass insulation behind the speakers to help tame rattles, but would like to enclose the speaker area. Just have to figure out how to do that...
macncheese
New member
I'm considering something similar and was thinking about these, maybe stiffened with fiberglass? Not sure if that's enough volume for what you're running but maybe!?
stanislav13rus
New member
speaker
It turned out or anything complicated: the card door on the two bolts holding a 7mm nut and the clips (hard way).
To release the start of decorative fillers and unscrew bolts: one for the opening of a door handle and the second for closing the door handle
Then he gently pulls the card from the bottom of the door until all the clips did not pop up. Then you need to pull up the map, because at the top, where the sealing glass, it is mounted on the metal door. Next you need to disconnect the electric window control pad buttons and pull the handle on the door opening.
Remove the rubber boot that covers the wires going to the door, and remove the shackles of wires. The photo identified two extreme wires, just a sound.
How to connect to the wire - it is yours.
Next slips through the rubber boot acoustic wire, for example, with a stiff wire.
Well, now it remains only to fix the speaker himself, and to connect it. Since the there is no mounting holes - you need to either self-tapping picking or drill. Also, hole-in speaker is not the correct form, under the standard special fasteners. To close this hole, I stuck around splena pieces. On top of rigidly reinforced plywood ring and the ring has already secured the speaker.
Then all assemble in reverse order, going all easy. Or what kind of broke until analyzed, so that all okay.
It turned out or anything complicated: the card door on the two bolts holding a 7mm nut and the clips (hard way).
To release the start of decorative fillers and unscrew bolts: one for the opening of a door handle and the second for closing the door handle
Then he gently pulls the card from the bottom of the door until all the clips did not pop up. Then you need to pull up the map, because at the top, where the sealing glass, it is mounted on the metal door. Next you need to disconnect the electric window control pad buttons and pull the handle on the door opening.
Remove the rubber boot that covers the wires going to the door, and remove the shackles of wires. The photo identified two extreme wires, just a sound.
How to connect to the wire - it is yours.
Next slips through the rubber boot acoustic wire, for example, with a stiff wire.
Well, now it remains only to fix the speaker himself, and to connect it. Since the there is no mounting holes - you need to either self-tapping picking or drill. Also, hole-in speaker is not the correct form, under the standard special fasteners. To close this hole, I stuck around splena pieces. On top of rigidly reinforced plywood ring and the ring has already secured the speaker.
Then all assemble in reverse order, going all easy. Or what kind of broke until analyzed, so that all okay.
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stanislav13rus
New member
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2012LTZ
New member
Stock Speakers
I just installed a r/f amp that has to have 4ohm speakers and didn't find this info on the board or in the thread so here's what I found in my car:
The stock speakers in my 2012 ltz hatch are (6.5") 4ohm, 20 watts max.
4 ohms - check
20 watts? - not gonna work (for long)
Thanks for the pics and procedures.
[gets back to work]
I just installed a r/f amp that has to have 4ohm speakers and didn't find this info on the board or in the thread so here's what I found in my car:
The stock speakers in my 2012 ltz hatch are (6.5") 4ohm, 20 watts max.
4 ohms - check
20 watts? - not gonna work (for long)
Thanks for the pics and procedures.
[gets back to work]
Yup both speakers are the same front and back, I postes it done were but I don't even know which thread now lol
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
soniccaniac
New member
I have the LT model and i have 6 speakers. I can fade to the back. I'm looking for the best factory settings i can adjust to get the best quality out of my stock audio system. Please help.
SylviaGirl
New member
Here's a good one
A few weeks ago, I played with the audio settings until I was satisfied. I have a good memory and the rear speakers were nearly as loud as the fronts. I faded to R2. Today, the sound seemed strange. I checked the settings and somehow they were all set to zero, except the fader. Now, as others have stated, the rear speakers are barely the level they were. What gives, Chevy Customer Person? Thank you.
A few weeks ago, I played with the audio settings until I was satisfied. I have a good memory and the rear speakers were nearly as loud as the fronts. I faded to R2. Today, the sound seemed strange. I checked the settings and somehow they were all set to zero, except the fader. Now, as others have stated, the rear speakers are barely the level they were. What gives, Chevy Customer Person? Thank you.
gillamonstar
Member
I had the same "problem" until I read on here that each audio 'input' has it's own settings... So the FM, AM, BT, XM, CD all have their own independent audio settings. I couldn't understand why the BT sounded like crap while the XM sounded less like crap...
SylviaGirl
New member
Yes, I noticed that, thank you. However, try setting the fader to say, R2. Next, notice that all settings on each input will remain as adjusted, except the fader. In other words, if I adjust the fader to R5 on FM, it becomes R5 on each input. Try it out - please let me know. Also, somewhere in the Infotainment area in the owner's manual (I forgot exactly where), there is apparently something that makes only the 4 front speakers louder....it's either On-Star, Bluetooth or ......this is really weird. BTW, I have a sedan LS. I saw a factory reset for 'vehicle settings'. Is there a factory reset for the radio? Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
SylviaGirl
New member
OnStar may be the culprit
I forgot to mention that in between the rears being loud and the mysterious reset, one day my radio came blasting on with a 'message' from OnStar, clearly concentrated in the front speakers. Can OnStar mess with things in our Sonics? Oh, I reset Vehicle Settings to factory defaults which also reset some radio settings (bass, treble, mid, fader).....but the rears are still low. This is ridiculous. I tested a bunch of Sonics before I got mine. ALL of them had no rear speaker problem. Again, I think it's OnStar and the sudden LOUD front speakers, coupled with that section in the owner's manual about the fronts getting louder for some reason.....I feel this is a good theory....can anyone else get on board with me here? Thank you so much.
I forgot to mention that in between the rears being loud and the mysterious reset, one day my radio came blasting on with a 'message' from OnStar, clearly concentrated in the front speakers. Can OnStar mess with things in our Sonics? Oh, I reset Vehicle Settings to factory defaults which also reset some radio settings (bass, treble, mid, fader).....but the rears are still low. This is ridiculous. I tested a bunch of Sonics before I got mine. ALL of them had no rear speaker problem. Again, I think it's OnStar and the sudden LOUD front speakers, coupled with that section in the owner's manual about the fronts getting louder for some reason.....I feel this is a good theory....can anyone else get on board with me here? Thank you so much.
laborsmith
New member
This reply is not to the way the speakers work or do not work but is to state that what happened to you as regards OnStar interrupting is standard and will happen to every OnStar equipped Chevy several weeks after activation and a few weeks before expiration.
The voice is clear and not subject to being unheard, so to that extent OnStar can mess with your settings, but, it will only happen once. This interruption is one of the benefits of driving an OnStar equipped vehicle and could be one reason why I am such a dedicated fan of OnStar.
Laborsmith
The voice is clear and not subject to being unheard, so to that extent OnStar can mess with your settings, but, it will only happen once. This interruption is one of the benefits of driving an OnStar equipped vehicle and could be one reason why I am such a dedicated fan of OnStar.
Laborsmith
